Router table for making raised panels - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 45 Old 02-21-2016, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Router table for making raised panels

Hey guys, i am getting ready to build a router table for my small, part time cabinet building venture. I already own a couple of routers, (Craftsman 2HP and a Skill 2.25HP) routers, but I am unsure if either one would be sufficient enough for my intended use of this router table. I own three shaper tables but only two are functional, and I use one that is perminately setup for stiles and the other is perminately setup for running rails. I need a way to make raised panels and don't want to use either of my existing shapers for this, for multiple reasons that I won't go into.

Anyway, I want to use this soon to be built router table for two main purposes, that is, putting round over and ogee profiles on the outside edges of the cabinet doors that I build, and I also want to use this router table for making raised panels, temporarily until I can get my dead shaper table fixed. My questions are; can I use my existing 2HP Craftsman or 2.25HP Skill for panel raising, or would a 3HP router be an absolute requirement? I don't mind taking multiple passes. Most of my panels will be either maple or MDF, almost exclusively. I found a Dewalt DW625 router locally for $170, it is a 3HP unit I believe. So if you guys think that having a 3HP unit is an absolute necessity, I will pick it up on Monday. Any opinions on this would be great.
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post #2 of 45 Old 02-21-2016, 09:44 AM
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You can get by with a 2 - 2 1/4 hp router but like you mentioned it will take multiple passes. A 3+ hp router would be better yes, but if it were me I'd focus on getting your third shaper up and running instead of buying another router.
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post #3 of 45 Old 02-21-2016, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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You can get by with a 2 - 2 1/4 hp router but like you mentioned it will take multiple passes. A 3+ hp router would be better yes, but if it were me I'd focus on getting your third shaper up and running instead of buying another router.
I agree that getting my shaper going would be optimal, unfortunately I haven't been successful with getting it fixed. We have an electric motor repair shop about 30 minutes away, but, they are expensive and I don't really trust them to fix it. I took a couple of Gracco sprayers to the last week, all they did was replace a fuse in one and put a new power cord on the other, and the bill was over $150, and they just got them to turn on, not actually function. On top of that, I paid they $50 upfront for just an estimate, and told them not to fix anything until I approved the est, and they didn't do that. Wish that I had more options on getting this thing fixed
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post #4 of 45 Old 02-21-2016, 04:19 PM
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Danny,
If you're going to be using the large raised panel router bit, (3 1/4"), do the cut in two or three passes. Final pass should just be taking maybe a 1/16" as a cleanup cut. I use a 3 1/2 hp Milwaukee in my table. If it's a softer wood, it'll hog it out in pass if I want to. I usually figure a clean up pass. Other thing you could do is take an angle cut on your table saw with the panel up on edge, to remove most of the waste wood. Then run it through your router.
Mike Hawkins:smile3:
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post #5 of 45 Old 02-21-2016, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Chamfer View Post
You can get by with a 2 - 2 1/4 hp router but like you mentioned it will take multiple passes. A 3+ hp router would be better yes, but if it were me I'd focus on getting your third shaper up and running instead of buying another router.
+1: I agree.
A small hp router will do the job if you're willing to make multiple passes. Some small routers will only accept 1/4" shanked bits. The raised panel cutters are usually 1/2" shank.
I burned up a relatively new 3hp DeWalt running red oak raised panels.
I was running a new large raised panel bit, cutting in one pass.
I've learned I need to keep a better eye on the router and stop if the motor heats up and allow some cool down time between cuts or else make multiple cuts to take some of the strain off.
You don't have to worry about this with a shaper.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #6 of 45 Old 02-22-2016, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Danny,
If you're going to be using the large raised panel router bit, (3 1/4"), do the cut in two or three passes. Final pass should just be taking maybe a 1/16" as a cleanup cut. I use a 3 1/2 hp Milwaukee in my table. If it's a softer wood, it'll hog it out in pass if I want to. I usually figure a clean up pass. Other thing you could do is take an angle cut on your table saw with the panel up on edge, to remove most of the waste wood. Then run it through your router.
Mike Hawkins:smile3:
That is a great idea that I hadn't considered. That is, running the panel through the table saw on edge with the blade tilted to remove most of the material that would otherwise be waiste for the router to remove. I wish that I had that big Milwaukee 3.5HP router like you have! That thing is a beast. I have always loved Milwaukee tools as they are built like tanks. I just do not own very many as they are also very expensive..
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post #7 of 45 Old 02-22-2016, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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I am going to look at a used Dewalt DW625 3HP router this afternoon. The owner wants something like $170 for it, but I am going to offer him $150. Does that seem like a good deal? I will then either be building myself a router table, or buying the cheaper $135 Grizzly router table. Haven't made up my mind on that.

Can anyone tell me if the Dewalt DW625 has above the table height adjustment? Is $150-$170 a good price for the DW625?
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post #8 of 45 Old 02-22-2016, 09:49 AM
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good price? not a good choice!

A plunge router in a table is difficult to make height adjustments because when you release the lock the motor wants to return to the bottom. It's a better hand held router where plunging the bit down is done way more often.

A better choice for a table, without using router lift, is a router with height adjustment built in, or "above the table", as they call it. Here's a discussion:
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...it-change.html

I have 2 routers like that, a Freud 1700 now discontinued, and a Milwaukee 5625-20 a 3 1/2 HP "beast". I got mine a few years back on Amazon for $260.00 if I recall. Here's some good deals:
http://finderscheapers.com/product-p...ed-1GOI768TJ2J

The Bosch gets good reviews, but I don't know if it has the above the table adjustable height feature?
It does come with the 2 bases in the kit:

http://woodroutercenter.com/bosch-16...router-review/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 02-22-2016 at 10:34 AM.
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post #9 of 45 Old 02-22-2016, 10:28 AM
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have you considered the vertical raised panel bits, they are more suited for smaller router hp's.
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post #10 of 45 Old 02-23-2016, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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have you considered the vertical raised panel bits, they are more suited for smaller router hp's.
Tim, actually I have briefly looked into getting a vertical raised panel bit, and might go that direction. I just need to make sure that if I do go with a vertical raised panel bit, it would need to leave a 1/4" lip on the outside to fit into my stiles. This may be easy like a traditional raised panel bit that you can adjust up or down to get the desired lip on the outside, I don't know. Maybe the lip could be adjusted by the fence position?

If I go with a vertical raised panel bit, would my 2HP Cratsman work ok for this? It has adjustable speed settings
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post #11 of 45 Old 02-23-2016, 07:54 AM
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the vertical bit would offer the same capabilities as the horizontal for edge thickness. yes the bit height an fence position are used. you still do not want to remove all the material in one pass. I use the table saw to remove the bulk (as mentioned earlier). your router will be fine, I use a 1 1/2 hp with these.
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post #12 of 45 Old 02-24-2016, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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the vertical bit would offer the same capabilities as the horizontal for edge thickness. yes the bit height an fence position are used. you still do not want to remove all the material in one pass. I use the table saw to remove the bulk (as mentioned earlier). your router will be fine, I use a 1 1/2 hp with these.
Interesting. Any particular brands that you might recommend for if I purchase a vertical raised panel bit? If I decide to build my own router table, let's assume that this table would only be used with the vertical raised panel bit, are there any special things that I could add to my home made router table that would make it more optimal for this purpose? I could easily do two router tables as I have multiple routers and have a dedicated vertical raised panel bit, and the other just for general router table usage.
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post #13 of 45 Old 02-24-2016, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Danny870 View Post
Interesting. Any particular brands that you might recommend for if I purchase a vertical raised panel bit? If I decide to build my own router table, let's assume that this table would only be used with the vertical raised panel bit, are there any special things that I could add to my home made router table that would make it more optimal for this purpose? I could easily do two router tables as I have multiple routers and have a dedicated vertical raised panel bit, and the other just for general router table usage.
although it may seem that you may never have another use for the router table, it is extremely likely you will down the road.


the brand will fall into the category of you get what you pay for. I usually go middle of the road to high, freud, amana, whiteside.. for the table, you will want a high fence (6" or so) to support the panel vertically as you work it. good luck.
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post #14 of 45 Old 02-24-2016, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Do you guys know any thing or have any opinions on the horizontal router table from MLCS woodworking? It looks pretty cool, and allows the stock to lay flat when routing with a vertical raised panel bit. Pretty neat. I wonder if I could make something like this...? It cost $180 or so, which isn't too bad.
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post #15 of 45 Old 02-25-2016, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I am thinking seriously about ordering the horizontal router table from MLCS. It looks like it would make it much easier to use a vertical raised panel bit as the router is held in the horizontal position so that the panels runs flat and face down on the surface of the table.

When I get ready to make my door panels, after getting the panels glued up, planed, and do the innitial sanding, I will bring them over to the table saw and take off a good bit of the material with it, leaving less work for my router to do the raised panels, and this would allow me to keep my current router, and not have to buy an expensive 3HP unit.

I own two routers so I can dedicate one to this horizontal router table, (most likely my 2HP adjustable speed Craftsman) and build a traditional table for my take my 2.25HP Skill router.
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post #16 of 45 Old 02-25-2016, 11:31 AM
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Do you guys know any thing or have any opinions on the horizontal router table from MLCS woodworking? It looks pretty cool, and allows the stock to lay flat when routing with a vertical raised panel bit. Pretty neat. I wonder if I could make something like this...? It cost $180 or so, which isn't too bad.
there has been several horizontal router station build threads on this board. apologize I can't remember his name. he does a nice job.


so if you are interested in building one, search for it.
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post #17 of 45 Old 02-25-2016, 03:42 PM
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I try to make sense of this and can't. You need to take one of the two stile and rail shapers and make it a dedicated raised panel shaper. Much easier and not as hard on the machine to make stile/rails with a a router table setup. It's a much more complcated setup for raised panels unless your current shapers are under powered...
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post #18 of 45 Old 02-25-2016, 06:02 PM
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there has been several horizontal router station build threads on this board. apologize I can't remember his name. he does a nice job.


so if you are interested in building one, search for it.
AL B Thayer is the one with the table. Pretty slick litte setup too

I need cheaper hobby
etsy.com/shop/projectepicfail
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post #19 of 45 Old 02-26-2016, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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I try to make sense of this and can't. You need to take one of the two stile and rail shapers and make it a dedicated raised panel shaper. Much easier and not as hard on the machine to make stile/rails with a a router table setup. It's a much more complcated setup for raised panels unless your current shapers are under powered...
There are several reasons that I don't want to use my existing two functional shapers for this, for one, I have already invested hundreds of dollars in stile and rail shaper cutters, I now have two stile and rail cutter sets that are different in only the profile cutter, and I have one shaker style stile and rail set. On top of that, one of my shapers is 1/2HP and the other is only 3/4HP, which is a little under powered for my big raised panel cutter. Plus, the vast majority of my clients always choose the same profile for the stiles and rails, meaning that I don't have to tear everything down to change cutters very often. It would be so much better if I could get my old Delta work horse up and running, but so far, I have not been able to do that.

In the mean time, I will do a search and see if I can find a good set of plans for a horizontal router table, otherwise I may go ahead and purchase the MLCS horizontal router table, or, I could buy the used Dewalt DW625 that I came across. I can only afford one at this time, so I will have to do some thinking and decide on either a 3HP Dewalt router, or a horizontal router table from MLCS. Decisions Decisions!
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post #20 of 45 Old 02-26-2016, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Danny870 View Post
Do you guys know any thing or have any opinions on the horizontal router table from MLCS woodworking? It looks pretty cool, and allows the stock to lay flat when routing with a vertical raised panel bit. Pretty neat. I wonder if I could make something like this...? It cost $180 or so, which isn't too bad.

here is a fellow link to his home made version... it is in this forum
a couple of threads down
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/c...sition-127321/
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