Table Saw Blades - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-19-2019, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
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Table Saw Blades

Just a quick question...I have heard that Freud blades run true because they're laser cut. Does anyone know if their less expensive Diablo blades run true as well?
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post #2 of 12 Old 07-19-2019, 07:22 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Freud Diablo blades are laser cut also. Read product description. I use them almost exclusively, with great success and low cost. Easy to buy cross cut, combination and ripping blades all 3 for under $100.00.
https://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo...s%2C208&sr=8-4
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post #3 of 12 Old 07-19-2019, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you sir...Will be doing that first of the month.
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post #4 of 12 Old 07-19-2019, 09:59 PM
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I use combination Diablo blades on my table saw and crosscut on my radial arm saw. very good blades for my needs.
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-19-2019, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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They seem to be a pretty popular choice. I will definitely start with the combo blade.
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-19-2019, 10:52 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Which of these blades ....?

For years I used the 40 tooth general purpose blade:

https://www.amazon.com/D1040X-Diablo...FNKH0KXF5KFFJ1


the upon the advice of a good woodworker friend I switched to this blade for all my "normal" cutting operations:

https://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo...kingtalkcon-20


I think the biggest difference is cleaner crosscuts with the 50 tooth, but some sacrifice when ripping. I still own three 40 tooth blades and a spare 50 tooth. When ripping 2" and thicker, I use the 24 tooth rip blade. For the Radial Arm Saw I use the 60 tooth crosscut blade. At around $30.00 per blade you can use the blade that best suits your operation.
All about Diablo saw blades:
https://www.diablotools.com/explore/saw-blades


Note the hook angle on all the blades is 15 degrees except the D1060 which is 7 degrees.
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Last edited by woodnthings; 07-19-2019 at 11:19 PM.
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-20-2019, 12:18 PM
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Warning: The two blades mentioned by @woodnthings are not recommended for SawStop table saws. I looked at the photos of the blades, and both blades have anti-kickback tails behind the carbide tips. SawStop does not recommend that type of blade, because they can slow down the reaction time of the SawStop safety mechanism.
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-20-2019, 02:46 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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OK, you've been warned ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tool Agnostic View Post
Warning: The two blades mentioned by @woodnthings are not recommended for SawStop table saws. I looked at the photos of the blades, and both blades have anti-kickback tails behind the carbide tips. SawStop does not recommend that type of blade, because they can slow down the reaction time of the SawStop safety mechanism.

Warning:
Everything about Saw Stop is either proprietary, exclusive or expensive or all three ...... for those of you not familiar with them, like me.
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post #9 of 12 Old 07-20-2019, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, won't make much difference on my old craftsman.
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-21-2019, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Warning:
Everything about Saw Stop is either proprietary, exclusive or expensive or all three ...... for those of you not familiar with them, like me.
You are partially right, allow me to clarify:

Expensive - Yes, and SawStop charges top dollar because they own the patents. I view the cost difference as the "price of an insurance policy" to reduce the risk of a serious table saw injury. You get a top quality table saw, too. As I have stated many times before, I wish that they had found a way to license the patents to all table saw manufacturers so everyone could benefit. The patents belong to them, and it is not illegal to be a jerk about it.

Proprietary - For SawStop brakes, attachments, and accessories, but not much else. SawStop brand accessories are expensive, but I . Hopefully you will never need to buy them more than once. Most other table saw accessories just work on SawStop table saws the same as other table saws. Third party table saw accessories like sleds, guides, and jigs, all work fine. Proprietary accessories are not exclusive to SawStop. Many brands offer proprietary accessories of their own.

Exclusive - True if you are talking about their safety patents in the USA, which they have used to block competitors with safety saws. I know, because I used to own a Bosch REAXX.

Otherwise, SawStop is not really that exclusive:
* You can use nearly any 10 inch table saw blade.
* You can use any 8 inch table saw dado set with "winged" chippers.
* You can use nearly any ordinary table saw accessory: sleds, featherboards, guides, jigs, etc. There are a few exceptions, and you must take care to prevent metal on the gadget from triggering the safety mechanism.
* You can cut anything an ordinary table saw can cut. You may have to bypass the safety circuit for certain materials - wood with metal foil, pressure-treated lumber, very wet wood, etc. I cut dry wood 99.99% of the time, where it is not an issue.

The following are not recommended with SawStop:
* Blades with anti-kickback tails behind the carbide tips. You can use them, but the tails slow down the operation of the blade brake mechanism. Freud changed over from their SD208 dado set to their SD208S dado set for that reason. As noted above, some of their blade designs still have tails. I was disappointed that they removed the anti-kickback tails from the SD208 (now SD208S) dado set until I got a SawStop. :-)
* Dado sets with full blade body chippers. Chippers with wings are approved. Dados sets with full blade body chippers are too massive for the SawStop brake mechanism.
* Dado sets wider than 13/16 inch. I have seen that limit on other table saws.
* 6 inch dado sets and other dado sets that are smaller than 8 inches. The SawStop saw will refuse to run.
* Blades with non-conductive materials - lacquered carbide tips, plastic hubs (wobble dados?), etc. You can run lacquer-coated blades through a few boards in bypass mode to abrade the coating off the carbide tips. After that, the blades are okay to use in normal safety mode.
* Those Rockler miter fold dado sets. I wanted one after I saw the demonstration, but never owned a table saw that could run it. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-mite...-dado-set-plus

It should be noted that other table saw brands have their own limits and proprietary attachments. SawStop is not alone in that regard. Some older tools were so popular that third-party companies made accessories that matched proprietary fittings. I see that a lot with my 1953 Delta bandsaw, but not as much with SawStop. I am reasonably pleased with the reusable insert plate from Infinity Tools, which means that I do not have to buy expensive zero clearance inserts from SawStop:
https://www.infinitytools.com/sawsto...o-inserts-4752

Hopefully we'll see more third-party accessories for SawStop table saws. That may not be entirely a good thing. Thinking of the future, I can easily imagine a $5 SawStop brake in an unlabeled, unmarked package from an unknown source on eBay, after the SawStop patents expire. Would you buy it?
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post #11 of 12 Old 07-21-2019, 12:51 PM
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And then there is all the Cool-aide they have to buy.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #12 of 12 Old 07-21-2019, 01:14 PM
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I bought a Sawstop ICS with all options 5 years ago and never have regretted it. Never have tripped it yet either
I have used everything from a 50's era 8" Homecraft with tilting table to a Powermatic 5hp 3 phase 10" in the past.
had an off brand 10" table saw that you could push the blade sideways while it was running, still managed to build furniture with it, somehow. I have been hit with boards from kickback when I got careless, etc. Breathed a lot of dust that I no longer care to, do have onset of COPD now.
I like the Sawstop the best, very accurate, stable, great fence, decent dust collection.
I run a Forrest 10" rip blade on it 90%, Forrest 8" dado blade the rest of the time.
I tore the saw as far down as possible to move it into my basement and put it back together
Table lined right back up, everything checked out dead on. It is easy to adjust if needed.

Comes down to my money I will spend as I like. What is important to me is not important to others

I also own 2 Radial arm saws which according to a lot of people on here I should be missing most of my fingers after running the first one since 1982, new one was bought in 1995.

edit to add:
I have used Freud Whisper blades back in the 80's and really liked them, once I tried Forrest blades I run those almost exclusively. I have a 8" on my panel was that was custom ground for that saw, 10" 20 tooth rip on table saw and 10" 60 tooth on radial arm saw, other radial arm saw has a 60 tooth blade I bought from THE Blade in Columbus Ohio don't remember the name on it. I have them sharpen everything for me except the 8" for the panel saw that one goes back to Forrest. Still have the Freud blades and every once in awhile break one out to use on the radial arm saws.
Used cheaper blades clear down to a 8 tooth carbide blade way back when most were running steel blades.
IF you are happier with a inexpensive blade then by all means run it. I fully understand not being able to have top of the line everything, prefer to buy wood to bragging about how expensive my tools are. With time you will figure out where you want/need high dollar pieces and where low cost will fit your needs/wants.
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Last edited by evilboweivel; 07-21-2019 at 01:31 PM. Reason: to add blade info
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post #13 of 12 Old 07-22-2019, 09:33 AM
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I use only Diablo blades because of their reputation and price in my tablesaw, circular saw, and SCMS. I've got no complaints. As a DIY/hobbyist, though, I don't have enough heavy duty experience to make comparisons.
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