Table saw height adjuster lock down. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 04-21-2009, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Table saw height adjuster lock down.

There is a long story but I will spare you the details. The short of it is that I had a new crapsman 10" table saw with the odd sized t-slot. After the headaches with trying to find accessories for it I was given my grandfathers vintage Craftsman 100 series 10" table saw. Something I noticed is that the new on has a lock lever that holds the height adjustment wheel, keeping it from turning. The vintage saw does not have this. I am of 2 schools of thought on this....either the old saw was so well built it didn't vibrate itself out of adjustment like the substandard saws that are made today OOOORRRRR they hadn't figured out back then that they needed to lock it down.

Does anyone know if this is needed on the older saws and if so any ideas on how to accomplish this with an OEM type look?

Thanks
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post #2 of 15 Old 04-21-2009, 10:12 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Maybe I can Help.

I retired my 50 yr old 10" Craftsman Tilting Arbor saw model no. 113.29991 last year. I saved some of the parts, including the manual. It shows a lock on the tilting trunion rather than on the raise and lower shaft, which is an Acme thread and would not change position under vibration. This was a great saw and served me well for many years. I used the old table as an extension on the left side of a pair of 12" motorized saws I bolted together. The nice thing about Sears saws is that the tables and extensions are all 27" deep, so they are interchangable on different saws. Any more help? reply here, bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 15 Old 04-21-2009, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
I retired my 50 yr old 10" Craftsman Tilting Arbor saw model no. 113.29991 last year. I saved some of the parts, including the manual. It shows a lock on the tilting trunion rather than on the raise and lower shaft, which is an Acme thread and would not change position under vibration. This was a great saw and served me well for many years. I used the old table as an extension on the left side of a pair of 12" motorized saws I bolted together. The nice thing about Sears saws is that the tables and extensions are all 27" deep, so they are interchangable on different saws. Any more help? reply here, bill


I have the 113.29992 model. It was the main table saw in my grandfathers cabinetry shop from the day it opened until he sold the business. It has sat for about 15 years with little to no use. I have a pdf of the manual and saw the angle lock but when I went out to my saw it looks like the original piece was lost and a bolt with a wingnut was used to replace it. I am also missing the front panel (part 89 in the book), the angle indicator assembly, and the tilt locking handle assembly. From the looks of it you would have to remove the front panel every time you wanted to change the blade angle. Dumb question, what is an acme thread? I am familiar with left hand/reverse threads but have only heard the term acme thread since I got into woodwork.
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post #4 of 15 Old 04-22-2009, 12:00 AM
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Threads have 2 profiles

Most if not all bolts and nut use a "v" type groove. An Acme thread has a square groove, the simple answer. Jack screws use this type of thread since it's stronger and has more contact area. The front panel held the bracket that secured the tilt control. I ended up just tilting the blade by hand and setting it with the tilt lock. If you are missing that part, it's Ok to use any bolt and nut wing nut handle combination, but something is necessary of course. Now you may not want to go to all the trouble I did, but I ended up ditching the whole cabinet base and replaced it with 4 steel 1" round legs and 2 runners on the bottom, a lot of metal work, threading etc. I used the saw as a roll around for outside projects. It was a little heavy as a portable, but the motor came off easily and lightened it a lot.
The arbor bearings needed replacement several times over it's lifetime. At one time I had a 2 HP 220v Baldor motor on it and it was unstoppable. Not every place I went had 220v handy, so that changed. Eventually I got tired of the whole shootin' match and scrapped it out for parts like the table and extensions. It's a good ol saw, but you won't find many parts for it. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 04-22-2009 at 05:00 PM.
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post #5 of 15 Old 04-22-2009, 07:41 AM
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There never was a lock on my Craftsman table saw which is about 25 years old.

G
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post #6 of 15 Old 04-22-2009, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
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There never was a lock on my Craftsman table saw which is about 25 years old.

G
George, the 25 yr age difference will get you a younger woman with 3 kids, in other words....they aren't the same saw. These saws are 50 yrs old and had a tilt lock. They manual shows it and I have the parts he's missing. FYI bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 15 Old 04-22-2009, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Now I am torn between getting the original replacement parts......or building my own cabinet for it. Something with fancy dovetails, inlays, 2 tone wood around the curved grove on the front, etc. Is the tilt lock able to be used with the front plate on? I plan on hooking up a vacuum port to it, either rear or bottom, so I need all sides to be encased. I know the motor area is going to be tricky because of the way it tilts but I think I have that figured out. I know I won't get a perfect seal but a small hole for the handles and cut out for the belt is better than the huge opening it has. If you would be willing to part with the front plate and the arbor lock how much would they cost? Thanks for the explanation on the acme thread, I have seen that in vices and some c-clamps but never paid attention to it.
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post #8 of 15 Old 04-22-2009, 09:29 AM
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Kender, I'll send you the parts

If you pay the shipping, but I'll email or post a photo of what I have. Off to the shop to find stuff, for now. Here's what I found,including the metal stand I had taken all apart. The stand, the fence and the motor mount are a separate issue from the locking widget, which I'm willing to give you. The stand requires some explanation in that the threaded rods screw up into the bosses on the table and then are bolted thru the angles with bolts on the bottom. You may not want to use this idea or we can discuss it either way. The original fence I modified to slide on a 7' long aluminim bar which was my fence rail, not shown, I worked OK, but not great,not like a Beisemeyer! The locking widget is shown attached to the trunion which would be a good thing to have as a spare. My cast iron arbor assembly cracked and I had it MIG welded and it was Ok, but I ditched anyway, sorry. I replaced this whole shootin' match with a Bosch 4000 portable job site saw, which I really like. Lighter, better fence, enough power etc. FYI So, I hope this will be useful, send me a PM , if you want to pursue this further. billI
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 04-22-2009 at 05:02 PM.
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post #9 of 15 Old 04-22-2009, 04:21 PM
 
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That is what I love about woodworking and this site. Everyone wants to help each other.
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post #10 of 15 Old 05-15-2012, 04:00 PM
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Say Wood,

If you don't mind my asking, what are the dimensions on that insert plate? I need one for a Craftsman that is 14" by 3-3/4".

If Woodworking is so much fun why isn't it called WoodFUNNING?

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post #11 of 15 Old 05-15-2012, 06:23 PM
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I can't find it ...yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnie52 View Post
Say Wood,

If you don't mind my asking, what are the dimensions on that insert plate? I need one for a Craftsman that is 14" by 3-3/4".
I looked where it oughta be, but it wasn't, so now I don't know where it is any longer. I'll post if I do find it. Actually I recommend a ZCI for you regardless. www.ptreeusa.com has them, or make your own. Problem is .... that plate is only 3/16" thick/thin. So the easiest way is to use a thin material glued to a thicker one for rigidity or your can rout an offset around it. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #12 of 15 Old 05-16-2012, 12:13 AM
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I've got several ZCI inserts. Some I made and others I purchased. The problem is I do not have the factory plate so I tried to make a plate for tilting the blade over to 45 degrees. Its darn ugly and well, just not what I really want. I've been looking for a stock plate to use with the blade tilted for a long time.

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post #13 of 15 Old 06-17-2012, 05:47 PM
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Craftsman 113.29991 parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
I retired my 50 yr old 10" Craftsman Tilting Arbor saw model no. 113.29991 last year. I saved some of the parts, including the manual. It shows a lock on the tilting trunion rather than on the raise and lower shaft, which is an Acme thread and would not change position under vibration. This was a great saw and served me well for many years. I used the old table as an extension on the left side of a pair of 12" motorized saws I bolted together. The nice thing about Sears saws is that the tables and extensions are all 27" deep, so they are interchangable on different saws. Any more help? reply here, bill
Bill

I am interested in purchasing some parts. Please call me at 618-410-6165
Thanks,
Don
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post #14 of 15 Old 01-12-2015, 08:09 PM
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@woodnthings et all.

How do you remove the height and angle cranks off their shafts?
I've remove the set screws. Both cranks run free on the shaft but for the life i cannot get them to slide off.

Signed
A mechanical dummy.

ps. If you still be chance any parts for your 113.29991 laying around, I have a bend in the thread shaft used for setting the blade height. I'd gladly pay for one that runs true.
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post #15 of 15 Old 01-12-2015, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DON O View Post
Bill

I am interested in purchasing some parts. Please call me at 618-410-6165
Thanks,
Don
Hay Don, I used to live in Cairo.
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