Saw blades - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 9Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 25 Old 04-29-2017, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Garland, TX
Posts: 4,232
View Toolman50's Photo Album My Photos
Saw blades

Over the years I've purchased many brands of saw blades. I've paid high prices for saw blades in the past to insure I was getting a high quality blade. I used to get my blades sharpened when needed at a reputable shop.
Recently I've purchased some very cheap carbide tipped blades from both THD and Harbor Freight. These blades are priced 75-80% below what I've paid for blades in the past and I have no complaint from these blades. I could not be more surprised. The primary difference is these blades can be considered throw-away blades. Once dull, just replace them, they are not made to re-sharpen several times and the cost of a new sharpening may be more than buying a new blade.
I now have these blades on my tablesaw, radial arm and my hand held circular saw.

I think technology has changed in the blade manufacture process. Blades might be now being made with robotics?? Anyway, these cheap blades are balanced, sharp and cut true.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
Toolman50 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 25 Old 04-29-2017, 06:37 PM
Moderator
 
Steve Neul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,768
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
I also use the Tin blades which I have pretty good luck with however you can really tell the difference when you put a Diablo blade on the saw. I started buying cheap blades because I'm 50 miles from a saw sharpener. I use them until they are dull and put them in a box. Not sure if they are even worth having sharpened if I found someone.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #3 of 25 Old 04-29-2017, 07:27 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 424
View notskot's Photo Album My Photos
No doubt technology has helped improved balancing and sharpening precision of cheaper blades, but I'm not convinced that they're worth the potential loss of longer term performance of the better blades. Lower grade carbide is still more prone to shorter edge life and premature carbide degradation, and cheaper brazing and steel are still less likely to withstand the heat and rigors of cutting as well as better grade materials and processes.

There are a couple of factors that randomly ran through my mind that I can't help but wonder if are affecting your perspective....that means I'm not doubting what you're experiencing, but am wondering if they are other underlying causes. For example, how old were the supposed "better" blades that you'd been having resharpened? Is it possible that they're old enough that they're not representative of today's "better" blades? Is it possible that your sharpener was giving you "C+" or "B-" performance (or worse)? Is it possible that the older blades were dull or dirty, and you were comparing a new sharp blade to an older dull blade? Is it possible that something that's slightly off in your saws is masking the potential improved performance of the better blades? I could be completely out in left field, but thought they might be worth a mention since this post goes against conventional logic regarding cutters ( no offense intended).
notskot is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 25 Old 04-29-2017, 07:59 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,300
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
our member triplechip runs a sharpening service

Bill Quinn of W.D. QUINN CO. does a great job of sharpening even the Diablo blades if I recall:

Call him at 314-869-5353

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/vi...ouis-mo-44536/

triplechip, notskot and gj13us like this.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 04-29-2017 at 08:02 PM.
woodnthings is online now  
post #5 of 25 Old 04-29-2017, 08:38 PM
Senior Member
 
Techsniffer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 142
View Techsniffer's Photo Album My Photos
I was about to make a post about saw blades and figured I'd ask my question here.

I have a cheap Ryobi tiny table saw, miter saw, and circular saw and I have switched from the original Ryobi blade in the table saw to a Diablo (40t Freud D1040X) and I have noticed a very sizable difference in cut quality.

I also ordered a 7 1/4 blade for the circular saw (Freud D0760A Diablo 7-1/4" x 60-Tooth), and here is my question:

I don't have a big budget for blades, but I do recognize the need for quality ones to help improve what I get out my cheap tools, with so many teeth, cut type, kerf size, flat vs V cuts... I don't know what blades I should be buying. I don't really need a single use blade for a specific operation but I don't want to be causing myself more headache by using the wrong blades either.

Most of what I cut is sheet goods like plywood, Baltic birch, some oak and I don't really feel like "general use" blades are in my best interest, I don't mind changing out a blade but I would like to know what blade(s) for each of the three saws everyone might suggest? Or if one blade might be useful in the table saw and miter saw (Both 10in blades) that would be helpful also.

I want blades that are neither ultra expensive (Forrest etc) but I don't want junk, I do plan on buying a SawStop PCS early next year and I'd like them to be nice enough to use there as well.

To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.

~Ralph Waldo Emerson
Techsniffer is offline  
post #6 of 25 Old 04-30-2017, 08:02 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 424
View notskot's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Techsniffer View Post
I was about to make a post about saw blades and figured I'd ask my question here.

I have a cheap Ryobi tiny table saw, miter saw, and circular saw and I have switched from the original Ryobi blade in the table saw to a Diablo (40t Freud D1040X) and I have noticed a very sizable difference in cut quality.

I also ordered a 7 1/4 blade for the circular saw (Freud D0760A Diablo 7-1/4" x 60-Tooth), and here is my question:

I don't have a big budget for blades, but I do recognize the need for quality ones to help improve what I get out my cheap tools, with so many teeth, cut type, kerf size, flat vs V cuts... I don't know what blades I should be buying. I don't really need a single use blade for a specific operation but I don't want to be causing myself more headache by using the wrong blades either.

Most of what I cut is sheet goods like plywood, Baltic birch, some oak and I don't really feel like "general use" blades are in my best interest, I don't mind changing out a blade but I would like to know what blade(s) for each of the three saws everyone might suggest? Or if one blade might be useful in the table saw and miter saw (Both 10in blades) that would be helpful also.

I want blades that are neither ultra expensive (Forrest etc) but I don't want junk, I do plan on buying a SawStop PCS early next year and I'd like them to be nice enough to use there as well.
The 40T Diablo that's on your Ryobi is a good bang for the buck in a general purpose blade for your table saw, and I think the 60T blade you ordered for your circular saw is a good choice for finer cuts... especially plywood. What blade to get for your miter saw depends partly on whether it's a straight compound miter saw or a sliding miter saw....a slider is best with a blade that has a very low to negative hook angle. If it's a straight CMS then a steeper hook angle is acceptable. I'd get something in the range of 80T for finer crosscuts, unless you plan to do mainly framing lumber with it. Assuming it's a straight CMS I'd look to something like a Diablo D1080x (if made in Italy), Irwin Marples 80T, Freud LU74, Infinity 010-080, or the 80T Oldham Pro 100PT80 (made in the USA) from Cripe Distribution (clearance priced at $32 shipped)....any of those blades could also be put on your TS for ply or fine crosscuts in the future.

Last edited by notskot; 04-30-2017 at 08:20 AM.
notskot is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to notskot For This Useful Post:
Techsniffer (04-30-2017)
post #7 of 25 Old 04-30-2017, 12:12 PM
Senior Member
 
Techsniffer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 142
View Techsniffer's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by notskot View Post
The 40T Diablo that's on your Ryobi is a good bang for the buck in a general purpose blade for your table saw, and I think the 60T blade you ordered for your circular saw is a good choice for finer cuts... especially plywood. What blade to get for your miter saw depends partly on whether it's a straight compound miter saw or a sliding miter saw....a slider is best with a blade that has a very low to negative hook angle. If it's a straight CMS then a steeper hook angle is acceptable. I'd get something in the range of 80T for finer crosscuts, unless you plan to do mainly framing lumber with it. Assuming it's a straight CMS I'd look to something like a Diablo D1080x (if made in Italy), Irwin Marples 80T, Freud LU74, Infinity 010-080, or the 80T Oldham Pro 100PT80 (made in the USA) from Cripe Distribution (clearance priced at $32 shipped)....any of those blades could also be put on your TS for ply or fine crosscuts in the future.
It's a Ryobi TSS102L 15-Amp 10 in. Sliding Miter Saw with Laser

Any blade recommendations for this one? And table saw and circular blade recommendations would also be welcome, heck even knowing what type for what situation would be goof to know, with so many varied combinations and suggested uses it's a little confusing as there seems to be no straight answer that I can find.

Also, I've seen a few posts about Diablo blades are good if made in Italy but not if from China, how would I possibly tell this aside from being in a store and being able to see the blade in person? When I look it up on Amazon (D1080X) the specs state that it's made in China, but the image isn't the best so I can't read the fine print on the blade. Not all Diablo blades state (or show) where they are made.. and my local HD has a pretty pathetic selection of better blades as I'm sure they are mostly catering to the construction crews that want cheap disposable blades for job sites.


I looked up a few other of your suggestions (albeit for the Straight Miter)

1. Irwin Marples 80T on Amazon and I get two results, one states a ATB/Neg M at $80 more ($120) than the other non-Neg ($38), that's quiet a steep price point for the Neg which I think was what you were suggesting
2. Freud LU74R010 $70, little on the high side but not out of contention.
3. Infinity 010-080 $80, no reviews on a product makes me nervous especially at a premium price point.
4. Oldham 100PT80, price point is nice but I could find almost zero information about the company, blades, reviews etc and that makes me leery to spend money on this product as I like to "know" about the products I buy. But at $20 it's not a huge loss if they aren't very good.

To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.

~Ralph Waldo Emerson

Last edited by Techsniffer; 04-30-2017 at 12:16 PM.
Techsniffer is offline  
post #8 of 25 Old 04-30-2017, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Garland, TX
Posts: 4,232
View Toolman50's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Techsniffer View Post
I was about to make a post about saw blades and figured I'd ask my question here.

I have a cheap Ryobi tiny table saw, miter saw, and circular saw and I have switched from the original Ryobi blade in the table saw to a Diablo (40t Freud D1040X) and I have noticed a very sizable difference in cut quality.

I also ordered a 7 1/4 blade for the circular saw (Freud D0760A Diablo 7-1/4" x 60-Tooth), and here is my question:

I don't have a big budget for blades, but I do recognize the need for quality ones to help improve what I get out my cheap tools, with so many teeth, cut type, kerf size, flat vs V cuts... I don't know what blades I should be buying. I don't really need a single use blade for a specific operation but I don't want to be causing myself more headache by using the wrong blades either.

Most of what I cut is sheet goods like plywood, Baltic birch, some oak and I don't really feel like "general use" blades are in my best interest, I don't mind changing out a blade but I would like to know what blade(s) for each of the three saws everyone might suggest? Or if one blade might be useful in the table saw and miter saw (Both 10in blades) that would be helpful also.

I want blades that are neither ultra expensive (Forrest etc) but I don't want junk, I do plan on buying a SawStop PCS early next year and I'd like them to be nice enough to use there as well.

A 60 tooth on a 7 1/4" saw is for ultra fine work. It will actually put more load on your saw and is not the best for cross cutting, and that's usually the #1 task of a circular saw.
I like to run a 24 tooth carbide on my circular saw.
I run a 10" 40 tooth combo blade on my table saw.
I have a 10" 60 tooth carbide on my RAS.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
Toolman50 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Toolman50 For This Useful Post:
Techsniffer (04-30-2017)
post #9 of 25 Old 04-30-2017, 01:13 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 424
View notskot's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Techsniffer View Post
It's a Ryobi TSS102L 15-Amp 10 in. Sliding Miter Saw with Laser

Any blade recommendations for this one? And table saw and circular blade recommendations would also be welcome, heck even knowing what type for what situation would be goof to know, with so many varied combinations and suggested uses it's a little confusing as there seems to be no straight answer that I can find.

Also, I've seen a few posts about Diablo blades are good if made in Italy but not if from China, how would I possibly tell this aside from being in a store and being able to see the blade in person? When I look it up on Amazon (D1080X) the specs state that it's made in China, but the image isn't the best so I can't read the fine print on the blade. Not all Diablo blades state (or show) where they are made.. and my local HD has a pretty pathetic selection of better blades as I'm sure they are mostly catering to the construction crews that want cheap disposable blades for job sites.


I looked up a few other of your suggestions (albeit for the Straight Miter)

1. Irwin Marples 80T on Amazon and I get two results, one states a ATB/Neg M at $80 more ($120) than the other non-Neg ($38), that's quiet a steep price point for the Neg which I think was what you were suggesting
2. Freud LU74R010 $70, little on the high side but not out of contention.
3. Infinity 010-080 $80, no reviews on a product makes me nervous especially at a premium price point.
4. Oldham 100PT80, price point is nice but I could find almost zero information about the company, blades, reviews etc and that makes me leery to spend money on this product as I like to "know" about the products I buy. But at $20 it's not a huge loss if they aren't very good.
Reviews can be useful, but don't let them have too much influence over what you buy are don't buy....many reviews aren't worth the electrons they're written with, but some are....it's just hard to know who's credible and who's not. As many as 30% off all online reviews are thought to be completely fake! Do the research, and you'll be fine.

No worries about Infinity, they've been around more than 13 years, and are some of the best blades I've used, bar none at any price. It's owned by David Venditto, who's the son of Carlo Venditto, who was president of Freud, CMT USA, and Jesada, and helped put all of them on the map...he's legendary if you follow the saw blade market closely. David is an engineer by trade, and saw blades are in his blood...he grew up around this stuff. Infinity is a reputable company with a top shelf product and a reasonable price. The 010-060 is also an excellent choice for your SCMS and TS.

Oldham is a throwback name that's been around forever....once upon time they made some really nice blades...such as their Signature line. They've since been bought and sold a couple of times, and are mainly now relegated to cheap low end Chinese made knockoffs sold through Home Depot. Oldham and DW were under the same ownership at one time, and the blade in question appears to have been a kissing cousin of one of the better DeWalt blades....a short run stamped Oldham Pro instead of the DW Precision Trim series. The DW equivalent gets good marks and retails for $50-$70. Since your miter saw turns out to be a SCMS, the 10 hook is a bit steep, so probably moot point for that saw, though would be good in your TS. (same is true of the Irwin Marples blade). Probably best to keep the hook at 5 or less for the slider.

The only way to tell where the Diablo blades are made is to look at the blade or the packaging. I have not seen officially that they're made in China, but have read from credible sources that some are....so it's really just a heads up. Made in China doesn't necessarily mean poor quality, but companies don't send manufacturer there to improve quality....it's make them cost less to make, and I'd prefer not to support that effort. It's a personal choice.

The Freud LU91 is a popular choice with the appropriate hook for a slider. The CMT ITK Plus P10060 shows promise for a ~ $40, but I haven't tried that one personally.
notskot is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to notskot For This Useful Post:
Techsniffer (04-30-2017)
post #10 of 25 Old 04-30-2017, 03:09 PM
Senior Member
 
Techsniffer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 142
View Techsniffer's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolman50 View Post
A 60 tooth on a 7 1/4" saw is for ultra fine work. It will actually put more load on your saw and is not the best for cross cutting, and that's usually the #1 task of a circular saw.
I like to run a 24 tooth carbide on my circular saw.
I run a 10" 40 tooth combo blade on my table saw.
I have a 10" 60 tooth carbide on my RAS.
Normally I wouldn't have gone with 60 on my circular saw but since my table saw is relative junk some of the tasks I would like to perform on my table saw are relegated to the circular saw and I wanted a better cut than many low tooth count circular saw blades general provide, this is a stop-gap measure for now but I appreciate the information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by notskot View Post
Reviews can be useful, but don't let them have too much influence over what you buy are don't buy....many reviews aren't worth the electrons they're written with, but some are....it's just hard to know who's credible and who's not. As many as 30% off all online reviews are thought to be completely fake! Do the research, and you'll be fine.

No worries about Infinity, they've been around more than 13 years, and are some of the best blades I've used, bar none at any price. It's owned by David Venditto, who's the son of Carlo Venditto, who was president of Freud, CMT USA, and Jesada, and helped put all of them on the map...he's legendary if you follow the saw blade market closely. David is an engineer by trade, and saw blades are in his blood...he grew up around this stuff. Infinity is a reputable company with a top shelf product and a reasonable price. The 010-060 is also an excellent choice for your SCMS and TS.

Oldham is a throwback name that's been around forever....once upon time they made some really nice blades...such as their Signature line. They've since been bought and sold a couple of times, and are mainly now relegated to cheap low end Chinese made knockoffs sold through Home Depot. Oldham and DW were under the same ownership at one time, and the blade in question appears to have been a kissing cousin of one of the better DeWalt blades....a short run stamped Oldham Pro instead of the DW Precision Trim series. The DW equivalent gets good marks and retails for $50-$70. Since your miter saw turns out to be a SCMS, the 10 hook is a bit steep, so probably moot point for that saw, though would be good in your TS. (same is true of the Irwin Marples blade). Probably best to keep the hook at 5 or less for the slider.

The only way to tell where the Diablo blades are made is to look at the blade or the packaging. I have not seen officially that they're made in China, but have read from credible sources that some are....so it's really just a heads up. Made in China doesn't necessarily mean poor quality, but companies don't send manufacturer there to improve quality....it's make them cost less to make, and I'd prefer not to support that effort. It's a personal choice.

The Freud LU91 is a popular choice with the appropriate hook for a slider. The CMT ITK Plus P10060 shows promise for a ~ $40, but I haven't tried that one personally.
Yeah I don't try and rely heavily on reviews and actually read many of the low star reviews to get a feel for what real issues I might face, I take it all with a grain of salt but generally if something has hundreds of fairly positive reviews its normally a safe bet that most people have been satisfied. I also don't rely one one site for my information, I try and aggregate from many sites and read "professional" reviews (knowing many are paid for or sponsored) to get a feel for features and have a higher tendency to offer video reviews of the action which is harder to fake.

I appreciate the history lesson and info on Infinity and Oldham

To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.

~Ralph Waldo Emerson
Techsniffer is offline  
post #11 of 25 Old 05-02-2017, 01:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 594
View gj13us's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Bill Quinn of W.D. QUINN CO. does a great job of sharpening even the Diablo blades if I recall:

Call him at 314-869-5353

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/vi...ouis-mo-44536/

W.D. Quinn Saw Co. - Circular Saw Blade Sharpening - YouTube
No doubt Quinn Co. does a world class job, but looking at the equipment and the engineering behind it----How many blades would they have to sharpen in order to recover the cost of the equipment? And what do they charge?
gj13us is offline  
post #12 of 25 Old 05-02-2017, 01:17 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,300
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
It is quite reasonable

Quote:
Originally Posted by gj13us View Post
No doubt Quinn Co. does a world class job, but looking at the equipment and the engineering behind it----How many blades would they have to sharpen in order to recover the cost of the equipment? And what do they charge?

Did you click this link?
Bill Quinn of W.D. QUINN CO. does a great job of sharpening even the Diablo blades if I recall:

Call him at 314-869-5353

Visiting St Louis, MO

Post 11:



We charge $10.00 to sharpen a 40 tooth carbide tipped saw blade. That includes the following.

ultrasonic cleaning
checking for damaged tips (replace if needed) $3.00 each
checking for blade dish or runout (hammer and straighten) n/c
sand blast and polish blades so they look like new
complete CNC sharpening
inspection after sharpening
plastic dip seal for protection

same day service is available if you need it. no extra charge. typically 1-3 day turnaround.

There are some blades that are not going to be worth putting any extra money into, because you can buy them so cheap.

But if you have some expensive saw blades, $10.00 goes a long way at our shop.

60 tooth $15.00
80 tooth $20.00

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is online now  
post #13 of 25 Old 05-02-2017, 02:14 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Pa
Posts: 2,815
View TimPa's Photo Album My Photos
not sure how old that post is and if those prices are still valid....


but, you cannot beat that service at that price. especially if the quality is good!
TimPa is offline  
post #14 of 25 Old 05-02-2017, 03:26 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 594
View gj13us's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Did you click this link?
Click the link? This is 2017, man! There's no more clicking of links. We watch the vids, draw our conclusions from the headlines, and move on!

That's an astonishingly reasonable price. More than that, it seems out-n-out cheap.
gj13us is offline  
post #15 of 25 Old 05-02-2017, 03:31 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: St. Louis, Mo.
Posts: 56
View triplechip's Photo Album My Photos
Prices are still good.

Thanks,
Bill Zickel
President
W.D. Quinn Saw Co
www.quinnsaw.com
TimPa likes this.
triplechip is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to triplechip For This Useful Post:
woodnthings (05-02-2017)
post #16 of 25 Old 05-02-2017, 04:38 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 424
View notskot's Photo Album My Photos
notskot is offline  
post #17 of 25 Old 05-05-2017, 12:23 AM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,300
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
Found the video I was looking for .......

Quote:
Originally Posted by triplechip View Post
Prices are still good.

Thanks,
Bill Zickel
President
W.D. Quinn Saw Co
www.quinnsaw.com

I remembered this from a while back. I think this was a WWT member's blade:

notskot likes this.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is online now  
The Following User Says Thank You to woodnthings For This Useful Post:
Tennessee Tim (05-05-2017)
post #18 of 25 Old 05-05-2017, 08:03 AM
Senior Member
 
Techsniffer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 142
View Techsniffer's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by triplechip View Post
Prices are still good.

Thanks,
Bill Zickel
President
W.D. Quinn Saw Co
www.quinnsaw.com
I live on the west side of MO, you may just have yourself a new customer! I have only found 1 place in the KC metro area that does blade sharpening and if I recall the prices were considerably more so even with shipping I think I'll still come out ahead.

According to Freud website the only 'official' company in MO to sharpen their blades is in Springfield at BALLEW SAW & TOOL, I sent a message to them for prices.
triplechip likes this.

To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.

~Ralph Waldo Emerson
Techsniffer is offline  
post #19 of 25 Old 05-05-2017, 08:11 AM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,300
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
Did you see the hundreds of $$$$$ worth of machinery?

There may be an agreement (financial) between the Ballew saw company and Freud USA... I donno? BUT the Quinn Saw CO. can sharpen any blade they receive, and the blade won't know where it's at to be sharpened, and further, won't care either.... just sayin'

My problem is that I have quite a few Freud Diablo blades costing around $30.00 or so, and I would have to wait a long while before I had enough dull ones to warrant shipping even though the price is very reasonable. My other problem is I can't seem to wear them out. I changed out a D1040 blade that was in use for 3 years, just to try a D1050 because it was highly recommend by a professional woodworker friend. The 40 T blade was still working fine and now hangs from a nail on the shop wall. At this rate, I'll never wear them out .....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 05-05-2017 at 10:09 AM.
woodnthings is online now  
post #20 of 25 Old 05-05-2017, 08:44 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: St. Louis, Mo.
Posts: 56
View triplechip's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Techsniffer View Post
According to Freud website the only 'official' company in MO to sharpen their blades is in Springfield at BALLEW SAW & TOOL, I sent a message to them for prices.
W.D. Quinn Saw Co. is a Freud saw blade distributor and sharpening service provider. I have asked them many times to update the website to include us. Sometimes things take a while.

We can sharpen all brands of circular saw blades.

Bill
triplechip is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Additional tuning on Grizzly 14" Bandsaw chughes10 Power Tools & Machinery 11 12-31-2016 06:14 AM
Grizzly blades for Fein Multimaster? thewalnutguy Power Tools & Machinery 5 10-10-2016 08:14 PM
Planer Blades 1donwells Power Tools & Machinery 4 05-09-2016 12:09 PM
Changing table saw blades new2woodwrk General Woodworking Discussion 15 05-03-2016 07:37 PM
Sharing a recent experience getting some blades sharpened... OnealWoodworking General Woodworking Discussion 1 03-30-2016 07:56 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome