Thoughts on Delta 36-725 throat modification... - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 02-13-2016, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Question Thoughts on Delta 36-725 throat modification...

Hello all,
I have an issue with the throat plate on my new Delta 36-725 TS. The issue is the maximum thickness of a plate I can use is 1/8"....yes, I could use thicker material, and route out the "high" spots, but that still leaves me with only .125" on the perimeter.
So, here is what I am thinking of doing: grind down the little shelf around the perimeter (it's not much) and take the height adjusting screws out, and grind them down to 1/4" (will leave enough for the threads), so I can have a full 1/4" sheet of whatever throat plate material for ZC or dado blade inserts.
I've worked with metal for many years as a weldor and a gunsmith, so tweaking this shouldn't be too bad. Yes, I know the top is cast iron, and I'll take my time so I don't overheat it and crack it.


Thoughts ? Suggestions ?
Thanks !!

Mike
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post #2 of 11 Old 02-13-2016, 11:31 PM
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I have a similar issue

The old Craftsman saws have a thin plate also, maybe under 1/8". My solution is to make an wood insert for the throat plate to fill in the original opening and back it up with a thicker wood block.

If you can grind down the ledge around the opening accurately that may work, but how would you do that? Bridgeport? Hand held grinder? I really don't think it would be worth it. You can make a 2 piece plate using the 1/8" thick for the opening and a thicker support block that fits inside the ledge as I did with my insert.
I used hot glue to adhere the wood insert and the block to the metal plate.




See if there any ideas in my thread:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/cautious-125962/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 02-13-2016 at 11:34 PM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 02-14-2016, 02:55 AM
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To be completely frank, that sounds like a bad idea. Without the aid of a very large milling machine, itd be near impossible to maintain a consistent depth all the way around, and the slightest misstep would create a rather unsightly gouge in the top. Adding to that, its been a while since i checked my say, but i want to say the lip that the insert sits on is itself rather thin most of the way around, save for the area around the leveling screws.

For what its worth, ive got the exact same saw, and i made a ZCI for mine doing exactly what you said, cutting to shape and rabbiting the perimeter to fit the existing hole. Its been maybe 6 or 7 months now, with a pretty good amount of use, and its holding up great. Even though there is only about 1/8 of material holding up the insert, the insert really only needs to carry its own weight, its not likely to see and significant load, so 1.8 is more than sufficient

If the idea of a wood insert still sounds iffy to you, why not make a metal one? If you have access to the tools, id wager you could pretty simply make an aluminium insert. Heck, you could probably make an aluminium insert with just woodworking tools

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post #4 of 11 Old 02-14-2016, 06:31 AM
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If it were me I wouldn't modify the cast top. I think without the proper milling machine the depth of cut would vary ruining the saw top. Like woodenthings I had a sears saw with a thin plate so I glued a piece of wood to the underside of the plate and leveled the face side with bondo. I've also made cover plates out of 1/8" wall paneling and glued a thicker piece of wood on the back side. Both worked well for me. The first one I made I routed the wood around the parameter but that was too much trouble so I never did that again. Anyway all of them worked well and the 1/8" around the parameter was never an issue. There just isn't that much down pressure on the plate.
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-14-2016, 09:40 AM
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fiberglass resan

I have the craftsman tablesaw, I hot glued a piece of lamanet to the bottom side of the plate then I filled the opening with fiberglass risan then scraped flat. when the cut needs replaced just refill. carl.
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-16-2016, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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Cool

Thanks for all the suggestions, although, some of them were kind of sketchy.....
Sooo, I went and got a 3" cut-off tool, some wheels, and went to work. I ended up taking the VERY thin shelf off, if you can call it that...looked more like a casting flash, than a shelf. And took the height adjusting screw platforms down so I have about 5/16' from the table top surface. No "oops", but came close a couple of times. And since the adjusting screws platform was countersunk, I'll get some set-screws and use an allen wrench to do the height adjustments. After all is said and done, I'm very happy with the results and glad I did it.
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-16-2016, 12:57 AM
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That looks like a good fix, well done.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #8 of 11 Old 02-16-2016, 01:32 AM
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Just curious, what thickness of throat plate will this mod allow?
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-16-2016, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Skhool View Post
Just curious, what thickness of throat plate will this mod allow?

1/4". I made it about 5/16" to leave a little room for leveling.

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post #10 of 11 Old 02-16-2016, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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In case anyone else wants to do this, I reduced the height of the leveling pads first, which allowed me to go all around some of the tighter areas....you can only get that 3" wheel into so many places ;-) And I covered the motor / gears / spindle with an old t-shirt, to keep the grinding dust off.

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post #11 of 11 Old 02-16-2016, 02:12 AM
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Great idea and execution!
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