When is it time to buy a new bandsaw blade? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 04-25-2014, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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When is it time to buy a new bandsaw blade?

My cozen game me his bandsaw because he got a new and better one. I know I should buy one since it is used but when is it time time to buy a new blade so I know in the future?
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post #2 of 19 Old 04-25-2014, 08:11 PM
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A few signs are when it cuts slow, shows burns in the cut and won't cut a straight line.

Joe B. 41
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post #3 of 19 Old 04-26-2014, 04:43 AM
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At risk of sounding like a smartass, get a new blade when you need if. If the old blade is dull, you need a different blade for a specific task, e.g resawing or scrolling, etc, get a new blade. For what its worth, whenever i get a used tool, the first this is replace the blade, provided its a cutting tool. It makes a difference, having a decent blade. In my experience, it can make a $40 CL saw feel like a million bucks
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post #4 of 19 Old 04-26-2014, 11:10 AM
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argeed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeb41 View Post
A few signs are when it cuts slow, shows burns in the cut and won't cut a straight line.
Also when the feed pressure seems excessive.
When the cutoffs have a curved vertical surface.
When you slide your fingers down the blade and you don't feel a "set" to the teeth.
When the blade's teeth have struck metal, or the blade side guides.
When you continually trip the motor's breaker or the supply breaker.
When the blade won't track correctly.
When you hear a click each time the weld come around indication a weld that may be about to break.

Also when you change from resawing using a 3 TPI blade, to general contour cutting 6 TPI or 10 TPI blade and it just doesn't feel right.
Some of it is intuition, the rest is physics....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 19 Old 04-29-2014, 03:34 PM
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Just want to add this : Blade is making weird noises while cutting and missing teeth. It won't cut.
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post #6 of 19 Old 04-30-2014, 06:28 PM
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It's time for a new blade.

If it matters to you, there are made in the USA options for sawblades, and they are not always more expensive than those made outside of the USA.

If you are planning to order from an internet supplier, feel free to ask them where their blades are manufactured (where the teeth are ground, set, and heat treated, and where their welding facilities are located). Some of the answers may surprise you.

Steve.
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post #7 of 19 Old 04-30-2014, 06:32 PM
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When New Blade?

Hi,
Just our 2 cents...
All of the above !
We observe the blade teeth head on and well lit. If the tips seem shiny (as in chrome), it's over for that blade !
Also works on hand saws...resharpen and reset hand saw teeth.
Be sure blade is clean so the shine is obvious...ol' patternmakers' trick!
Best,
Marena and Vinny
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post #8 of 19 Old 04-30-2014, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
My cozen game me his bandsaw
Can you translate that please.
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post #9 of 19 Old 04-30-2014, 09:47 PM
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I have a benchtop 9" Ryobi BS. For my wood carving needs, it is adequate.
New blade?
1. When the blade decides what the cut line is, not me.
2. When I can smell wood smoke despite the dust collection.
3. When the blade leaves diagonal deep grooves in the cut surface.

I have not cut 10' with this blade. All thrust bearings and guides are set with a feeler gauge.
Blade tension is adequate and there is not a speck of crap on the tires.

Tomorrow, I try another blade. Good old US of A Vermont American.
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post #10 of 19 Old 04-30-2014, 09:54 PM
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I have no doubt when the saw needs a new blade you will know it. Better get some spares now.
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post #11 of 19 Old 05-01-2014, 06:34 PM
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Changed the blade this AM and tried the saw in both western red cedar (fresh and well-dried) and in birch. Same diagonal groove problem but much more finely spaced. Almost tolerable. Feed speed still alters the grooves/inch.

Question: who makes very good BS blades, 1/4" x 6tpi and 59.5" long?
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post #12 of 19 Old 05-01-2014, 06:54 PM
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It sounds like irregular set values of the teeth may be marking the wood. If some teeth are set higher (wider) than others, you will see the pattern in the wood. Specialized gauges are needed to measure set values, you probably won't be able to detect a difference by hand. A difference of a few thousandths of an inch in set values can cause this kind of marking.

Another possibility is that there is a "lump" at the weld seam of the blade which is making the marks. You can visually inspect the weld seam for any irregularities in the finish. Pay special attention to the area of the gullet (bottom of tooth profile) at the weld seam. If you see any lumps, bumps, or irregularities, you can sand or dremel them smooth.

If you need a new blade, I know that www.SawBladeExpress.com provides some of the highest quality blades that are available.

I also see a lot of people who are very satisfied with www.supercutbandsaw.com as well. They seem to have a loyal following.

Both of those suppliers are Made-In-The USA vendors as well.
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post #13 of 19 Old 05-13-2014, 08:29 PM
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When it stops performing.....

Cut & dry....




B,
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post #14 of 19 Old 05-13-2014, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robson Valley View Post
Changed the blade this AM and tried the saw in both western red cedar (fresh and well-dried) and in birch. Same diagonal groove problem but much more finely spaced. Almost tolerable. Feed speed still alters the grooves/inch.

Question: who makes very good BS blades, 1/4" x 6tpi and 59.5" long?
Spercut- rathrum Idaho- I know they do their own welding becuase I go to their factory and wait while they make my 141". Great blade for a reasonable price.

"There are only two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as if everything is." Albert Einstein
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post #15 of 19 Old 05-13-2014, 10:15 PM
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Buy a carbide tipped blade.....


Expensive- yes...

THE RESULTS....._______________

Getting my new blade for the 1942 32 special " MOAK .......


Looking forward to it,..
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post #16 of 19 Old 05-14-2014, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bweick7 View Post
Buy a carbide tipped blade.....


Expensive- yes...

THE RESULTS....._______________

Getting my new blade for the 1942 32 special " MOAK .......


Looking forward to it,..
Now isn't the rule- no Pics- NO SAW

"There are only two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as if everything is." Albert Einstein
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post #17 of 19 Old 05-14-2014, 11:21 AM
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When to replace

I always have several blades in reserve. I have been very happy with http://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/.
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post #18 of 19 Old 05-14-2014, 07:48 PM
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Thumbs up

Ok...
I think I posted the 32 special but.......I'm getting old and senile ....
Grab some popcorn......and your favorite libation....



Enjoy the show: http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=...OAK+32+bandsaw
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post #19 of 19 Old 05-15-2014, 01:33 PM
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I got a blade and it just stopped cutting , I thought there was something wrong with the saw but when I tried a different blade, it worked well. You have to replace bandsaw blades relatively frequently .
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