Wax on... Wax Off.. Wax On.. Wax Off... - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 09-29-2014, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
rantingrich
 
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Wax on... Wax Off.. Wax On.. Wax Off...

I have always used coats of Johnsons paste wax on my cast iron table saw top and while the wood effortlessly glides over my R4512 top still getting a bit of Rust on it.

I read on another forum about how to protect your cast iron table saw top protected. This guy said to cover it with three coats of spray SHELLAC then wax the SHELLAC.

I did this and no matter how much I wax over the shellac it is NOT at all SLICK as just having paste wax on the bare metal Table..

Am I missing something.

I am considering stripping the entire top and going back to straight wax, but every time I don't use my saw for a week or so its got a little rust working on it
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post #2 of 5 Old 09-29-2014, 01:48 PM
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I have the same saw, and I love it! I do the same as you. I use the johnsons clear paste wax on it after every project and buff it off with an old craftsman car buffer. The problem your having could be a humid location of the saw. Maybe having a dehumidifier in that are would help....just a thought.
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post #3 of 5 Old 09-29-2014, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
rantingrich
 
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Not so fast!

Well I love the R4512 as well but it was a stormy honeymoon that was for sure.

First thing was the blade was not anywhere near being close to parallel with the miter slot, and trying to get it there using the manual method of loosening the trunnion bolts, tapping it then tightening back down said bolts only left me bleeding and using profanity a sailor would blush at hearing.

So I got this thing called the PAL Alignment system specifically for the Ridgid R4512. Strike one the new R4512 come with 10mm trunnion bolts not the 9/16th that come with that kits. Strike two, the "L" shaped aluminum brackets were to small too fit over the new trunnions. But I did get to use the 2 adjustment screws that the kits did come with to put into the new L bracket I made with extrusions I found at the hardwares store and the 10mm drill and the tap I had to get to drill and tap the holes for the adjustment screws.

After that I got it pretty near parallel. If anyone can get that blade true with the miter slot using the loosen tap and retighten those damn things than they are a better man than I. But with my homemade PALs system it was pretty easy to get it there.

NOW I have NOT had the issue YET with the blade going out of parallel when raising it and lowering it. That's a whole nother RANT

The fence is slightly not true flat, the heel of the fence on the front raises the stock slightly off the table as its feed in, to align the fence using the 4 allen bolts is a trial and error thing. More Error than trial.

BE WARNED! If you buy the PALs kit "even when you specify it for the RIDGID 4512" it will not fit or work! Same for the same one for the SEARS version of this same saw. I have e-mailed the inventor and seller about this and he says they have no intentions on retooling for these two saws and or WARNING on his webpage and or other advertising vehicles such as amazon about this huge FAIL! nice huh!
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post #4 of 5 Old 09-29-2014, 06:04 PM
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Wow, sorry to hear your having all,these problems with your saw. I haven't had any of those problems at all. I think I would have called rigid on this, after all it comes with a lifetime warranty. I have contacted the rigid support for another tool, and the support was pretty good.
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post #5 of 5 Old 09-29-2014, 06:59 PM
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Gees, I think I would take the shellac off. Any film finish other than maybe having the top powdercoated is going to give you troubles. I had the same problem using wax until I started applying the wax with 0000 steel wool. After several months of doing this my equipment doesn't rust anymore.
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