Setting up/squaring a new planer. (Shop Fox W1829) Any help appreciated. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-15-2018, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Setting up/squaring a new planer. (Shop Fox W1829) Any help appreciated.

Got a good deal($200) on a BNIB Shop Fox W1829.

Looks great overall but has 2 issues.

1) The infeed side is not perfectly level with the outfeed side. I assume I can just adjust this with screws underneath the base.

2) The bigger problem, I think. The fence is not square to the base and there doesn't appear to be any adjustment. The indeed end of the fence sits about 1/8" further AWAY from the base than the outfeed end. The only thing I can think of would be to put a washer/spacer under one side of the fence mount. What is the effect of not having the fence square to the base?

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post #2 of 7 Old 11-16-2018, 06:44 AM
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You called it a planer, but what is pictured looks like a jointer. On a jointer the infeed table is adjusted to provide the thickness of cut desired.


What is the fence not square to?


George
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-16-2018, 06:58 AM
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The infeed table is suppose to be lower than the outfeed table. In setting it up raise the infeed table up level with the outfeed table and lay a straight edge over both tables. If the two tables are straight with each other you don't need to make any adjustments. As far as the infeed table being a little left from the outfeed table I don't think it's worth trying to fix. Just alien the fence with the infeed table.

The fence is fully adjustable where you can slide it all the way over to the very inside if need be. The fence is also made to tilt over to a 45 degree angle so there is adjustment there to make it square with the table. Just loosen the fence as though you were going to set it on a angle and put a square against the table and fence and lock it down at 90 degrees.
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-16-2018, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies.

Yes, I meant a jointer.

I will adjust the infeed table to be even. I see adjustment screws on the bottom.

When I say the fence is not square, I mean that when set at 45 the right hand side of the fence is further away from the edge of the base than the left hand edge by about 1/8". If you look at the picture, you can see a bit of white between the fence at the base at the bottom, but not at the top.

Does that make sense?

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post #5 of 7 Old 11-16-2018, 07:59 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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No, No, No .....

Did it not come with instructions?

Here's how it works. The outfeed table (furthest from you) should be at the same height as the tips of the cutters when they are at the top of their rotation. It may or may NOT be adjustable, depends on the jointer design. IT's not easy to adjust the knives to the same height as the outfeed table for a beginner. There are videos on how it's done.

The infeed table (closest to you), is fully adjustable for height BECAUSE it determines the depth of cut, much like a table saw blades raises up or down, depending on the depth of cut. NOTHING will happen if you raise the infeed table to the top of it's travel, NOTHING.
You will lower it gradually to take more material off the workpiece, usually about 1/32" inch at a time. If you try and take too much off at once, the jounter doesn't have enough power and will stall out.

Go on You Tune and watch the videos on the USE of a jointer and the SETUP of the jointer. Then come back with your questions.


The fence should be square or 90 degrees to the top of the table, nothing else matters. It can be at a slight angle, when looking down at the top, but that doesn't matter. Take a square and place it on the top of the table. Run it across until it bumps the fence. There should be no gap when they meet. This is also adjustable depending on the the design of the fence. Read the manual or show us photos.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-16-2018 at 08:21 AM.
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-16-2018, 08:16 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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The fence ....

The fence should be vertical for making edge joints. That is 90 degrees to the top of the table.

You should always surface the wide part of the board first. You need a flat and straight place to start before jointing the edge at 90 degrees. Once you have the wide part flat, you place that against the fence to joint the edge, in that order only!

It will tip over to any degree from 90 to 45 for beveling, but that's not used very often when starting out.

The fence can slide from left to right or right to left and be stopped at any point and locked in place. This is so you can use the cutters in different areas so you don't wear down and dull them by only using it in one place.

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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-16-2018 at 08:19 AM.
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-16-2018, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Understood, thanks guys.

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