Desk for the grandson - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 67 Old 06-20-2017, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Desk for the grandson

My grandson is at the age where he could use a desk. So I got a plan from Lee Valley . It is marked advanced so It'll test my skills. It will be made mostly of oak from church pews. Started plugging rabbets in pew ends. The legs will be cut out of that. Ripped up a seat for stiles.





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post #2 of 67 Old 06-27-2017, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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The pile of rough cuts is growing.The slices left from taking material from the thick end pieces will become the panels which are only 3/8 thick.
The plans call for poplar for the upper and lower internal panels but I happen to have some old maple flooring which will work just fine.
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post #3 of 67 Old 06-28-2017, 09:05 AM
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Great to read your plan to build a wood item, IMO not only for your grandson, but (hopefully) for many future generations. Do make it large enough for those growing years and use in his life's adventures. Take your time, post your progress, mark & date the desk, and thanks for sharing. Be safe.
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post #4 of 67 Old 06-30-2017, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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The case panels and the pull out work surface "breadboard" are put together and planed up to a point.
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post #5 of 67 Old 06-30-2017, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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I was looking for a place to insert some "significant wood". I have decided on the door panels as they are in front. Here I have to digress a bit. In the early thirties my grandfather lost everything. He had a silver fox farm. When the depression hit, nobody bought fur coats. He had hoped to muddle through but the dustbowl out West had for effect that they ate all the horses after they ran out of cows. He had been feeding old broncos and old workhorses to his foxes. He ordered them by the boxcar load. So he came up here on a land grant and had to start from scratch. The photo shows his homestead in 1938. I managed to get a few of the hewn spruce timbers from one of those buildings. Most were built in 36 so 81 years ago. I counted 115 rings on one timber after it was hewn. So that wood is at least 196 years old. I will use that in the door panels. Spruce from one of the buildings of his great-great-grandfather.
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post #6 of 67 Old 07-01-2017, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
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I was looking for a place to insert some "significant wood". I have decided on the door panels as they are in front. Here I have to digress a bit. In the early thirties my grandfather lost everything. He had a silver fox farm. When the depression hit, nobody bought fur coats. He had hoped to muddle through but the dustbowl out West had for effect that they ate all the horses after they ran out of cows. He had been feeding old broncos and old workhorses to his foxes. He ordered them by the boxcar load. So he came up here on a land grant and had to start from scratch. The photo shows his homestead in 1938. I managed to get a few of the hewn spruce timbers from one of those buildings. Most were built in 36 so 81 years ago. I counted 115 rings on one timber after it was hewn. So that wood is at least 196 years old. I will use that in the door panels. Spruce from one of the buildings of his great-great-grandfather.
That is an awesome idea....totally cool.
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post #7 of 67 Old 07-07-2017, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the whole pile of rough cuts. Now we get to work. The pews were made by Casavant who are mostly known for their pipe organs.

https://www.casavant.ca/english/news/
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post #8 of 67 Old 07-07-2017, 03:46 PM
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Those pews were made of choice lumber. Obviously you already knew this and decided to put it to good use again. Looking good.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #9 of 67 Old 07-07-2017, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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First cut and I'm already stumped. What bit to use for this bead? 1/4 bead? See circle at bottom of drawing.
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post #10 of 67 Old 07-07-2017, 04:42 PM
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I have cope and stick router bits which cut the groove and the decorative edge at the same time. If you are cutting them separately you can cut your decorative edge by making a shallow cut with a round over bit. Cut it face down on a table router against a fence because your groove won't allow you to use a hand router with a bearing.
I don't see too many raised panels where the taper is set on the inside. If I wanted that look, I think I would just cut a flat panel.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?

Last edited by Toolman50; 07-07-2017 at 04:45 PM.
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post #11 of 67 Old 07-07-2017, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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I have cope and stick router bits which cut the groove and the decorative edge at the same time. If you are cutting them separately you can cut your decorative edge by making a shallow cut with a round over bit. Cut it face down on a table router against a fence because your groove won't allow you to use a hand router with a bearing.
I don't see too many raised panels where the taper is set on the inside. If I wanted that look, I think I would just cut a flat panel.
I'm planning to turn them to the outside. "wife's orders". thanks for the bit suggestion.

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post #12 of 67 Old 07-07-2017, 06:10 PM
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I'm planning to turn them to the outside. "wife's orders". thanks for the bit suggestion.
How do you change the color of your font like that in your text? Neat.
I'm slightly better at woodwork than at computer.
I better be or I'd still be using a kids play tool set!
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If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #13 of 67 Old 07-07-2017, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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How do you change the color of your font like that in your text? Neat.
I'm slightly better at woodwork than at computer.
I better be or I'd still be using a kids play tool set!
You click on Quote. then you see the quote in the reply box. Highlight the text you want to color. On the top row, between the Sizes menu and the happy face is an A. Click on it and a selection of colors appear. Choose one, click on it . When you submit the reply, what you highlighted will be that color.

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post #14 of 67 Old 07-07-2017, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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I have cope and stick router bits which cut the groove and the decorative edge at the same time. If you are cutting them separately you can cut your decorative edge by making a shallow cut with a round over bit. Cut it face down on a table router against a fence because your groove won't allow you to use a hand router with a bearing.
I don't see too many raised panels where the taper is set on the inside. If I wanted that look, I think I would just cut a flat panel.
Are those the same as Rail & stile bits?

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post #15 of 67 Old 07-07-2017, 09:32 PM
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[QUOTE=landman;1705050]You click on Quote. then you see the quote in the reply box. Highlight the text you want to color. On the top row, between the Sizes menu and the happy face is an A. Click on it and a selection of colors appear. Choose one, click on it . When you submit the reply, what you highlighted will be that color.

Thanks for the info. I work from an I-pad and I'm unable to highlight the lines.
Probably a way but I can't see how.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #16 of 67 Old 07-14-2017, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Decided to do the case panels with these instead of tenons and mortises. Will use the red set as it is for 3/4" stock.
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post #17 of 67 Old 07-15-2017, 08:36 AM
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Decided to do the case panels with these instead of tenons and mortises. Will use the red set as it is for 3/4" stock.
Those look like rile and stile bits. (I can't see the picture very well). I'm pretty sure that you are aware of this but I will throw it out there anyway. In the plan section that you posted, they are showing mortise and tenon joinery for the panels. I can just see someone saying that they don't need the mortise and tenon joinery now and reducing their stock length by the length of the tenons. Just remember, that MOST rail and stile joinery bit sets have an offset of 3/8". That is pretty much standard. What that means is that when the joint is fully assembled, there is 3/8" of material that is not seen because it is inside it's mating piece. Because of that, the length of your stiles and mullions has to be 3/4" LONGER than the exposed dimension after the joint is put together. Again, I'm pretty sure that you were aware of this but I'd hate to see you cut all your rails and mullions to their final dimension, rout the coping cuts only to find out that you were 3/4" short on each piece. If it's old hat to you and I am just stating the obvious.....sorry about that. Loving the build by the way.

There is a very fine line between a "hobby" and a "mental illness"
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post #18 of 67 Old 07-17-2017, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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One box side cut & dry fitted. Four outer stiles left to rout.
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post #19 of 67 Old 07-17-2017, 05:46 PM
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One box side cut & dry fitted. Four outer stiles left to rout.


Looking fantastic sir!!!!!!

There is a very fine line between a "hobby" and a "mental illness"
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post #20 of 67 Old 07-18-2017, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Today, we're in the panel cuttin' business.
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