I found that article. It's still on-line but it's got some stranger's picture on the top . They spelled my name right, so hey! So I edited, copied and paste it here: Conventional wisdom would have us believe that 3-wheeled band saws inherently break
blades because they have to go around too many small wheels, instead of two big wheels. To
some irrelevant extent that might be true, but the degree of stress a blade experiences going
around a 5" radius isn’t nearly as severe as what it goes through bending around a blade guide
roller with a 1/2" radius. It doesn’t have to stay bent at that angle very long to have been bent.
Once you bend it, it’s bent. It doesn’t matter how long it stays there.
If you take two pair of pliers and “work” a blade weld from 5" on either side it’ll take a
long time and a lot of bending before the weld will fail; but move those pliers in close and you
can break a weld in seconds. So it is when the blade spins around the saw at 4500 sfpm or 455 blade revolutions per minute on a Falberg saw. It takes a long time to “overwork” a blade around
5" radii; but not long at all when the bend radius is less than 1". Especially under high tension.
The consequences, in weld breakage, of running a bandsaw blade around anything other than a transport wheel are catastrophic. When you install a blade, make sure the blade is free of obstruction; you don’t want anything touching the blade. The blade must travel directly from one transport wheel to the next. When you are sawing you must keep the kerf in line with the blade, which is still traveling directly from one wheel to the next. If the workpiece gets out of line you’ll have a tight radius turn, or two, getting back into the blade guides. You can’t see what is going on inside a deep kerf so your only visual reference is the blade’s position between the guide rollers (which are not there to keep the blade straight, but to give you a visual reference at the saw’s relationship with the workpiece ). There’s three things going on: you’re keeping the blade STRAIGHT between the transport wheels, ON the scribe line, and BETWEEN the guide rollers. Keep the saw blade between the guide rollers and trust your set angle to do the rest, cutting straight to the next wheel.
When you see the blade drifting over to one or the other guide roller, slide the saw sideways (perpendicular) immediately! to keep the blade centered between the rollers and
lined up with the kerf/scribe-line. Don’t try to cut your way back to alignment; sideways! immediately!
when you first notice the blade leaning against a guide roller. (With stationary saws, you slide the kerf back in line with the saw. If your workpiece is small enough, it will align itself just by taking your hand off of it occasionally.) As a rule, you should set the “pinch rollers” wide enough to see air between them and the blade. When you see the blade making contact with a guide roller you should immediately correct by shifting the saw (or kerf) back to center. This phenomenon becomes even more critical for those using guide blocks, as the bend radius can be very acute, especially under high tension. (Once again we see the perils of over-tensioning a narrow kerf blade).This may sound totally alien to those of you who believe blade guides should always rub against the flat of the blade to keep it running straight. You’re wrong. The urethane tires keep the blade running straight; the guides are there to serve as a visual reference or to turn the blade through tight radii.