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Used craftsman table saw

2K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  FrankC 
#1 · (Edited)
I found this table saw on Facebook market place for $40. Guy said it works as it should. Just doesn’t use it and needs it gone. Thoughts?

Edit: I will say it has a cast iron top, it’s 10”, comes with original fence and miter gauge. Looks to be in pretty good shape. My dad had one similar that he may have bought in the late 90’s? Not sure what the model number is.
 

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#3 ·
I’m such a newbie! I don’t know much about saws. I know my dad had a similar saw and he used it to make cabinets and whatever else we were building. So I’m sure it’s decent. Plus it’s only $40! Trying to get a decent second hand shop put together. I have arranged to pick it up in the AM. I’m assuming the saw is easily separated from the base? I don’t have a truck. I’m thinking if I can separate the two it’ll fit in my wife’s CRV with the seats folded down.
 
#5 ·
Like frank says, take some tools with you and dismantle the saw as much as you can. The legs and fence should come off making it to where you could fit it in most any car. It will probably take a 7/16" wrench and a blade screwdriver. Take a selection though.

A lot of those older craftsman saws had a terrible fence on them. That one looks like a good one. Even if you had to put a new motor on it the saw would be worth 40 bucks.
 
#6 · (Edited)
With the seat folded down and the motor removed and base off it should fit. It is 44" X 30" 20" top and, 2, 12" extensions X 27" deep with a few inches for the rails

Best to bring, just in case, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 wrenches and sockets with a ratchet and extension bars to remove the rail (front and rear), extension tables from the saw top, and saw case from the base. You will need a small adjustable wrench to remove the square head bolts to separate the motor from the saw. Also a pair of clippers assuming the wiring is tie wrapped. Depending on the switch, you might need a Philips head screwdriver to remove the switch. This is a minimum list. They are all a little different so be prepared.


Also, the fasteners on the fence rails if you have to remove them are square head. Try not to lose those. They aren't rare as hens teeth or unobtanium but are not common.


BTW, well worth $40. I would have drove a bit and picked it up for that price and I have a house full of saws. Good luck with it.


BTW2, worst case scenario the bearing is spun or the motor is junk. you could probably sell the fence on eBay for $80-$100, the miter for another $20, and sell the stand on CL for another $20 as well as get $10-$20 for the extension tables.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for all of the advice! I went to look at it and it was missing a few knobs which wasn’t a big deal. The fence was in decent shape. When I turned it on it made a god awful noise. The blade seemed to turn fine. It wasn’t wobbling, but it sounded terrible. It runs and motor seems to be fine. I was very hesitant due to the noise. The guy said he thought it might be a bearing. So I passed on it.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I've bought used tools without ever powering them up. This $40 table saw would have been in that category. I wouldn't have wasted time to even power it up. "$30 bucks untested".

Anyway, here's a draft:

1,2,3,...) check area for safety. Be careful. You're working in someone else's space, a stranger. When you unplug the cord tell the seller you are doing that, then keep an eye on the seller that they don't plug in the saw when your doing things with the saw/motor.

4) unplug the table saw. verify the correct cord was unplugged by trying to power up the saw.
5) take the belt off
6) wiggle hard the motor pulley. shouldn't be any play
7) spin the motor pulley. should spin numerous times before slowing down, and there shouldn't be any noise whatsoever, not even faint.
8) wiggle hard the table saw pulley. shouldn't be any play
9) spin the blade. should spin numerous times and there shouldn't be any noise whatsoever, not even faint.
10) put on gloves
11) wiggle the blade. shouldn't be any wiggle.
12) inspect the power cord for cracked insulation etc


13) with belt off, plug in the cord.
14) if you have an ohm meter, test the motor housing and table saw for shorts.
15) verify the area is safe powering up the saw, no kids, no dogs, nothing on the floor to trip over, there is a clear path to back away from the saw, table saw isn't wobbly, is off it's casters or they're locked
16) power up.
17) test for shorts again
18) listen. should be quiet and vibration free. definitely no high pitch
19) power off. motor should spin for a long time


20) unplug. verify the correct cord was unplugged by trying to power up the saw.
21) put the belt on.
22) remove the blade, the washers and the nut
23) verify the area is safe powering up the saw, no kids, no dogs, nothing on the floor to trip over, there is a clear path to back away from the saw, table saw isn't wobbly, is off it's casters or they're locked
24) plug in,
25) power up. there should only be low humming, no high pitched noise.
26) power off. unplug.
verify the correct cord was unplugged by trying to power up the saw.
 
#13 ·
Thanks all!! I may go and look at it again. It sounds to me like it was a dumb idea to let it go wether it’s in good shape or not. I’ll probably go and get it, then do some diagnostics to figure out what the problem is. It sounds to me like it could be an arbor bearing, belt, pulley, or a motor bearing. Thanks again for the advise. I may have also found some cast iron wings for it too for $25.
 
#20 ·
#21 ·
Thanks for the link! Looks to be easy enough. I’ll more than likely be taking the entire thing apart to clean things up. It’s got some rust on most of the innards that’ll need to be cleaned up and lubed. The top has some rust on it as well. I figured that will probably work itself out as I sand it to flatten it out.
 
#22 ·
So as for the cast iron wings I found. The guy said they measure 27” x 10” which is about what the craftsman ones are. I think the steel ones are 27” x 12”. He doesn’t know what kind of saw they came off of. I figured they would still work won’t they? I may have to re drill some holes. Or do y’all think it’s even worth the hassle to have the cast iron wings?
 
#24 ·
It has the steel wings on it now that are 12” wide. I’ll lose about 4” of space by using the cast iron wings in their place because they’re only 10” wide. It seems like the holy grail of the table saw extensions from what I’ve read. Me being a newb, I’m very fortunate to have y’all here for advice.
 
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