Table Saw on a 600$ Budget, New or Used - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 01-08-2018, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Red face Table Saw on a 600$ Budget, New or Used

Hello,

I am new to this forum, and fairly new to woodworking in general, I was hoping that you would be so kind to provide me with some guidance and advice.

I am currently in the market for a table saw for around 600 dollars. I have a bench top table saw which cuts most 3/4 sheet goods (ryobi, 99$, had to build a lot of accessory for it - fence, table extension on all 4 sides, pvc over blade shroud....etc), but the motor doesnít offer much torque, so it gets bogged down by green/moist 2x4 or any hardwood, to avoid burn marks I have to do several passes - not only time consuming but itís also a safety concern.

I am looking for a saw with :

1. Good sturdy fence, preferably biesemeyer type fence.
2. Easy dust collection (inboard motor, case enclosure)
3. 120v
4. New or used
5. Offers more cutting power than my portable table saw.
6. Space is not an issue but weight is. I am new to Cleveland and don't know anybody, can't move anything that weighs more than 300 pounds by myself.

I mainly work with mdf/melamine/plywood but would love to work with hardwood in the future.

The only new saw I can find in this price range is the Ridgid R4512 (craftsman model is out of stock), but I don't know how well it will handle moist 2x4 or hardwood. Iíd love to buy a used saw (given it is in good condition) but I couldn't find anything on offerup or craigslist near me (Cleveland, oh), maybe something will pop up eventually but Iíd like to make a purchase within the next 4 weeks if possible.

Having a very limited budget, I would like to know if my goals are realistic at all.

Is there anything else around this price range that people would recommend?

Thanks.
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post #2 of 18 Old 01-08-2018, 11:01 PM
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Welcome to the group!

I've had the R4512 for years. It's handled everything I've thrown at it. Wet PT, curvy construction lumber, pine, poplar, aspen, maple, walnut, cherry, plywood, mdf, melamine....

I think I stalled it once on some really bad construction lumber that I was really force feeding because it was so crooked.

Get a good Freud thin-kerf combination blade and you're good to go. It's a good saw for the price.
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post #3 of 18 Old 01-09-2018, 11:09 AM
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Check out the Delta 36-725 sold through Lowes


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post #4 of 18 Old 01-09-2018, 12:25 PM
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I also have the R4512. It has worked well for me for the past two years. I got mine on a trade with a friend so my cost worked out far below retail price. Still I think it is worth the money. A nice feature is the roller base. I can easily reposition the saw by myself.
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post #5 of 18 Old 01-10-2018, 10:34 AM
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How about a Unisaw in Columbus?

https://columbus.craigslist.org/tld/...449106776.html

110 volt Unisaw for $550. Looks clean.
If more interested in a usable saw, than an orig. saw, you could mount a paddle switch on the left side (much safer) or a $5 box, and 20 amp wall switch, and sell the orig. switch for $65.

If you cut a piece of wood to fit the dust door, the orig dust doors also sell for around $65.

I have the same saw, and that 1 hp 110/220 motor has the power of most modern 2hp saws. Research it. It's a RI style motor, know as a bullet motor.And it runs fine on 110 volts.

I think it's the best choice for a 110 volt saw.

The seller says other tools available. If interested, I would make a trip.

If you were near by, I would say, come on over and try mine.
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post #6 of 18 Old 01-10-2018, 10:43 AM
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I forgot to add, that the old RI motor, Unisaws are smoother running than newer saws.
Mine passes the penny test, and think it would pass a dime test, if I could get a dime to sit on it's edge, I'm sure it would pass.
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post #7 of 18 Old 01-10-2018, 10:56 AM
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Pirate is right that Unisaw was the gold standard in table saws for a long time

I have one of the last made in the USA Unisaws made and it runs a smooth as silk, but I learned a lot of my wood working on a Unisaw like the one pictured in HS
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post #8 of 18 Old 01-10-2018, 11:11 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Here's the Columbus, OH Craig's List Unisaw;



Looks clean to me. I have a buddy who has several Unisaws, loves 'em. That one's gonna tilt right as it's an older version. If you don't make a lot of bevels, then not a big deal.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-10-2018 at 11:14 AM.
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post #9 of 18 Old 01-10-2018, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post


Looks clean to me. I have a buddy who has several Unisaws, loves 'em. That one's gonna tilt right as it's an older version. If you don't make a lot of bevels, then not a big deal.
Thats a keeper even if it is a right tilt.
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post #10 of 18 Old 01-10-2018, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
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Looks clean to me. I have a buddy who has several Unisaws, loves 'em. That one's gonna tilt right as it's an older version. If you don't make a lot of bevels, then not a big deal.
Never really had a problem on bevel cuts, on my rt saw. What am I missing?
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post #11 of 18 Old 01-10-2018, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
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Never really had a problem on bevel cuts, on my rt saw. What am I missing?

Me either, guess it is because I was taught on a right tilt saw
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post #12 of 18 Old 01-10-2018, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
Never really had a problem on bevel cuts, on my rt saw. What am I missing?
Same here. Researching left tilt vs. right tilt safety was a consistent reason stated in support of left tilting saws.
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post #13 of 18 Old 01-10-2018, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, all great advice!

I will look into the unisaw, nice find. i found a unisaw in cleveland last month, selling for 1500, still waiting for the price to drop tho, budget is fixed...........

I went to lowes and hd today to check out the R4512 and Delta 36-725, i read somewhere that the R4512 has a common trunnion problem which cause the blade to wobble when rise/lowerd, that true?

As for the 36-725, the displayed unit has a sturdy fence, but the rail is composed of 2 pieces, would it cause alignment problem down the road?
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post #14 of 18 Old 01-10-2018, 04:34 PM
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Just my "theory"...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
Never really had a problem on bevel cuts, on my rt saw. What am I missing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerrys View Post

Same here. Researching left tilt vs. right tilt safety was a consistent reason stated in support of left tilting saws.
https://www.scientificamerican.com/a...-people-right/
Having studied human factors and actually worked in the Human Factors Group at General Motor Design.... back when they had one... here's my theory. Most people are right handed and use their right hand for high dexterity movements because they "have more control" feeding their work with their dominant right hand. The blade tilts "right" on a RT saw so the workpiece would be "trapped" by the tilted blade and against the fence located on the right side of the blade. Now that's a kick back waiting to happen!

Some industrial designer/engineer, who knows ....decided it would better in view of all that for the blade to tilt left. Having the fence on the right and the blade tilting left solves the workpiece trapping issue. Those who own RT saws would normally locate the fence on the left of the blade to avoid the trapping issue.

Ambi-dextrous folks wouldn't have a problem using either type of saw. But they would have to locate the fence on the proper side of the blade. There is the old argument that a right tilt blade can use the measurement scale on the fence keeping the zero so you don't have to measure to the cut line each time.... I donno, I don't own one?
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-10-2018 at 04:41 PM.
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post #15 of 18 Old 01-10-2018, 05:07 PM
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Sounds like a good theory Bill, I was taught on a right tilt, then one time at an auction I bought an unseen Wallace TS that was a left tilt, for some reason my brain couldn't get used to it so when I bought my new Unisaw I got a right tilt

But I don't think anybody makes a right tilt anymore, so there must be some actuary reasons for it
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post #16 of 18 Old 01-11-2018, 10:24 AM
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When shopping for a used machine, remember, it's the early bird that scores the good deals.
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post #17 of 18 Old 01-11-2018, 11:47 AM
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I agree with the guys who say go vintage. They are American made and are built like tanks. When I got my 1954 Craftsman 10" Cabinet Saw $100, I couldn't wait to get rid of my Craftsman 10" Table Saw which was direct drive. The new saws may be lighter, but aren't built to last. I was lucky when I got my cabinet saw, because the Freud Blade and the Freud Dado Set costs alone was what I paid for my saw. I seen the prices at the big box store made my decision to buy older tools due to the quality. I been in to older tools for a little over 2 yrs and these are the tools I have added to my wood working tools.

1954 Craftsman 10" Cabinet Saw 103.27270
1940 Craftsman Belt/Disc Sander 103.1801
1939 Craftsman Drill Press 103.0303 x 2
1940 Companion Band Saw 103.0101
1950's Atlas Workshop 9340 Scroll Saw
working on deal for 12" Parks Planer $400

I am well under $1000 on all my vintage tools. There are deals to be had if your patient.
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post #18 of 18 Old 01-11-2018, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
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Never really had a problem on bevel cuts, on my rt saw. What am I missing?
You're missing the guy who probably wrote a book about something he didn't know much about once upon a time and it stuck.. See what you've been missing out on all these years?
I'm guessing it probably had something to do with nitwits who managed to run the fence into the blade because they ain't the sharpest tool in the shop.. It's called designing around idiots I think.. I could be wrong..
Come to think about it I have a few things around the place not quite designed for my brain in mind..

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?
Marty or Marty Farty if you feel mean.

Last edited by allpurpose; 01-11-2018 at 10:03 PM.
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