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post #21 of 49 Old 05-10-2017, 02:56 PM
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To everyone who owns a grizzly G0611X. I have had this machine for 3 years now and have had the same problems with the bits from Grizzly, Shop fox and Powermatic all breaking after 5 or 6 drawers. The machine has sat for 2 years after my frustrations and I have been subbing out my drawers to a local drawer manufacturer. I figured I would give it another try and bought more bits from grizzly hoping they had figured out the issues. They didn't. After talking with my other drawer guys, I asked how often their bits broke. They told me they have them sharpened every 6 months! I decided to do a lot of research online and have found a bit made for a 30K machine that fits perfect into the grizzly machine. The bit has lasted and does a beautiful job with this machine. The machine is great, but the bits are the only problem. For everyone here that says their Leigh dovetail jig is the best, they are apparently not a production shop that makes 100's of drawers a month. I own a Leigh and it is great if you want to do something out of the ordinary, but they are incredibly slow to make a full drawer. With the new bit in the Grizzly machine, I can dovetail all parts in 3 minutes finished. Don't sell your machine from frustration. Here is the site and info for the replacement bit that kicks ass!

shop.Akhurst.com Omec A23 750 single flute dovetail bit. Cost $69 + Shipping

I am guessing that this bit will need to be sharpened once a year with my production rate. Nice to set the machine perfect and not worry about recalibration every time a bit breaks. Hope this help everyone that was as frustrated as me
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post #22 of 49 Old 05-16-2017, 01:05 PM
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I have the shopfox w1805 dove tailer. Never broke a bit, yours seems like mine. I did buy an extra one for the same money you did. I did email that akhurst place & asked if the double flute would work. I guess I should ask shopfox. Your machine is exactly like mine. When I read your pdf manual, I thought I was reading mine..lol..Its a great machine. And your right, the leigh is not a production piece. Glad yours is up & running!
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post #23 of 49 Old 05-16-2017, 03:18 PM
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I have the shopfox w1805 dove tailer. Never broke a bit, yours seems like mine. I did buy an extra one for the same money you did. I did email that akhurst place & asked if the double flute would work. I guess I should ask shopfox. Your machine is exactly like mine. When I read your pdf manual, I thought I was reading mine..lol..Its a great machine. And your right, the leigh is not a production piece. Glad yours is up & running!
The president of Grizzly is also the president of Shop Fox, Grizzly sells direct to the customer, Shop Fox is a wholesaler to other tool dealers
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post #24 of 49 Old 05-19-2017, 12:35 AM
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Grizzly or ShopFox owners, the maximum length of the stock according to the description is 59" long. If the stock is loaded from the top and side, why is there a length limit?

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #25 of 49 Old 05-19-2017, 09:44 PM
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Bought the Grizzly machine. Took your advice mag2147 about the Omec 750 bit. Was the shipping on your order $22 too? Thought that was a bit on the high side. Ordered from the US site.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #26 of 49 Old 05-25-2017, 11:27 PM
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Looks like the bit is shipping from Canada even though I ordered it on the US site. That explains the shipping costs. Wonder how long it's going to take to get here.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #27 of 49 Old 05-26-2017, 06:02 PM
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Used a Dodds dovetailing machine for years and never broke bits. All bit bought from dodds. Not sure on the manufacturer....
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post #28 of 49 Old 05-26-2017, 10:04 PM
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Picked up the new machine today. Took a couple hours to get all the protective oil off the milled steel parts, that was a pain. Used DNA and brake cleaner on the raw metal parts. Anything that was near paint or plastic I used the DNA. Put it on a mobile base and put a plug on the cord. Only got to setup one side so far. Just a wham bam thank you ma'am setup that ended up nearly perfect. The dovetails are set to thin right now. But the top and bottom are perfectly aligned and the dovetails are nice and tight.



Gonna have to put a back up board for that last tail. Pretty lucky for the first try on setup.
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Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #29 of 49 Old 05-27-2017, 10:15 AM
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I hate cutting birch for dove tails. Ended up using 1/8 or 1/4 mdf as a back board. Its a pain. How much did that mobile dolly cost you?
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post #30 of 49 Old 05-27-2017, 10:54 AM
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$78 on Amazon.

Oasis Machinery MB900 Adjustable Heavy Duty Mobile Base

Just cut a pc of 3/4" plywood the same size as the base and drill the holes and bolt the hardware on. Wa-la, mobile cart.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #31 of 49 Old 05-27-2017, 10:56 AM
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That's all I've been using for drawer boxes for quite a few years now. I actually like the stripes showing in the dovetails. Makes then very noticeable. Plus stock processing is very quick.

I've always just uses some scrap Baltic Birch as a backer.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #32 of 49 Old 05-27-2017, 07:43 PM
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When I'm cutting dovetails with my Porter Cable jig or even my CNC I first use a straight bit to clear out the center before following up with the dovetail bit. I use a bit that equals or is close to the diameter that the top of the dovetail cut would be. If in hardwoods I'll step down in 2 or three passes with the straight bit. So far I haven't broken any dovetail bits.

4D
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post #33 of 49 Old 05-27-2017, 08:03 PM
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But you create 2 or 3x as much work.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #34 of 49 Old 05-28-2017, 06:52 AM
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That's all I've been using for drawer boxes for quite a few years now. I actually like the stripes showing in the dovetails. Makes then very noticeable. Plus stock processing is very quick.

I've always just uses some scrap Baltic Birch as a backer.
Using the same birch as your backer your just wearing your bits out a lot faster. 1/8 or 1/4 mdf is a lot less stress on the bits..Just saying..
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post #35 of 49 Old 05-28-2017, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 4DThinker View Post
When I'm cutting dovetails with my Porter Cable jig or even my CNC I first use a straight bit to clear out the center before following up with the dovetail bit. I use a bit that equals or is close to the diameter that the top of the dovetail cut would be. If in hardwoods I'll step down in 2 or three passes with the straight bit. So far I haven't broken any dovetail bits.

4D
I've heard of that. That works fine if you use two routers. Changing bits back and forth, you cant get any work done. On a CNC machine, I doubt if you have two of them..lol..but maybe you do..
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post #36 of 49 Old 05-28-2017, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 4DThinker View Post
When I'm cutting dovetails with my Porter Cable jig or even my CNC I first use a straight bit to clear out the center before following up with the dovetail bit. I use a bit that equals or is close to the diameter that the top of the dovetail cut would be. If in hardwoods I'll step down in 2 or three passes with the straight bit. So far I haven't broken any dovetail bits.

4D
You should only need one pass on an Omnijig. As far as the CNC it would only need one pass unless it's a sliding dovetail were you might want to run two...
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post #37 of 49 Old 05-28-2017, 09:20 AM
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MDF is pretty rough on carbide. It's soft yes, but pretty abrasive.

It only cuts it once anyway. The initial time and then it just falls into the hole it cut before. If you start getting chipout you cut the pc shorter and then it'll need to be cut again. The G0611X has a plastic breaker for the far left setup. The left side of the right setup is where I use the Baltic Birch.

Got the machine mostly tuned in last night. Thought I had a problem with the machine not cutting the sockets an even depth between the left and right sides but turned out to be dust flour that gets shot into the socket when the bit leaves and starts to cut the next dovetail. Have to blow that out or the joint won't go flush.

And then I was having an issue with the joint not being tight on the inside of the box. Turned out the support comb was letting the vertical board (side) be slightly below the horizontal board (front). I tried to raise the comb but that didn't work. So I got out my mallet and hit them up slightly (5-10 thou) and then things were running flush and the joint tightened right up.

Now I just have to start a run of drawers and test them as they come out to see if there is anything else that I need to adjust.

Because I'm doing Baltic Birch I'm running the machine left to right (climb ciut) to get cleaner cuts. I was surprised that the manual says to run it this way. Now that I've tuned it in and took a mallet to it I'm pretty happy with it.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #38 of 49 Old 05-29-2017, 01:09 PM
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The MDF is. I also do a pre cut if I'm not using a backer. Works some. Better for hard wood. My shopfox is jut like yours. Different name..I was disappointed to realize that it only does one kind of DT. I was hoping for a through and finger joints. I guess because of the cam is why you cant do a finger joint. I still think about using a short shaft 1/4 flute bit and put it on "0" and see if that may work. Havent tried it. I think eventually I will.
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post #39 of 49 Old 05-29-2017, 03:56 PM
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I don't see why you can do a finger joint with it.

I think the only difference between the two is the paint job and the price. They might put a different motor on it, don't know. But I was looking at both and they seem identical in pictures.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #40 of 49 Old 05-30-2017, 09:13 PM
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I don't see why you can do a finger joint with it.

I think the only difference between the two is the paint job and the price. They might put a different motor on it, don't know. But I was looking at both and they seem identical in pictures.
You'd have to stack two boards on top of each other offset by a 1/2". Then find the perfect size bit to make the joints equal.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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