Table Saw blade alignment
I can't say if this is an "approved" method of blade alignment, but it made sense to me. Here's what I did, with my overall approach being to align the blade to the RH miter slot.
- I looked around for a straightedge that would span the table. I ended up using one of my 4' levels. While they do have a bit of flex to them, they are at least as straight as the cast iron table top of the TS, so I called that good.
- I first clamped the level to the table, but later abandoned that approach as I realized that the straightedge should be attached directly to the blade. I ultimately used two small c-clamps to firmly attach the level to the blade.
- Using the accompanying miter gauge, I cobbled together a means of holding the HF dial indicator.
- I was careful to not allow any of the carbide tips touch the level so as to ensure that just the blade carcass touched the straightedge. I also made sure that the level did not drag on the table so shimmed it up a bit with some cardboard as I tightened the c-clamps, then removed the cardboard...leaving the level to be just above the table.
- After a bit of trial and error of adjusting the trunnions, I ended up getting it to just over .010" from front to back. That was as good as I seemed to be able to achieve, given that even slight touches to the blade and/or level would cause false readings. So in doing so, I used a very light touch throughout the process.
- I then did the stock rip fence the same way, but this proved more time consuming than the blade, even after having gained the experience with the blade alignment. I ended up getting it within about the same amount of deviation. Although I know the stock fence is not high-end, I am pretty happy with it overall and it only moves a couple thou when forced side to side with my hand, so it seems plenty rigid.
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