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post #1 of 11 Old 02-07-2018, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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Advise needed please

Hello everyone, I have built this US Walnut live edge coffee table with joinery no skrews, I would like to fix the oak legs to the table but cannot think of a way to do this, using dowels was an idea but I am worried about wood movement, slab is dried to 6 to 9 percent but has cupped slightly over a 6 week period in my heated garage. just curious as to how anyone on here would go about fixing the legs to the base?
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post #2 of 11 Old 02-07-2018, 08:03 AM
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I can't see anything in the pictures. What on the legs need fixing?
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post #3 of 11 Old 02-07-2018, 08:29 AM
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Nice! I think you mean how to attach top slab to legs? I would drill up from under the top horizontal brace and, well, no screws right? I'm curious as what the experts would say, cause I would mess it up somehow.

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post #4 of 11 Old 02-07-2018, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roybrew View Post
Nice! I think you mean how to attach top slab to legs? I would drill up from under the top horizontal brace and, well, no screws right? I'm curious as what the experts would say, cause I would mess it up somehow.

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Yes thats what I mean "top slab to legs" Just be nice to make the whole project without skrews or nails :)
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-07-2018, 09:10 AM
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Welcome to the forum! When you get a chance go ahead and complete your profile with first name and location. That helps us to help you and lets us know who we're talking to.

I would probably use dowels like in this quick sketch, not to scale, btw. This would allow the top to move a bit while still keeping everything attached. You can drill into the 3/4" dowel, insert and glue a 1/2" dowel, and glue the 1/2" dowel into the slab top. Don't glue the 3/4" dowel to the legs. Same principle as using screws going through an elongated slot. Make sense? It was a quick thought and drawing but this is how I would do it if I didn't want screws.

Advise needed please-slab-top-legs-floating-dowels.jpg

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post #6 of 11 Old 02-07-2018, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by difalkner View Post
Welcome to the forum! When you get a chance go ahead and complete your profile with first name and location. That helps us to help you and lets us know who we're talking to.

I would probably use dowels like in this quick sketch, not to scale, btw. This would allow the top to move a bit while still keeping everything attached. You can drill into the 3/4" dowel, insert and glue a 1/2" dowel, and glue the 1/2" dowel into the slab top. Don't glue the 3/4" dowel to the legs. Same principle as using screws going through an elongated slot. Make sense? It was a quick thought and drawing but this is how I would do it if I didn't want screws.

Attachment 339953

David
Thank you very much for taking the time to draw the diagram for me, I also thought along these lines too, maybe I was just over complicating things.
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-07-2018, 09:52 AM
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I don't see anything wrong with using screws to mount the top as long as the holes were elongated. You could recess the screws to where you couldn't see them unless the bench was turned upside down. Using screws would also enable you to remove the top if you needed to do some additional work on it.

As far as the cup warp, did you put a finish on the underside too? This helps prevents warpage.
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-07-2018, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
I don't see anything wrong with using screws to mount the top as long as the holes were elongated. You could recess the screws to where you couldn't see them unless the bench was turned upside down. Using screws would also enable you to remove the top if you needed to do some additional work on it.

As far as the cup warp, did you put a finish on the underside too? This helps prevents warpage.
Hi, yes I used BLO all over? the top is only 1300mm by 500mm so I am supprised its warped.
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-07-2018, 10:29 AM
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Hi, yes I used BLO all over? the top is only 1300mm by 500mm so I am supprised its warped.
Wood is just unpredictable. It could have stayed flat and cupped decades from now and it could also flatten out again.
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-07-2018, 01:16 PM
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The doweling method above could maybe work. Seems kind of over complicated though. I'd just use screws in elongated holes. Simple and efficient. Nobody's going to be able to see them unless they get down underneath the table looking for them anyway.

Another over complicated option would be to use some form if sliding dovetail. Like, insert a couple tail shaped things into the tops of the legs, then make mating slots in the underside of the top. Just glue one side, and leave the other side with a bit of room to move side to side.

Like in this video, around the 3 minute mark:

https://youtu.be/qkOF24cRvJE
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post #11 of 11 Old 02-08-2018, 09:38 AM
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Sliding dovetails.....there's a recent thread here about them and their uses. Warpage from a 6-9% MC slab.....you have MC changes in your shop and DID NOT acclimate your slab AND/OR laid the slab on a flat surface and the MC only changed on one side.

I don't have time to go into detail this morning BUT there's several threads here regarding MC....warpage...sliding dovetails.....NO SCREWS!!!!!

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