Resawing Question - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-16-2014, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Resawing Question

I have a 14" Rockwell band saw. I recently tried to resaw some 4" kiln-dried red oak and the blade wandered way off-center.
I'm using a 93 1/2", 3/8" X 6 tpi. The blade speed on this saw seems pretty slow but it's running with the original motor and isn't overloading at all.
I had the blade pretty tight - even tighter than the gauge indicated for a 3/8" blade. The guides are set according to the owners manual.
Would a 1/2" X 4 blade work better for resawing?
Is this saw capable of such resaw work?
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post #2 of 9 Old 07-16-2014, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10 ga Bob View Post
I have a 14" Rockwell band saw. I recently tried to resaw some 4" kiln-dried red oak and the blade wandered way off-center.
I'm using a 93 1/2", 3/8" X 6 tpi. The blade speed on this saw seems pretty slow but it's running with the original motor and isn't overloading at all.
I had the blade pretty tight - even tighter than the gauge indicated for a 3/8" blade. The guides are set according to the owners manual.
Would a 1/2" X 4 blade work better for resawing?
Is this saw capable of such resaw work?
The 1/2" blade would help but it also needs to be a blade made for resawing. They have only three to four teeth per inch and a larger gullet for removing the dust.
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post #3 of 9 Old 07-17-2014, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
The 1/2" blade would help but it also needs to be a blade made for resawing. They have only three to four teeth per inch and a larger gullet for removing the dust.
What he said. Wider blades resist deflection better, so a 1/2 wide blade will inherently deflect less then a 3/8 blade. As Steve said, a dedicated resaw blade has fewer teeth with much deeper gullets between the teeth. The design helps clear out chips and saw dust much, much faster, leading to a cooler, less stressful cut without the sawdust clogging the kerf and forcing the blade off the cut line
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-17-2014, 03:49 PM
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I always use 3 or 3-4 TPI band saw blade,
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post #5 of 9 Old 07-22-2014, 06:23 PM
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I've had similar issues and yes I would agree your TPI is too high. Also wondering how much power your motor has. 1hp? more? less? and what brand your blade is?
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-23-2014, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GISer3546 View Post
I've had similar issues and yes I would agree your TPI is too high. Also wondering how much power your motor has. 1hp? more? less? and what brand your blade is?

The motor is a Rockwell 1/2 hp - which is probably the biggest part of the problem. The blade came installed on the saw but the other blades I got with the saw were Delta blades.

I think I need a new bandsaw if I want to resaw hardwoods.
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post #7 of 9 Old 07-23-2014, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 10 ga Bob View Post
The motor is a Rockwell 1/2 hp - which is probably the biggest part of the problem. The blade came installed on the saw but the other blades I got with the saw were Delta blades.

I think I need a new bandsaw if I want to resaw hardwoods.
If the saw you have isn't big enough to resaw the wood you want then you probably need a new saw. If though the saw you have is large enough but underpowered I would just put a larger motor on it.
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-23-2014, 09:23 AM
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A more powerful motor would definitely help. But, before you get into that expense, you say the blade you are using came with the saw. Was it new? You might first try a new blade with a lesser tooth count suitable for resawing, and check for the correct blade speed.






.
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post #9 of 9 Old 07-23-2014, 03:12 PM
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I agree with cabinetman, first try a new blade, then possibly a new motor if it bogs down. I don't think a new saw is at all necessary (in fact, many of the new saws are just a copy of your saw made in Taiwan).

I was recently doing some resawing and found this very good article on the topic. It helped me.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/l...ing%20Wood.pdf
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