Trying to fix my 30 year old Craftsman table saw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 30 Old 03-12-2019, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Trying to fix my 30 year old Craftsman table saw

Hello! I have a Craftsman 10” 2HP table saw model number : 113.226682. I was in the middle of a cutt one day and it died. A friend told me that I probably needed to clean off a little lever thing that’s inside the switch. I did that and it started working but then wouldn’t turn on again a week later. Same friend told me it might be a problem with the Start Capacitor, but I was then told by a repair guy at sears that my model doesn’t have a start Capacitor. He suggested I buy their new universal on/off switch. I got it but it doesn’t fit my Machine. It has four prongs but my machine seems to only have connectors for 2 prongs. Is there a way I can make this new switch work? Or do you think the problem might be elsewhere? I really want to fix it!!
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post #2 of 30 Old 03-12-2019, 07:05 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Good for you!

Yes, the bottom photo shows a 2 terminal switch and the top phot shows a 4 terminal switch. Here's the deal. As long as the new 4 T switch will fit in the housing, the rest is figuring out which 2 terminals to use.


Typically, when you hold the switch vertically, the connections are made vertically, not across. So, on the 4 T switch, the 2 left side terminals can be used for on/off OR the right side, either way will work. HOWEVER, you need to test them with a test light or multimeter on the "continuity" setting.



Test lights typically require a HOT or power source, so that won't work. I don't know of a self powered test light ... maybe? A multimeter measures voltage or continuity by supplying a low voltage like 9 V and then seeing if it continues through the circuit. When it does, the unit will BEEP showing the connection has been made. They can be bought fairly cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Mult...gateway&sr=8-4


Watch the video!


There are lots of Craftsman switches on Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...itch&_osacat=0


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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 03-12-2019 at 07:11 PM.
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post #3 of 30 Old 03-12-2019, 08:05 PM
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Lots of powered test lights available, have had several over the years, still have a couple. Link to a deluxe one - (first one to pop up, others out there for less money):
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-3630-Batt.../dp/B000J4MUI2

Very handy for checking switches, tracing wires, etc.
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post #4 of 30 Old 03-12-2019, 08:55 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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LOL .... OK, I ordered both ......

I just ordered the multimeter and the powered test light because my cheap HF meters are crap. I think they were free or in the $2.00 bin but I'll throw them out when I get the new ones.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 30 Old 03-12-2019, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you @woodnthings! I appreciate it. I’m going to give this a try and will let you know what happens.
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post #6 of 30 Old 03-12-2019, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Alchemist, I appreciate the input!
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post #7 of 30 Old 03-14-2019, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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@woodnthings I have a question for you. Why do I need to test the on/off switch connections on the machine? Won’t I know if they work or not once I attach the new on off switch? Given that the switch is new and we can assume that it works.
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post #8 of 30 Old 03-14-2019, 07:12 PM
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No, not on the machine ......

I wanted you to test the switch to see which contacts were "switching" on/off. Like I said, typically the on/off contacts run the length of the switch body as it's activated. It just makes sense mechanically that that's how it works electrically. You can test this with the switch for on/off out of the machine to be certain how it works electrically, no power applied while testing!
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post #9 of 30 Old 03-14-2019, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, I just put the new switch on the machine and attached the connectors to the two left side terminals ( holding it vertically), but decided to check to see if you had written back before seeing if it would turn on. So are you saying that I need to know for sure whether it’s the right side or the left side terminals ( holding it vertically) before I attach the switch to the machine, because it’s dangerous if I just guess and pick the wrong side? I was just going to figure it out by testing one side and if it didn’t work, I’d know that it must be the other side.
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post #10 of 30 Old 03-14-2019, 07:43 PM
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Nope, either side will work

You are only going to use one side or the other and not "across" from one to the other.... zsat makes sense now?
If you should use the wrong contacts it's a direct short which will trip the break and scare the dickens out of you. I did get my new Amazon continuity and voltage meter today AND the power continuity tested...Amazon Prime 2 day delivery! I am impressed for $10.00 and $21.00 with free shipping.



OTC 3630 Battery Powered Continuity Tester


Etekcity Digital Multimeter MSR-R500 , Electronic Amp Volt Ohm Meter Diode Voltage Tester

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 03-14-2019 at 07:47 PM.
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post #11 of 30 Old 03-14-2019, 11:56 PM
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Did it work?

Mike
Everything i build comes with a redneck warranty. If it breaks you get to keep both pieces.
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post #12 of 30 Old 03-15-2019, 10:28 AM
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I just studied the pics for a while - is this saw 120 or 240 volts? It 'looks' like the line cord is 120 - black/white/green, but in the bottom picture in the original post I see black/red/white in one cable. In the last picture I see a coil hanging loose - is that from the new switch, or the old one? If the new switch came wit paper work. can you take a legible picture of the diagram? And a picture of each cable showing all the wires in it, and which one is the line and which one is going to the saw?
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post #13 of 30 Old 03-15-2019, 12:48 PM
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Keeping it simple .....

The original 2 terminal switch was for a 120 volt saw. The new 4 terminal switch is for a 220 volt saw. To make the new switch work, you only need 2 of the terminals, but you need to establish which two and switching or ON/OFF. This is why I recommended a continuity tester AND holding the switch vertically, testing between the left side upper and lower terminals and between the right side upper and upper for ON/OFF. At least that's my understanding of this issue.......

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #14 of 30 Old 03-15-2019, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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@woodnthings I understand that when holding it vertically I will attach the terminal attachments (holding in my hand in photo) too either the right side terminals, or the left side terminals (also shown in photo). What I don’t understand is, if either side will work as you said earlier, why do I need to test the switch, why can’t I just pick a side?

Are you saying that I need to test the terminals ( either on the left or the right) and see which terminal is the on terminal, and which is the off terminal? In this case, I guess I would also need to test the terminal connectors to determine which is the on and which is the off and then connect them to the correct terminal.

Sorry this is so confusing. I think it’s hard to communicate in writing, especially since I have little understanding of this stuff.
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post #15 of 30 Old 03-15-2019, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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@Mikhail2400 I haven’t tried turning it on yet with the new switch because i’m worried that if I attach it in the wrong way, something bad will happen, or as woodnthings said: it will cause a direct short which will trip the break and scare the dickens out of me! &#x263a;&#xfe0f;
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post #16 of 30 Old 03-15-2019, 05:49 PM
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OK, no testing eqipment so far .....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kellyanncline View Post
@woodnthings I understand that when holding it vertically I will attach the terminal attachments (holding in my hand in photo) too either the right side terminals, or the left side terminals (also shown in photo). What I don’t understand is, if either side will work as you said earlier, why do I need to test the switch, why can’t I just pick a side?

Are you saying that I need to test the terminals ( either on the left or the right) and see which terminal is the on terminal, and which is the off terminal? In this case, I guess I would also need to test the terminal connectors to determine which is the on and which is the off and then connect them to the correct terminal.

Sorry this is so confusing. I think it’s hard to communicate in writing, especially since I have little understanding of this stuff.

You are in over your head, but we will get this eventually!


A switch works like this. It connects or disconnects. There is an ON position and an OFF position. UP is usually ON when held vertically and OFF is down. It should be obvious, the handle will stick out more when ON , than when OFF.





In the second image let's just use the 2 connections on the left, and see what happens.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #17 of 30 Old 03-15-2019, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
If you should use the wrong contacts it's a direct short which will trip the break and scare the dickens out of you.
This confuses me...

In my mind you have 2 circuits that are switched on the new switch, completely separated except for sharing the throw of the switch.

If you hook it up properly you are one of the circuits switched, and everything is good.

If you hook it up "wrong" with the hot, and load on the same terminals of either the input, or output side, nothing will happen. There is no bridge between those poles on either side so you essentially have a dead circuit, no?
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post #18 of 30 Old 03-15-2019, 06:25 PM
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That's what I'm thinking/hoping .....

I was trying to get her to get a simple test light meter to make certain.
I don't do electrical work without basic test equipment and I don't think others/newbies/novices should either. Just playing it safe.


You would think that they are separated electrically, just making certain.
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post #19 of 30 Old 03-15-2019, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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@woodnthings so here's what happened: I attached both receptors to the left side terminals, plugged the machine in, and switched the switch to on. There was a little blue flash - was this the direct short that you were talking about? Then I went through the same process with the right side terminals - nothing. I tried switching which receptors I put on which terminals, for both sides ( I don't know if that makes a difference or not), but still nothing.

Then, because I was worried I had plugged in the wrong machine the last time I tried to turn it on with the old switch, I decided to try it again. So I attached the old switch, and when I plugged in the machine it made a humming noise, but but blade didn't spin. Then the humming stopped, and there was no noise.
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post #20 of 30 Old 03-15-2019, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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@woodnthings also, thanks for being concerned about my well being!
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