Very quick increase in required feed force - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-06-2016, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Very quick increase in required feed force

I know what you think: the blade is dull! However, this happened rather quickly. I was cross cutting wood with no problem. The moment I switched to ripping, the feed became more and more difficult with every rip. I had to apply more pressure, but the blade (Dewalt 20 tooth universal blade) was not burning wood, and the quality of cut was fine. After the fifth cut I decided the blade is just dull and it is not safe. I switched to another blade: Haussmann 200 tooth plywood blade. I know, it is not even close to ideal for ripping, but that was the only sharp blade I had left. This time it started burning wood right away, making a lot of smoke and I stopped half way through. Here is the picture. Any ideas what is wrong?
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post #2 of 13 Old 08-06-2016, 03:54 PM
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2 wrongs don't make a right

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I know what you think: the blade is dull! However, this happened rather quickly. I was cross cutting wood with no problem. The moment I switched to ripping, the feed became more and more difficult with every rip. I had to apply more pressure, but the blade (Dewalt 20 tooth universal blade) was not burning wood, and the quality of cut was fine. After the fifth cut I decided the blade is just dull and it is not safe. I switched to another blade: Haussmann 200 tooth plywood blade. I know, it is not even close to ideal for ripping, but that was the only sharp blade I had left. This time it started burning wood right away, making a lot of smoke and I stopped half way through. Here is the picture. Any ideas what is wrong?
Choosing between a dull or gummed up blade and a totally wrong blade won't get you the results you want.

Ripping should be done with a blade having the fewest teeth and the largest gullets possible, a 40 tooth, a 30 tooth or a 24 tooth.

Overheating a blade will cause the gum and pitch to attach and cause more overheating, and cutting will cease and burning will increase.

Go to the Home Depot and get a Diablo 40 tooth D1040 blade and see how that works. It's around $30.00, maybe less. I used one for about 3 years pretty regularly, ripping and crosscutting and finally just changed it out to see how a 50 tooth would work, not because it was declining in performance.
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post #3 of 13 Old 08-06-2016, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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I used one for about 3 years pretty regularly, ripping and crosscutting and finally just changed it out to see how a 50 tooth would work, not because it was declining in performance.
That's another thing: I only used the Dewalt blade for 1 year once a week for a dozen cuts. The blade does not feel dull to touch at all.
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-06-2016, 04:02 PM
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What type of blade?

IO don't recall seeing a 20 tooth blade for a long time. Is it a HHS or carbide tipped blade? That will make a difference and the tooth profile is also important. Are the teeth all straight across, a true rip blade?

This is a decent rip blade:


This is what I use:


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-06-2016, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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You are right, it is a 24-tooth carbide tipped blade.
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post #6 of 13 Old 08-06-2016, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenestrane View Post
That's another thing: I only used the Dewalt blade for 1 year once a week for a dozen cuts. The blade does not feel dull to touch at all.
Touch is a pretty bad way to tell if a blade is dull, as is the "well I only used it 'x' amount" mindset. The best way to tell is performance during a cut. If it doesn't perform, it's dull

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post #7 of 13 Old 08-06-2016, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Touch is a pretty bad way to tell if a blade is dull, as is the "well I only used it 'x' amount" mindset. The best way to tell is performance during a cut. If it doesn't perform, it's dull
Thanks, it is going for sharpening.
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post #8 of 13 Old 08-06-2016, 05:24 PM
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it's quite odd that this blade went dull in a single rip . . .
methinks there's something else in play.

is it gummed up? I see lots of glue on that work -
is it a narrow blade with a wide riving knife?
is the riving knife set properly?
is the riving knife all gummed up?
did you check the parallel blade to fence bit?
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-06-2016, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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it's quite odd that this blade went dull in a single rip . . .
methinks there's something else in play.
That's what I was thinking as well.
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is it gummed up? I see lots of glue on that work -
There is a little bit of it, but it did not really get gummed up all of a sudden.
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is it a narrow blade with a wide riving knife?
No, it is a blade that came with the saw; it is not think kerf. I also have not replaced the blade since I purchased it.
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is the riving knife set properly?
Yeah, I checked it and it seems parallel and in plane with the blade.
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is the riving knife all gummed up
Nope, it is pristine.
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did you check the parallel blade to fence bit?
I did not check it with a caliper, but visually seems parallel.
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-06-2016, 10:29 PM
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Likely your rip blade was dull. Your 200 tooth blade was never designed for this task. You shortened it's life the minute you started ripping with it.

I use an Amana 60 tooth blade for almost everything I do.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #11 of 13 Old 08-06-2016, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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I use an Amana 60 tooth blade for almost everything I do.
And it does ripping fine?
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post #12 of 13 Old 08-07-2016, 12:05 AM
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Does it good enough. My usual wood usage is soft maple and poplar. Both which rip fine. Doesn't push as easy as a low tooth count rip blade, but I only need to buy one blade. I do have about 5 of them. I rotate them down as they get dull. Fresh and sharp I use them as my primary plywood blade. When it starts ripping the grain on crossgrain cuts it gets demoted to solid wood. Been doing it for years now.

I do have a rip blade but I use that for 8/4 stock and when I need a square tooth instead of the AT tooth. Makes for nice square corners instead of bat ears with the AT carbide.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #13 of 13 Old 08-07-2016, 02:15 AM
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I got a deal on AvantePro 60 tooth for smoother cuts on plywood and ended up using it for plenty of rips and have had zero problems. I ripped all the 2x lumber for my cradle with it and it cuts great which kind of surprised me . I used the same blade ripping oak which I would normally have to do a bit of planing, but the Avante cuts smoother than I ever believed possible.. It's a bit slower, but no burns or even saw marks..
Got them on sale at big blue..

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?
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