Dining room table project - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 36 Old 02-20-2011, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Dining room table project

Here's a table I built for a lady in NYC.

The criteria: it has to look like the table in the catalog, but be made with heavy hardwood (no "cheap pine" or veneers). The wood can't be too pricey, must have some character. Red oak was the choice. The legs need to be solid, the top can't look flimsy. It needs to be easily knocked down, as she moves often. And, it needs to look rustic, yet refined. Then deliver it to Manhattan.

Other than that, I had free reign on the design.

It's heavy, but a fun project :^)
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post #2 of 36 Old 02-20-2011, 07:42 AM
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Nice table and well done. Sure doesn't look "flimsy". I like the pegged tenons.








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post #3 of 36 Old 02-20-2011, 04:56 PM
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Nice job - I think you nailed it on the specs.
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post #4 of 36 Old 02-20-2011, 05:35 PM
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Nothing like freedom of design from a client! Great job meeting all the specs and a very nice table. One comment. It looks like you have screws in runner of sorts that go with the grain along the side aprons. Are they free to move? If they are not free to move you might have problems with wood movement perpendicular to the grain as there will be restrained expansion and contraction with seasonal humidity changes.
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post #5 of 36 Old 02-20-2011, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TGRANT
Nothing like freedom of design from a client! Great job meeting all the specs and a very nice table. One comment. It looks like you have screws in runner of sorts that go with the grain along the side aprons. Are they free to move? If they are not free to move you might have problems with wood movement perpendicular to the grain as there will be restrained expansion and contraction with seasonal humidity changes.
The aprons that run parallel with the grain are screwed tightly. The aprons and cleats that run perpendicular to the grain are screwed solidly in the center, then the outboard screws are snug in slotted holes.
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post #6 of 36 Old 02-20-2011, 07:31 PM
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Thanks - I was curious. So I it sounds like the short and long aprons are not connected to each other? That’s a clever solution to the wood movement problem. Again, very nice work.
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post #7 of 36 Old 02-20-2011, 07:42 PM
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Beautiful table. Well done.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #8 of 36 Old 02-20-2011, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all for the nice comments.

Trying to work within a customers requests is always challenging. The X legs pose their own mounting issues. The client wanted a 40x88.5"x1" thick solid wood top, and 2.5" aprons.

Weight would be an issue, figuring the moving often lifestyle. 2 things I wanted, weight saving and flexibility. So the aprons are 3/4" thick, glued to a 1"x3/4" runner. I set them back 4" from the side so they are inconvenient to use as handles. The short and long aprons are not connected, and they overlap by 5/16" guessing they will be flush in August.

The legs are to sit on the floor, no glides or levelers. The top will flex enough to allow all 4 feet to sit solidly, even if one leg is on a 1/2" spacer. I hope these NY apartments don't have floors that are that uneven.
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post #9 of 36 Old 02-21-2011, 10:02 AM
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Very nice!
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post #10 of 36 Old 02-22-2011, 06:10 PM
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Nice work, definitely looks like a sturdy table

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post #11 of 36 Old 02-25-2011, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a look at the underside, showing how I deal with seasonal wood movement. The screws in the center are tight, the ones in the slots are snug
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post #12 of 36 Old 02-25-2011, 07:07 PM
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Very nice design, it looks like you fit her description to the 't'! I too love the pegged tenons.
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post #13 of 36 Old 02-25-2011, 11:22 PM
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I absolutely love the design! Well done, it looks fantastic!

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post #14 of 36 Old 02-27-2011, 11:38 AM
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Nice nice table. I am curious what method you used to mortise the X legs?

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post #15 of 36 Old 02-27-2011, 11:54 AM
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Very nice design indeed. I like everything about it, especially the wedged tenons. Many refer to them as pegged but pegged tenons are a different joint. I love the wedged tenon joint even when knock-down isn't a criteria. Look forward to seeing it finished.











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post #16 of 36 Old 02-27-2011, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mjdtexan
Nice nice table. I am curious what method you used to mortise the X legs?
I used a dado to notch each leg 1/2 way through. "Lincoln log joinery" :^)
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post #17 of 36 Old 02-27-2011, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTimbers View Post
Very nice design indeed. I like everything about it, especially the wedged tenons. Many refer to them as pegged but pegged tenons are a different joint. I love the wedged tenon joint even when knock-down isn't a criteria. Look forward to seeing it finished.
Yes a pegged tenon is a different joint, and called in error. This particular joint is sometimes referred to as a "pegged tenon" which is a misconception of the difference between a peg and a wedge. Simply, a peg can be a dowel into a blind M&T into the tenon, finishing flush with the entry surface, showing when done, or could be a through dowel, showing from both sides. If a dowel is used instead of a wedge shape, what it could be called varies.

This particular joint treatment can be even more specifically called a "tusked mortise and tenon", very aptly described by phinds. News to me. And, there are many forms of wedged tenons as described here.








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post #18 of 36 Old 02-27-2011, 07:58 PM
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I wasn't attempting a class on it though I believe I could from memory - I was just referring to the particular joint he used which no matter how one dances around it, is a wedged tenon.
















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post #19 of 36 Old 03-12-2011, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Here's one of the benches that goes with the table.
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post #20 of 36 Old 03-12-2011, 07:19 PM
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Wow, that looks awesome. Great job on everything, from the design, to the execution. Fantastic job! Really well done.

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