Transporting a Delta Unisaw 36-812 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-26-2020, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Transporting a Delta Unisaw 36-812

I have to haul a 1994 Delta Unisaw 36-812 from Minnesota to Missouri on a trailer. My question: Can I haul the machine fully assembled or do I need to remove the top. I guess I'm concerned about the weight on the cast iron base as it's bouncing down the road.

I also have to move a Delta drill press 17-900 and a Delta band saw 52-965. Should these be disassembled?
I have no problem strapping them securely, just concerned about bounce and vibrations going down the road.

Any thoughts or prior experience doing this would be much appreciated.
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post #2 of 10 Old 05-26-2020, 04:06 PM
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Just take the rails off. It should be fine...
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-26-2020, 04:56 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Leave the rails on ......

Quote:
Originally Posted by koolflyer View Post
I have to haul a 1994 Delta Unisaw 36-812 from Minnesota to Missouri on a trailer. My question: Can I haul the machine fully assembled or do I need to remove the top. I guess I'm concerned about the weight on the cast iron base as it's bouncing down the road.

I also have to move a Delta drill press 17-900 and a Delta band saw 52-965. Should these be disassembled?
I have no problem strapping them securely, just concerned about bounce and vibrations going down the road.

Any thoughts or prior experience doing this would be much appreciated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebelwork View Post
Just take the rails off. It should be fine...

The rails are supporting the side extensions, so leave them on.

Bouncing on only the extension bolts would not be a good idea.


I needed to move a smaller, lighter saw in the back of my capped pickup. I purchased it new, fully assembled, on sale for 1/3 list of the price! My idea was to turn it upside down and slide it in on a piece of heavy cardboard so the weight/mass would be near the bottom and fully supported. That worked well and it was easy to slide out and turn over onto a dolly and roll it into my shop.


I think a Unisaw would be 100 lbs or so heavier but 2 guys could invert it in it's back side then onto it's table.



On the other tools like the drill press, let the table slide all the way down and lock it, as well as the head if that's possible. You want all the weight near or resting on the base, a few sheets of cardboard in between.



Remove the table from the bandsaw! Do not move it by the table no matter what, you will snap off the trunnions! Place the table on a layer of cardboard where it can't slide around. Strap the saw from the top down to secure bed hooks or rails. Cover everything that will get wet from a driving rain and from driving in the rain ...65 MPH wind force.



Ratchet straps from the top of the drill press column to the trailer rails or bed hooks in a triangle pattern work the best.


I've moved a few shops in my day, one from Central Illinois to lower Michigan. And a 13" South Bend metal lathe in the back of a 1969 Olds Vista Cruiser which was hard to steer down I-75 because there was very little weight on the front wheels, but I made it home ... a little "oversteer" was required.... The next time I moved that beast was only a few miles down the road and I used the neighbor's tow truck and a few tag lines to keep it from swinging about.



The heaviest machine I've moved was this one:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/...l-score-35412/






The second heaviest was this one, a 12" Powermatic 5 HP table saw, at around 800 lbs or so, BUT it needed to go up a lot higher .... about 13 ft;

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 10 Old 05-26-2020, 06:01 PM
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Take the rails off. This is how it is shipped new..it's only an hour disassembly and assembly.....
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Last edited by Rebelwork; 05-26-2020 at 06:03 PM.
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post #5 of 10 Old 05-26-2020, 08:36 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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When you take the rails off .....

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Originally Posted by Rebelwork View Post
Take the rails off. This is how it is shipped new..it's only an hour disassembly and assembly.....

You must remove the side extensions as well. They are not shipped with the side extensions bolted on ... with no rails.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #6 of 10 Old 05-26-2020, 08:42 PM
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Do we need a manual or a sketched drawing?
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post #7 of 10 Old 05-27-2020, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebelwork View Post
Do we need a manual or a sketched drawing?
NO! We only need an elementary understanding of physics.

Go to Harbor Freight and purchase 3 or 4 moving blankets. Use these between the floor of the trailer and the table. With the saw upside down, block the motor with some 2x4 stubs so that it won't bounce. It probably would be a good idea to remove the drive belts also. Buy a blue water proof tarp to cover the saw in case of rain. Finally secure the saw to the trailer so that it can't slide around. Remember that it is unlikely that you would have enough acceleration to slide the saw backward, breaking will move the saw forward.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Rich
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post #8 of 10 Old 05-27-2020, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoThankyou View Post
NO! We only need an elementary understanding of physics.

Go to Harbor Freight and purchase 3 or 4 moving blankets. Use these between the floor of the trailer and the table. With the saw upside down, block the motor with some 2x4 stubs so that it won't bounce. It probably would be a good idea to remove the drive belts also. Buy a blue water proof tarp to cover the saw in case of rain. Finally secure the saw to the trailer so that it can't slide around. Remember that it is unlikely that you would have enough acceleration to slide the saw backward, breaking will move the saw forward.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.
I'm in the transport it on the top camp as well. I can load a Unisaw into the back of my truck, by myself. Get the saw up close to the tail gate, "hook" the top onto the tail gate, then lift from the bottom of the saw pivoting it onto it's top. The weight is in the top and the motor, you aren't lifting the top like this, and you have leverage on the motor as it is higher up in the cabinet.

The Unisaw motor has a pivot pin, and a bolt to keep the belts tight, It wouldn't hurt to block the motor up, or remove it, I'd probably just let it ride though.

The extensions come off with 3 bolts on each side, easy to take off, similar to the motor, they would likely ride OK with the saw standing up right, but it would be better to take some precaution.
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post #9 of 10 Old 05-27-2020, 09:32 AM
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Take the rails and side tables off. The saw is quite top heavy, so I moved mine upside down on a moving pad in the trailer, tied in place so it couldn't move around. The side tables, extension, fence rails, etc. Just got bundled and laid in alongside the saw. The comments about lowering the drill press are good. I would lift the head off and lay it on the floor wrapped in a moving pad. In a pick-up truck, I have helped move Unisaws by tipping them against the tailgate so the edge of the tailgate was under the edge of the saw table, and then continued tipping up and over until the saw was upside down in the truck bed and sitting on the moving pad. We then just slid the saw and moving pad forward until they were above the axle of the truck and tied it in place. Band saws should be laid on their back, so the spine of the saw is down. I would remove the table, and maybe make a wood cradle to keep the saw from tipping over. Again, keep the spine of the saw down.

Charley
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post #10 of 10 Old 05-28-2020, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all your suggestions. It helped a lot. I'll let you all know how it went. Thanks again.
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