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7' wide Desk

2K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  Smith Brother 
#1 ·
Still working on this monster. All walnut, mid century-ish/modern chunky design.

Base is 8/4 walnut. Customer wanted a shallow drawer so I made something a little different than a normal kind of drawer unit - a little of my own need for variety led to a walnut front, hard maple sides and back and a cherry bottom. The bottom of the drawer stands a little proud of the frame stock (all 8/4) and is bevel cut like a raised panel. I don't know that anybody will ever really see this but I know it's there.

I'll post more photos as I get closer to finishing up.
 

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#4 · (Edited)
Yes, those are a few of the items I have made.


Regarding WELDING. I have this to offer. In 1995 I purchased a Hobart 110 Volt wire feed welder, with Argon gas bottle. I built the frame of my 5000 pound street rod with it, and have used it countless times, I LOVE IT.

Since then lots of companies have IMPROVED the 110 Volt units, and although mine still works great, improvements have been made. Prices have come down too. Harbor Freight has a low cost unit, and if you try it, and are unhappy, they will take it back. I do recommend Argon gas bottle with the unit.

I welded lots of plates 3/16" thick, and have not had a single failure.

A person can learn how to weld with a wire feed unit in 1-2 classes. Practice on scraps is highly recommended, and record the setting for different metal thickness you find works best. I had not welded until I purchase my Hobart unit, and just a few minutes of instructions from the Hobart rep. I was off and running, and as I said I love the unit.

Unless you are going to do production, very thick material, the 110 Volt will work fine. I found that I can weld thin sheet metal, by TACKING first, and then coming back and STITCH welding. Jumping all around so as NOT to warp the material.

Any and all questions are welcome. I am NOT a pro, but my welds look good, and heat/weld penetration has proven to be good too.

I wish you well, testing/practice is key, and then try to break apart your test, that worked for me.

Dale in Indy
 
#6 ·
Honest mistake, but you are right, it is probably 7' LONG.

When I had my hardware store, a fellow came in and asked that I cut a piece of glass, 24" wide, X 12" long. I knew it made no difference, so went to cut it. I came out of the back room carrying it, with the 24" length hanging down, He said, NO, I WANT IT 24" wide, so I turned up 90-degees, and he said, OH, OK!


Dale in Indy
 
#9 ·
Its comimg along ok. The humidity and rainy weather is kind of slowing the finishing but I just got final coats on today.

I'll be joining the ase and top tomorrow and then fine tune the drawer. I have four more projects lined up and I've got to clear this out. I have such limited space andthis piece is really big.

I should have somemore images tomorrow.
 
#11 ·
Kind of. The rails are notch cut and then I bore thru them. The legs are cut at full length and the required material is removed to slide up into the frame and down into the rails/stretchers underneath. So, think of these as top and bottom m&t's.

I've found that a lot of side mm&t's need some form of bracing behind the joins. These don't. I tezted it by walking into the frame, kneed it, stubbed my toe on it, hipped it just to see what thenfeedback would be. None to speak of. The whole base reacted as one with no flex or movement.
 
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