Wiring help needed for Delta table saw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-03-2008, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Wiring help needed for Delta table saw

About 2 weeks ago, I bought a reconditioned Delta 36-715 hybrid saw with a T-2 fence. They didn't have the fence in stock, so they had to ship it to me. Since I didn't have the fence yet, all I had done was to clean up and wax the top, assemble the guard/splitter, and calibrate everything. I had fired it up and everything seemed fine, but I had not cut anything yet.

The fence arrived yesterday and after putting it on, I made my virgin cuts today. Problem...no matter what I tried to cut, about 2 inches into the cut, the blade started slowing down to an eventual stop. When I pulled back the wood, it would start up again. Also, the motor is very hot (first table saw so I don't know if this is abnormal. Obviously something is wrong.

The saw is supposed to be wired to 120V out of the box, and as that's how my garage is wired, that's how I was going to run it. Thinking there might be a wiring problem, I popped off the cover and this is what I found.

Gray wired to Red
Black wired to Black
Yellow wired to White

The inside cover diagram leads me to believe that this is the wiring set up for 240, not 120.

As best as I can tell from the wiring diagram, it almost reads as if the 120 wiring should be:

Black, black, and red all wired together.
Gray, yellow, and white all wired together.

But what little I know about circuitry, this can't be right. Any idea as to the proper wiring for 120V?

And have I destroyed the motor by running it set up like this? If so, I have a 6 month warranty, and clearly it was miswired when it was sold. If no permanent damage has been done, then I suppose it's no big deal.
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post #2 of 9 Old 08-03-2008, 10:42 PM
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Have you.....

tested and see which ine is the ground?
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post #3 of 9 Old 08-03-2008, 11:31 PM
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Did you check the belt??

Might be slipping... Just a thought
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-04-2008, 12:16 AM
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I'm not sure about the wireing diagram or the wireing, but if it's reconditioned you would think it would of got tested before leaveing their shop, and if it did, and it has a 110 plug, it should be wired for 110. Pictures of the wireing diagram would be nice since I can't find any on the net. So the best I can do is look for other potential problems and guess since I don't have the saw physically infront of me. One thing to check is, is the circuit your running the saw on a 20 amp breaker with no less than #12 wire as stated in the manual ? Are there other things on that circuit that may drop the amps too low, such as lights, dust collector, air filtration machine etc. ? A dedicated circuit is recommended. If you are useing an extension cord is it the correct size as stated in the manual ? In summary, before you run the saw anymore you probably should call an electrcian and have a dedicated circuit put in if you don't have one, and while he is there he can check to make sure your motor is wired correctly too.

Last edited by user4178; 08-04-2008 at 01:02 AM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 08-04-2008, 09:29 PM
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if it was wired for 220 and running 110 to it the saw would not start and the motor would hum if it did start it seems like the belts are loose and slipping
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post #6 of 9 Old 08-05-2008, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

It turned out that the saw had been wired for 240v. I rewired according to the rather vague schematic to 120v and all is well.
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-05-2008, 02:17 PM
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Well I guess now we all know that reconditioned doesn't allways mean tested before sent out the door. Thats rather strange, but companies do alot of strange things nowdays I guess. As far as a dedicated circuit, I still think you should have one installed if you don't have one now, it really is worth haveing on machines like this. How many amps does your motor say it runs on ?

Last edited by user4178; 08-05-2008 at 02:22 PM.
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-06-2008, 03:33 AM
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saw

I've bought a few reconditioned tools, and have had good luck with all them. Glad to hear you got your problem fixed.
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post #9 of 9 Old 08-06-2008, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck1957 View Post
Well I guess now we all know that reconditioned doesn't allways mean tested before sent out the door. Thats rather strange, but companies do alot of strange things nowdays I guess. As far as a dedicated circuit, I still think you should have one installed if you don't have one now, it really is worth haveing on machines like this. How many amps does your motor say it runs on ?
I almost wonder if the saw was purchased by someone who rewired it to 220V themselves, and then returned it and the factory missed it.

As far as a dedicated circuit, yes, my garage has four separate circuits. I am able to use one for just my bigger power tools. My shop vac shares a circuit with the lights, I have my air compressor on another, so I have no problem with being able to isolate my table saw when it's in use.
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