Stripped my arbor (jam) nut...Rats. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
Senior Sawdust Producer
 
Leo G's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Windsor Locks, Connecticut
Posts: 4,347
View Leo G's Photo Album My Photos
Stripped my arbor (jam) nut...Rats.

Saw if pretty new, about 2 years. I do this for a living and I know how to tighten the nut. Just a bit of pressure and the spring washer will do the rest.

I am working on some man-doors and need to make a 3/4" thick tenon. So I made a spacer that is a bit bigger than 3/4" to account for the blade hangover on the plate and did my setup. Worked nice.

Then I decided instead of using my dado blade for the groove I would buy a 3/4" cutter for my shaper. Well, I set up the cutter to produce a 1" deep x 3/4" high groove. I take out the calipers and instead of .750" or something close I get .773". 0.023" to wide. That is a whole lot of extra. So I measure the cutter and the biggest carbide was .763" but they are misaligned with each other by a bit and whatever run out I have gets another .010". Well, onto the story.

I have to make my tenon a bit thicker and I put in a .019 spacer and put the nut on. It spins around on me. WTF? I'm hoping right now that I didn't strip the arbor. After a bunch of testing and then putting the nut on the arbor and moving it back and forth and watching it move about 3/64" in either direction I am convinced the nut is dead.

Called up my local repair shop and they have a few. Got two of them for $20.

But what gets me is this saw isn't that old and I treat it well. And the nut wore out in that short of a period of time. I have an older Jet saw that is 20 years old and I used it daily for 15 years. The arbor nut is still good.

I guess they make the nuts softer than the arbor so it gets damaged instead of the arbor. Still, it doesn't make me any happier that I had to lose 2 hours out of my production for the day. Especially when I have projects due for before Christmas.

Anybody else wearing out their jam nuts on their saws?

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
Leo G is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 02:58 PM
Old School
 
cabinetman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 24,027
View cabinetman's Photo Album My Photos
I gotta say after all these years, my nuts are good. Never had to replace one. You got 2 for $20, that's like $10 each...ouch!!!



cabinetman is offline  
post #3 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 03:32 PM
MD Custom Furniture
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Friendswood, TX
Posts: 86
View Gorp's Photo Album My Photos
My nuts are fine too. The only problem is that one is bigger then the other.

My Unisaw came with two, one for the dato and one for the regular blade.
Gorp is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
Senior Sawdust Producer
 
Leo G's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Windsor Locks, Connecticut
Posts: 4,347
View Leo G's Photo Album My Photos
Ouch? Really? Not like it is a standard threaded nut, they don't sell a million of these a day. They probably sell about 250 year.

In my head I went, Oh, they're worth about $6/ea so I figured I'd have to pay about $18/ea. I guess I just used it up. Like I said, I treat it well and never crank on it, that is what the spring washer is for. So now I have an extra.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
Leo G is offline  
post #5 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
Senior Sawdust Producer
 
Leo G's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Windsor Locks, Connecticut
Posts: 4,347
View Leo G's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorp View Post
My nuts are fine too. The only problem is that one is bigger then the other.

My Unisaw came with two, one for the dato and one for the regular blade.
Is one of them wider than the other? This nut I have is only about 1/4" wide. Skinny sucker.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
Leo G is offline  
post #6 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 03:43 PM
Old Methane Gas Cloud
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Huntington Beach, California
Posts: 3,500
View rrich's Photo Album My Photos
Leo,
I'm not sure what you did to strip the nut, however it seems that you may be over tightening the nut.

The way that I was taught to change TS blades is:

Raise the blade all the way and block the blade with a piece of scrap on the operator (feed) side of the blade. I usually use one of my push sticks for this.

Put the wrench over the arbor nut and while holding the piece of scrap, pull the wrench toward you. (R or L tilt, pull the wrench toward the operator side of the saw.)

Do the blade change.

Tighten the arbor nut by hand. Put the wrench on the arbor nut and allow the wrench to rest on the table. Then with your fingers, pull the top of the blade toward you. Tighten the nut as much as you can using your fingers as a pinching mechanism.

Your blade is tight and ready to go. The first time that the saw starts spinning, inertia (Thank you Sir Isaac Newton) completes the tightening action.

Remember, wrench or blade, always pull the top toward the user side of the saw.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
rrich is offline  
post #7 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 03:50 PM
Senior Member
 
clarionflyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: columbiana OH
Posts: 702
View clarionflyer's Photo Album My Photos
Whoa Leo,
Just be glad it's the nut. Never changed an arbor, but I'm sure it's not a ball of laughs. Do you mind throwing out the name of the saw? Just curious. I know, it can happen to any manufacture.

P.S. Gorp. You're a mess. Funny as hell... but still a mess.
clarionflyer is offline  
post #8 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 04:27 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 26,970
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
Ya know..

If there's anything worse than "hard nuts" it's "soft nuts". Leo, just whose nuts are these anyway?
Your saw is a Delta: http://www.woodweb.com/galleries/sho...collection.jpg

I think you're right about the nut being softer than the arbor though, that makes sense. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 12-18-2009 at 04:39 PM.
woodnthings is online now  
post #9 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 04:55 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 575
View ponch37300's Photo Album My Photos
Hopefully this won't be a repeat problem but if you can find out what size and threads per inch your jamb nut is you can order a whole bag of them for half the price of what you paid. They have them in brass and other metals, not sure what yours is made out of. Might be worth it to have some laying around so you don't lose any time or have to pay that much per nut.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-jam-nuts/=4zn5dl


Scott

Thanks for your help
ponch37300 is offline  
post #10 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
Senior Sawdust Producer
 
Leo G's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Windsor Locks, Connecticut
Posts: 4,347
View Leo G's Photo Album My Photos
Believe me, I am not over tightening the nut. Been doing this for 20 years and this is a first. The guy I got them from said it was an expendable item. Apparently they make them that way. Good money making scheme for them. $9 at a time

The nut will actually work to hold a saw blade with the spring washer. But it won't hold my dado stack, I usually use the spring nut on that too. I have a Delta X5 left tilt.

No way it should have worn out this quick, just too soft a metal, the arbor is fine and the new nut is nice and tight on the threads as it should be. No back and forth play.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
Leo G is offline  
post #11 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 06:01 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Riverside CA
Posts: 473
View Old Skhool's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo G View Post
Saw if pretty new, about 2 years. I do this for a living and I know how to tighten the nut. Just a bit of pressure and the spring washer will do the rest.

I am working on some man-doors and need to make a 3/4" thick tenon. So I made a spacer that is a bit bigger than 3/4" to account for the blade hangover on the plate and did my setup. Worked nice.

Then I decided instead of using my dado blade for the groove I would buy a 3/4" cutter for my shaper. Well, I set up the cutter to produce a 1" deep x 3/4" high groove. I take out the calipers and instead of .750" or something close I get .773". 0.023" to wide. That is a whole lot of extra. So I measure the cutter and the biggest carbide was .763" but they are misaligned with each other by a bit and whatever run out I have gets another .010". Well, onto the story.

I have to make my tenon a bit thicker and I put in a .019 spacer and put the nut on. It spins around on me. WTF? I'm hoping right now that I didn't strip the arbor. After a bunch of testing and then putting the nut on the arbor and moving it back and forth and watching it move about 3/64" in either direction I am convinced the nut is dead.

Called up my local repair shop and they have a few. Got two of them for $20.

But what gets me is this saw isn't that old and I treat it well. And the nut wore out in that short of a period of time. I have an older Jet saw that is 20 years old and I used it daily for 15 years. The arbor nut is still good.

I guess they make the nuts softer than the arbor so it gets damaged instead of the arbor. Still, it doesn't make me any happier that I had to lose 2 hours out of my production for the day. Especially when I have projects due for before Christmas.

Anybody else wearing out their jam nuts on their saws?
.
Yeah, I've went through a couple when teaching at the H.S. Just like you, after the first time, I always had a couple of extras on hand.
Old Skhool is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
replacing arbor on a craftsman saw don murtha Power Tools & Machinery 0 11-09-2009 07:03 PM
What is the best way to repair a stripped screw hole that has gotten too big? richard2o9 General Woodworking Discussion 25 01-07-2009 10:37 PM
Arbor Lucas54 Project Showcase 12 09-28-2008 10:19 AM
Rustic Arbor cranbrook2 Project Showcase 13 09-01-2008 01:51 PM
Arbor scallop cuts zawblade00 General Woodworking Discussion 4 03-31-2007 01:07 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome