Router Table Fence Adjustment - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 04-12-2018, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Router Table Fence Adjustment

My router table is fairly typical I suppose. But I struggle with the fence when I need to adjust it for the correct opening at the bit. Each side of the fence slides on aluminum tracks using hex head bolts with tightening knobs (see attached pics, front and rear view of fence). But the fences get hung up on the bolt heads and sometimes don't slide at all. Does anyone have any advice to fix this issue. Thanks
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post #2 of 14 Old 04-12-2018, 06:32 PM
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You just have to be careful how you move the fence. Both sides have to move the same amount at the same time. It just takes care and patience.

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post #3 of 14 Old 04-12-2018, 07:16 PM
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I originally tried a two piece fence and didn't like the alignment issues. I've been using a hollow one piece fence for the last twenty years and find setup and results to be much better. The fence has a fixed opening of 2 1/4" and has proved fine for all of the bits I've used over the years.

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post #4 of 14 Old 04-12-2018, 08:09 PM
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Remove the fence boards and sand the T-slot the bolt heads ride in, then wax or soap them. I had the same problem with my shop-made fence boards.

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post #5 of 14 Old 04-12-2018, 08:34 PM
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Router Table Fence Adjustment

Are you using a regular bolt? You might try a t-bolt like these:
http://www.rockler.com/t-slot-bolts-...d-t-slot-bolts

They come in at least two different size heads for different sized t-tracks and in different thread sizes. All your favorite distributors sell them.

I use sacrificial sliding fences so that I can have a zero clearance fence when making complex or fragile moldings, it Reduces tear out.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.
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Last edited by Terry Q; 04-12-2018 at 08:38 PM.
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post #6 of 14 Old 04-12-2018, 08:39 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Replace the hex bolts

Use toilet flange bolts or "T" bolts which will not twist in the slots because they have a wider area. Wax will also help as suggested, on any sliding parts. I like a 2 piece fence myself and that's what I have on my router tables. Suction off the back of the table using the dust collector works pretty well.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 14 Old 04-12-2018, 10:28 PM
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I use a piece fence on my router. I see no benefit for the two fence halves to move in and out independent of each other.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #8 of 14 Old 04-13-2018, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-13-2018, 09:26 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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there are occasions ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolman50 View Post
I use a (one)* piece fence on my router. I see no benefit for the two fence halves to move in and out independent of each other.

For instance, on a two piece fence by shimming the rear fence out, you can set the front fence back from the straight bit cutter and the rear fence and "joint" the edge of a workpiece. Using the same technique, you can create a rabbet in the end of a workpiece. It will have the radius of the cutter at the stop point, but that may be desirable. Maybe small variations, but sometimes useful.

* edit

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-13-2018, 02:33 PM
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On a router unlike a table saw, it doesn't really matter if the fence is parallel, sometimes it is easier to just loosen one end so it is snug and move the other end that little bit you need rather than trying to move both ends that "just a jista" as my father used to say.

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post #11 of 14 Old 04-14-2018, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, I like that you can loosen just one end of the fence to make a minute adjustment to the cut. The trick is when you have to use an aux fence in the table slot and achieve the correct fence position while squaring it with the aux fence. It's a delicate adjustment.
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post #12 of 14 Old 04-14-2018, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
For instance, on a two piece fence by shimming the rear fence out, you can set the front fence back from the straight bit cutter and the rear fence and "joint" the edge of a workpiece. Using the same technique, you can create a rabbet in the end of a workpiece. It will have the radius of the cutter at the stop point, but that may be desirable. Maybe small variations, but sometimes useful.

* edit
I have a jointer, so no need to use my router table for jointing.
IMO, the problems associated with a split fence outweigh the benefits. Just something else to get out of adjustment.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #13 of 14 Old 04-14-2018, 11:04 AM
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split fences, two types

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolman50 View Post
I have a jointer, so no need to use my router table for jointing.
IMO, the problems associated with a split fence outweigh the benefits. Just something else to get out of adjustment.
I have never seen two separate fences on a router table. I have seen, and my own fence has two moveable/sliding panels which can be adjusted to open or close the opening for the bit. This is very handy when going from smaller to larger diameter bits. The panels are supported on a single wide aluminum angle which makes for easy positioning.

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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 04-14-2018 at 11:11 AM.
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post #14 of 14 Old 04-15-2018, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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I used the wrong words to describe my router table fence. Mine is a single 2-piece fence mounted on a single T-slot like yours. I adjust the opening between the pieces for the size of the bit I'm using. My problem was sliding the pieces in the T-slot because I'm using bolts with hex heads and they turn and jam in the track.

I did clean and wax the T-slot and it is better, but I will eventually replace the bolts with proper T-slot bolts with the flat heads.

Thanks a bunch for all your help. Happy woodworking!
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