Router Table for Beginning Woodworker? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 09-20-2019, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Router Table for Beginning Woodworker?

Hi, I'm new to woodworking and need to setup a router table. I am going to mount it into my workbench with a homemade wooden fence.

I guess I should get a router lift right? Would a 2 1/4 hp router suffice or do I need to get the 3 HP one?

I was thinking of the Bosch 1617EVS router due to its good reviews on Amazon -- $169. And been looking at the $189 Jessem Rout-R-Lift II to accompany it. (I could 3D print the insert rings for it, so I could save money there -- someone has already made a SCAD file for it on Thingiverse.)


What do ya think? It would be definitely within my budget. It probably would only get occasional hobby use.
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post #2 of 24 Old 09-20-2019, 10:14 AM
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I use the 1617 and it's a great router - can't recommend it enough.

David
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post #3 of 24 Old 09-20-2019, 02:23 PM
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i've used my "low $$$ router table" for 15 years with great results, cost me a few scraps of melamine
as for mounting it in your workbench... if this is your main workbench, look at all the stuff you have on it right now or during a project
it will need to be spotless clean every time you use it, low $$ router table mounts to my workbench, but off to the side
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post #4 of 24 Old 09-20-2019, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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I plan on building a paulk workbench which is a 10" deep torsion box with access points on all sides to store tools and whatever else while you are working on the bench. It's a great way to keep the bench clear. He mounts his in his workbench.
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post #5 of 24 Old 09-20-2019, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodgeekess View Post
Hi, I'm new to woodworking and need to setup a router table. I am going to mount it into my workbench with a homemade wooden fence.

I guess I should get a router lift right? Would a 2 1/4 hp router suffice or do I need to get the 3 HP one?

I was thinking of the Bosch 1617EVS router due to its good reviews on Amazon -- $169. And been looking at the $189 Jessem Rout-R-Lift II to accompany it. (I could 3D print the insert rings for it, so I could save money there -- someone has already made a SCAD file for it on Thingiverse.)


What do ya think? It would be definitely within my budget. It probably would only get occasional hobby use.

A Bosch 1617EVS has a router lift built into the base, and is a real good router, they ever supply the Allen T wrench to raise and lower the router I have two of them. If you watch CPO an internet tool company you can sometimes pick up the 1617 with a fixed and plunge base for $139 it is a recon but it has a better warranty then new ones, I have bought quite a bit of recon tools from all manufacturers from them and they all looked like new


Rockler sells an aluminum base plate predrilled to fit the 1617, if yhou do go that route I would spend the extra money for their template, it is about $10 but the base will fit perfectly in it


I will try to post pictures of the router table I built, it works like the high dollar ones, and I even got a cover for the switch LOL
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post #6 of 24 Old 09-20-2019, 05:28 PM
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I did add more T track. It is built out of Ash with an India Ink finish, looks pretty good for less then $100 The top is doubled 3/4 melamine
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post #7 of 24 Old 09-20-2019, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Catpower, wow thanks for mention CPO Outlets.. checked their web site and they have factory reconditioned Bosch 1617evs (fixed base) for only $116 (with 10% off coupon) free shipping! Combo was a lot more and just need one for router table right now.. so I think I’ll get it.
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post #8 of 24 Old 09-20-2019, 08:55 PM
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If you are thinking about a cast iron table saw instead of a jobsite table saw, you should know that some people put a router table in one end of their table saw. It saves space, but it can be inconvenient and get in the way. Not everyone likes it. You can buy drop-in router tables from the table saw manufacturer or build your own. I plan to build one for my SawStop PCS someday (soon, I hope!). See my comments and links in your table saw thread. If you buy a cast iron saw and decide to hang a router table at one end, be sure that the saw can properly support the weight or has extra legs to prevent a tip-over.

So far, I have made home-brew router tables as needed from scrapwood. I use a Forstner bit to cut a semi-circular notch in the "fence" and a hole in the "table" for the router bit. I bolt the router underneath, and hang the router between the slats of an old Workmate. I use clamps to hold the "fence" down to guide the work. Those quick and dirty router tables usually last long enough to complete the final cut. :-)

Bit guard? Dust collection? Safety switch? They are important considerations. A real router table should have them.
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post #9 of 24 Old 09-20-2019, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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I'm confused.. the refurbished Bosch 1617EVS are called 1617EVS-46 and have different color logo, say Magnesium on them. Are they the same exact router?
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post #10 of 24 Old 09-21-2019, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodgeekess View Post
I'm confused.. the refurbished Bosch 1617EVS are called 1617EVS-46 and have different color logo, say Magnesium on them. Are they the same exact router?
Based on my quick web research, I think that:

1617EVS-46:
* Magnesium base.
* Available as refurbished only?

1617EVS:
* Aluminum base.

Otherwise, they appear to be the same. When I was a teenager, we used to talk about aluminum vs. magnesium backpack frames. Magnesium frames were lighter than aluminum and more expensive. Perhaps a magnesium router base is lighter to maneuver for edge cuts, but I doubt it makes a difference. I would shop based on price and decide whether you want a refurbished router or not.
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post #11 of 24 Old 09-21-2019, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodgeekess View Post
I'm confused.. the refurbished Bosch 1617EVS are called 1617EVS-46 and have different color logo, say Magnesium on them. Are they the same exact router?

Check to make sure it has the router lift built into the base on the magnesium unit, other then that I see no difference it really works pretty slick


And all the refurbished tools I have bought from CPO were like new, I did get a Bosch 3 inch planer that had one scratch on the base but nothing to impede performance



I sometimes wonder where they get them from, I think a lot of them comes from what I consider a low life, they need a specific tool for one job, they will go to a big box buy the tool complete the job then take it back for a refund because they didn't like the tool or some other reason

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post #12 of 24 Old 09-22-2019, 12:38 PM
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I sometimes wonder where they get them from, I think a lot of them comes from what I consider a low life, they need a specific tool for one job, they will go to a big box buy the tool complete the job then take it back for a refund because they didn't like the tool or some other reason
Stand in line at the Costco refund counter, amazing what is returned and ends up at a the local liquidation outlet. Now that fall is here I guess a lot of camping gear will be returned.

Recently someone had several folding tables and stacks of folding chairs, guess it is cheaper than renting if you have the balls to do it.
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post #13 of 24 Old 09-22-2019, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catpower View Post

I sometimes wonder where they get them from, I think a lot of them comes from what I consider a low life, they need a specific tool for one job, they will go to a big box buy the tool complete the job then take it back for a refund because they didn't like the tool or some other reason
During my HD days, we would refer to that as the "unofficial HD tool rental program."

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post #14 of 24 Old 09-22-2019, 01:15 PM
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I have had both dedicated tables and dual purpose setups with the router mounted in a workbench or tables wing over the years. I much prefer a dedicated table, even a very basic arrangement such as mounting the router under a sheet of plywood to the dual purpose set up.

With a router bit sticking up in a work bench it is very easy to bump it, possibly damaging the bit or the project you are working on.

Having it in a table saw wing means you may have to disturb the router setting to make a cut or the fence setting to use the router, which happens more than one may imagine.

Everyone's working habits are different, sometimes it is better to start off as simple as possible and let experience be you guide as to how a shop is arranged.

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post #15 of 24 Old 09-22-2019, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
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I have had both dedicated tables and dual purpose setups with the router mounted in a workbench or tables wing over the years. I much prefer a dedicated table, even a very basic arrangement such as mounting the router under a sheet of plywood to the dual purpose set up.

With a router bit sticking up in a work bench it is very easy to bump it, possibly damaging the bit or the project you are working on.

Having it in a table saw wing means you may have to disturb the router setting to make a cut or the fence setting to use the router, which happens more than one may imagine.

Everyone's working habits are different, sometimes it is better to start off as simple as possible and let experience be you guide as to how a shop is arranged.



If I put one on my table saw I would need another place to pile all the junk I have plied on the end of my table saw



When I bought the Unisaw I thought the long extension table would be useful, all it has been is a place to put my sand paper rack, and other assorted tools, guess it serving a purpose LOL

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post #16 of 24 Old 09-22-2019, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
I have had both dedicated tables and dual purpose setups with the router mounted in a workbench or tables wing over the years. I much prefer a dedicated table, even a very basic arrangement such as mounting the router under a sheet of plywood to the dual purpose set up.



With a router bit sticking up in a work bench it is very easy to bump it, possibly damaging the bit or the project you are working on.



Having it in a table saw wing means you may have to disturb the router setting to make a cut or the fence setting to use the router, which happens more than one may imagine.



Everyone's working habits are different, sometimes it is better to start off as simple as possible and let experience be you guide as to how a shop is arranged.
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post #17 of 24 Old 09-22-2019, 03:21 PM
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There is something about flat surfaces that attracts things.
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post #18 of 24 Old 09-23-2019, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
I have had both dedicated tables and dual purpose setups with the router mounted in a workbench or tables wing over the years. I much prefer a dedicated table, even a very basic arrangement such as mounting the router under a sheet of plywood to the dual purpose set up.

With a router bit sticking up in a work bench it is very easy to bump it, possibly damaging the bit or the project you are working on.

Having it in a table saw wing means you may have to disturb the router setting to make a cut or the fence setting to use the router, which happens more than one may imagine.

Everyone's working habits are different, sometimes it is better to start off as simple as possible and let experience be you guide as to how a shop is arranged.
Helpful comment! I had not thought about disturbing your router table settings when you want to use the table saw.
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post #19 of 24 Old 09-24-2019, 03:17 PM
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Hi Frank,

Recently I build a new workbench with build in router table myself. This works out very well. I will not change it with a dedicated router table unless I have unlimited space.
But how I integrated it in my workbench make that I have more capacity with my router.

I made a video over it. Perhaps you get some inspiration.


Best regards,

Dennis
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post #20 of 24 Old 09-24-2019, 06:20 PM
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When I got my first router, a 1 hp B&D fixed base, I had a piece of plywood with a hole in it for the bit to stick through, and a couple of bolt holes to attach the router. When I needed to use it, one edge got screwed to the edge of my workbench. A piece of 2 X 4 with a notch in it to go around the router bit and two clamps to attach it and keep it from moving was the fence. It had a switch box mounted to the under side of the opposite edge that the router plugged into so I didn't need to use the switch on the router to turn it on and off.

That router table was all I had for almost 10 years, and I made a lot of projects using it. Yes, I had to reach under the table to adjust the bit height, and the fence was a little crude, but I made a lot of projects using that router and router table. I am now about on my 4th router table since then, but it still has no high dollar precision lift. I now own 12 routers too, and that old 1 hp B&D is one of them. It still runs fine, but I tend to use my other more modern routers for most of my work now.

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