Yonico router bits. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 05-03-2019, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Yonico router bits.

Don't believe I will buy any more of them. I bought a tongue and grove set and the new bits need sharpening but were entirely made wrong. I went to make some doors out of 3/4" pine and discovered the wood had been milled to 25/32" and there wasn't enough bit there to mill it.
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post #2 of 17 Old 05-03-2019, 07:44 PM
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Don't believe I will buy any more of them.
I returned mine.
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post #3 of 17 Old 05-03-2019, 07:56 PM
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If the bit was for 3/4" material, 24/32", and the wood is oversized, 25/32", I wouldn't think any manufacturers bit would cut the extra 1/32". But I don't use this kind of bit so I may be speaking out of turn. Maybe Freud, Amana, Whiteside, etc. are oversized bits, I just don't know.

I have a couple of Yonico bits I use on both the CNC and my router table and they work just fine. They are extremely sharp and I would buy more.

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post #4 of 17 Old 05-03-2019, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by difalkner View Post
If the bit was for 3/4" material, 24/32", and the wood is oversized, 25/32", I wouldn't think any manufacturers bit would cut the extra 1/32". But I don't use this kind of bit so I may be speaking out of turn. Maybe Freud, Amana, Whiteside, etc. are oversized bits, I just don't know.

I have a couple of Yonico bits I use on both the CNC and my router table and they work just fine. They are extremely sharp and I would buy more.

David
Wood is going to vary in thickness if only from humidity. The bit should have handled at the least 13/16". If it were my call I would have made the bit 7/8" wide. Some 4/4 lumber is milled to 13/16". It's like the coping and sticking sets I made for cabinet and entry doors. I used 1" steel for the cabinet doors and 2" steel for the entry doors.
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post #5 of 17 Old 05-04-2019, 11:31 AM
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If you wanted a perfect cut you probably should have planed the wood to exactly 3/4". A sharp razor knife will trim that off easily. If you want a better cut in this thickness of material, find a bit designed for over sized material. I have several of the Yonico router bits and they work fine for me, but I don't expect them to cut material thicker than they are designed for.

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post #6 of 17 Old 05-04-2019, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
If you wanted a perfect cut you probably should have planed the wood to exactly 3/4". A sharp razor knife will trim that off easily. If you want a better cut in this thickness of material, find a bit designed for over sized material. I have several of the Yonico router bits and they work fine for me, but I don't expect them to cut material thicker than they are designed for.

Charley
The point is the bit shouldn't have been made to that close tolerance. It was made for 3/4" lumber and apparently the manufacturer set up the planer a little off. The bit should have been made to handle a little variance in thickness. Even sometimes when you surface wood it will vary slightly in thickness. The second issue is the bit set was almost too dull to use right out of the package.

I didn't trim off the sliver of wood on each side. I just put the doors together like they were and when I sanded them it came off.
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post #7 of 17 Old 05-04-2019, 05:06 PM
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I figure every company puts out some lemons now and again and Yonico cant be any different. I only own about 4-5 Yonico router bits but all have been worth the cost and did what was expected of them. You probably got a bit that was made on a Thursday. The guy who made the bit was thinking about his fishing trip after work Friday. Then the QC guy was probably dreaming about his hot date on Friday and it slipped right on by him.

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post #8 of 17 Old 05-05-2019, 12:15 PM
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Is it reasonable to expect the outer cutters on tongue and groove bits to be more than 1/4 inch on the outside edges, to compensate for oversize boards? Could there be expected uses for this bit set where you require exact dimensions? (Maybe used for an end/side joint like a rabbet joint??)

(I do not have the experience to have expected it to turn out clean in one pass. Having seen lots of wood dimension metric/imperial mismatches, I would have treated it as "normal behavior", trimmed the edge with a sharp knife or veneer trimmer, and moved on without thinking more about it.)

I looked up the set on Yonico's website, and it shows 1/4, 1/4, 1/4 as Steve found. Steve feels strongly that the bits should compensate for oversize boards. Is that normal for these tongue and groove router bit sets?
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post #9 of 17 Old 05-05-2019, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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I've been looking at other brands of bits and those specifications are not usually given. I did find that Freud makes their bits 13/16".
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post #10 of 17 Old 05-05-2019, 01:22 PM
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I'd return them ......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
Don't believe I will buy any more of them. I bought a tongue and grove set and the new bits need sharpening but were entirely made wrong. I went to make some doors out of 3/4" pine and discovered the wood had been milled to 25/32" and there wasn't enough bit there to mill it.

I agree that 3/4" is the nominal dimension and that should be within the range of this set of cutters. Take 'em back.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #11 of 17 Old 05-05-2019, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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I agree that 3/4" is the nominal dimension and that should be within the range of this set of cutters. Take 'em back.
I probably would but it's one of those things I bought because it would be handy to have and laid in a drawer for a couple years before I used them.
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post #12 of 17 Old 05-05-2019, 04:32 PM
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When is really ?
At a plywood speciality yard, three sheets of plywood off the top of a fork lift. The bands were cut in front of me and the top sheet was discarded. The next three sheets were 23/32, 3/4 and 49/64. Yep, all 3/4.

Another speciality lumber yard, ordered specifically 4/4 California Redwood. What I got was 5/8.

Rich
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post #13 of 17 Old 05-06-2019, 07:03 AM
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out of curiosity, where they advertised as bits for 3/4" material?


I know that I have been mad at purchases I have made, only to find out I received exactly what was advertised. I just didn't read well enough.


I do agree, that more bit is needed for this use, even if the user wanted to offset the t&g...


I have Yonico in the cabinet but haven't used them yet (1/4" flush trim bits)

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post #14 of 17 Old 05-06-2019, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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out of curiosity, where they advertised as bits for 3/4" material?


I know that I have been mad at purchases I have made, only to find out I received exactly what was advertised. I just didn't read well enough.


I do agree, that more bit is needed for this use, even if the user wanted to offset the t&g...


I have Yonico in the cabinet but haven't used them yet (1/4" flush trim bits)
It's been so long since I bought the set I don't even remember where it came from. I'm sure it was advertised for 3/4" lumber as that is what I purchased it for.
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post #15 of 17 Old 05-09-2019, 09:49 PM
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Steve.......I think in your situation an oversize bit would be better. But if it said 3/4 " (and I don't know) someone bought it for their project and needed 3/4 in and it was over size, they would be happy either. No matter what the company does someone isn't happy. I have several Yonko bits and they serve me just fine, and I'd buy more.
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post #16 of 17 Old 05-09-2019, 11:02 PM
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Steve, sorry to go against you, but to be fair, it sounds like this one is on you. it seems that if you correctly milled your lumber to the stated 3/4”, especially given your understanding of the seasonal and manufacturing variances, then the bit set would have worked as expected. You didn’t take the QC step that ensured your wood was prepared to the right dimension(s) and the manufacturer has no way to make up for those variables.

The reason for the set to be exactly as stated is that the tip of the bit can and should be matched/registered off the actual face of the workpiece in order to ensure the tongue is centered. With some ambiguous oversized dimension, the operator would have no practical means of centering the bit on the workpiece.

Next time, I suggest you use a dado blade to plough 1/3 of of one face, then flip the piece and take the same 1/3 from the other face, which will automatically center your tongue no matter the actual thickness. Or do the same with a straight router bit, which applies the same process to ploughing the groove, except with a bit that is narrower than the finished groove.

I’ve considered those t & g bit sets myself and decided that there are just too many out of my control variables to put them use.

If you hang on to them, you could set them to one face, run the work piece, and then plane the opposite face until the piece is balanced. Just remember that the depth setting needs to be the same for both sticks of wood BEFORE you start planing.
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post #17 of 17 Old 05-09-2019, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know how else to explain it. I make my own tooling for a shaper and when you make cutters for wood the cutting edge is always made wider than the intended thickness of the wood. If I were trying to make doors out of material that was more than 13/16" then it would be unreasonable to expect the bit to do it but the wood just being a 32nd off the router bit is at fault. If you make a bit that is exactly the thickness of the wood it won't machine right. Suppose you were making some tongue and groove flooring instead of tennoning the ends of rails. Some boards would be bowed enough to raise up off the table a little when you are machining it. It would then leave a sliver of wood down the length of that area where it lifted. Freud makes their set 13/16" wide so if that happened with their bit it would machine alright.
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