setting up an old jointer - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 04-04-2016, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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setting up an old jointer

I bought an old Chicago Machinery Jointer a few years back and recently thought I would try to bring it back to life. As far as a quality machine is concerned, I think this model is towards the bottom and I know you get what you pay for so, here is my problem....I purchased new blades for it and put them in easy enough but am having a terrible time setting them correctly. There are no micro adjustment screws on the blade mounts, just a channel to sit in resting on 2 springs. Each blade has a bar that holds the blade in place with 4 bolts to apply pressure against the frame of the blade housing. I have set each blade as good as I can and visually they look good enough to at least reach a starting point. The inward table and outward table are coplaner, and, again, as good as can be as there are minimal adjustment screws for these, too. Each table has 3 screws on the back of the jointer to simply take out the slop and wiggle of the tables. I have the original owner's manual and it basically says nothing about fine tuning the machine. No matter what I try I still get snipe on the last 1-2 inches of the material and I've tried different sizes and types of wood. Is it time to send this jointer to the scrap yard?
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post #2 of 17 Old 04-04-2016, 11:07 PM
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The snipe is caused by the rear table being too low.
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post #3 of 17 Old 04-05-2016, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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I've tried adjusting the depth of cut to 1/32 " and still snipe.......beyond perplexed....
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post #4 of 17 Old 04-06-2016, 12:16 AM
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To get snipe, I believe you are talking about a planer possibly?
I didnt know you get snipe from a jointer.
What you are describing sounds like snipe from a planer.
I had a Foley Belsaw 5HP planer that I bought new and was never able to stop the snipe no matter how I adjusted.
At the time most planers also had snipe. I tried everything including extending the infeed and out feed tables and nothing seemed to help.
I finally succumbed to it and just accepted the fact that I would lose the first and last 4 inches of every board. No big deal.

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post #5 of 17 Old 04-06-2016, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mixwood View Post
I've tried adjusting the depth of cut to 1/32 " and still snipe.......beyond perplexed....
Wrong table. The indeed table is the one you'd adjust to change the depth of cut, most jointers the indeed is the right side. The outfeed table, the left side, is what would cause snipe. If its set too high you'll get snipe on the leading edge of the board if you can even make the cut, and if the outfeed is too low you'll get snipe on the trailing edge.

Keep raising the outfeed table little bit little while leaving the indeed alone. Take test passes as you raise the indeed, the snipe will eventually disappear

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post #6 of 17 Old 04-06-2016, 06:27 AM
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Dude, you gotta spell check your post

Quote:
Originally Posted by epicfail48 View Post
Wrong table. The indeed table is the one you'd adjust to change the depth of cut, most jointers the indeed is the right side. The outfeed table, the left side, is what would cause snipe. If its set too high you'll get snipe on the leading edge of the board if you can even make the cut, and if the outfeed is too low you'll get snipe on the trailing edge.

Keep raising the outfeed table little bit little while leaving the indeed alone. Take test passes as you raise the indeed, the snipe will eventually disappear
Not indeed....

You got "outfeed" right, but the other one is the "infeed" table. It's the one closest to the operator, where the jointing process starts. You are correct about the outfeed being too low, causing the snipe.

On jointers without an adjustable outfeed table, you must set the knives level with that table or a paper thickness above... either will work fine. I've set my joiner knives many times, on many different jointers just so's you know.

Follow the height setting process I used here:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ho...des-how-10066/

" Place a flat scrap of wood or an aluminum bar on the out feed table and mark the edge of the outfeed, then let the bar hang over on to the blades an inch or so. UNPLUG THE MACHINE of course! AS you slowly turn the cutter head in the direction of rotation the blades will just kiss the bar and move it towards the infeed table. When each blade moves the bar the same amount (a very small amount) all the blades are set to the same height. Check both sides of the blade rather than just the middle. "




The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 04-06-2016 at 07:35 AM.
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post #7 of 17 Old 04-06-2016, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mixwood View Post
I've tried adjusting the depth of cut to 1/32 " and still snipe.......beyond perplexed....
On a jointer the rear table is set exactly level with the cutting edge of the knives. What is happening is when it leaves the front table it just drop the amount it's set too low.
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post #8 of 17 Old 04-06-2016, 07:29 AM
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Mixwood, is the outfeed table on your jointer adjustable?

George
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post #9 of 17 Old 04-06-2016, 09:10 AM
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tecneak

make sure you are transferring the downward pressure to the out feed table, to make sure the wood is not pushed down on the cutters. carl.
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post #10 of 17 Old 04-06-2016, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
On a jointer the rear table is set exactly level with the cutting edge of the knives. What is happening is when it leaves the front table it just drop the amount it's set too low.
That is about it in a nut shell.

Lots of information out there, do a bit of research and take your time, you will get it settled down.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #11 of 17 Old 04-06-2016, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Not indeed....

You got "outfeed" right, but the other one is the "infeed" table. It's the one closest to the operator, where the jointing process starts. You are correct about the outfeed being too low, causing the snipe.

On jointers without an adjustable outfeed table, you must set the knives level with that table or a paper thickness above... either will work fine. I've set my joiner knives many times, on many different jointers just so's you know.

Follow the height setting process I used here:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ho...des-how-10066/

" Place a flat scrap of wood or an aluminum bar on the out feed table and mark the edge of the outfeed, then let the bar hang over on to the blades an inch or so. UNPLUG THE MACHINE of course! AS you slowly turn the cutter head in the direction of rotation the blades will just kiss the bar and move it towards the infeed table. When each blade moves the bar the same amount (a very small amount) all the blades are set to the same height. Check both sides of the blade rather than just the middle. "



Bloody hell... Thanks for catching that. The autocorrect on my tablet can be a little overzealous at times, I didn't even notice it was correcting infeed to indeed

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post #12 of 17 Old 04-07-2016, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, it's adjustable, although the owner's manual says the machine is set at the factory and adjustments should never be necessary (on the outfeed table)....
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post #13 of 17 Old 04-07-2016, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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I've done this procedure as well. Each blade moves roughly 3/16 of an inch on each side of the blade....barely kissing the blades
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post #14 of 17 Old 04-07-2016, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Definitely a jointer. Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology for this problem. When I pass the board across the tables, I maintain more pressure on the outfeed table as the board goes along. I've tried a quick pass and a very slow pass and no matter what, when the last inch passes the blades, I feel a slight "drop" in the board even if all pressure is on the outfeed table. The end result of this drop is a shallow chunk from the board that can be felt as you run your finger along the edge. When I hold two jointed boards together, all is perfect except the 1/32" wide of daylight I see at the last 2" of the boards. On a personal note, We will be leaving So Cal for the hills of East Tenn. to live in the Knoxville area. It seems that I will have a great source of knowledge right up the river!!
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post #15 of 17 Old 04-07-2016, 12:05 PM
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The blades may have been set at the factory and no adjustment needed but when you removed the blades to sharpen all of that is void. You have to install all of the knives to were each one is at the same level with each other. Once that is done the rear table has to be either raised or lowered so that the rear table is level with the cutting edge. This is why the rear table is adjustable. I have one jointer the rear table isn't adjustable so not only do I have to get all the knives in the same each has to be installed to where the cutting edge is level with the table. Anyway keep raising your rear table a little at a time and the snipe will go away. It sounds like the rear table needs to be raised 1/64".

When you use a jointer you should use uniform pressure across the board. It only needs to be enough pressure to prevent the wood from rising up.
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post #16 of 17 Old 04-07-2016, 03:17 PM
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Unless....

Quote:
Originally Posted by mixwood View Post
Yes, it's adjustable, although the owner's manual says the machine is set at the factory and adjustments should never be necessary (on the outfeed table)....

That's what they think, but we know better.
If you have changed the blades, then it time to adjust the outfeed so that it is level with the highest blade at TDC. Keep raising the outfeed table and make test passes for snipe and I'll betcha it goes away. Lock it after adjusting.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #17 of 17 Old 04-09-2016, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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SUCCESS!!!!! My piece-o-crap jointer is just like brand new. I re-checked the level on the outfeed table and noticed that it was just a pinch too high on the far side. I reasoned that when the board was going "uphill" from the blades, the last couple inches dropped down and caused the snipe. I loosened the set screws and took two pieces of an old hack saw blade, one for each side, and slipped them between the base and outfeed table. This was just enough of a shim to lift up the far end of the table and make it perfectly level. After snugging up the set screws to the shims, I ran a piece of scrap wood over the blades and instant perfection! Thanks to all who took the time to read my post and offer their wisdom and expertise.
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