Resaw Bandsaw Capability - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 12-28-2012, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Resaw Bandsaw Capability

Hello Ladies & Gents. I am new to the site and have no idea who's out there. I look forward good conversation.
Almost 20 years ago I had the good fortune to set up a 1200 sqr.' shop. One of the tools I purchased was a Hitachi CB75F for resawing. There was a local shop that had one and I took material to him before my purchase. His seemed to work ok but after years of living with my purchase I just don't get nice thin veneers that I see promoted by other machines including basic 14" bandsaws with tune up kits.
I will soon move and build a new shop and would like to find a better resaw. Who has a resaw opinion?
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post #2 of 17 Old 12-29-2012, 09:13 AM
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Have you checked the condition of the blade? Dull blade and the need for a tune up can make the best bandsaw run crappy.
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post #3 of 17 Old 12-29-2012, 10:43 AM
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If I were to buy a new bandsaw, especially for re-sawing I would get a Laguna. With one of their King of Re-saw Carbide blades. Not cheap but for re-sawing they are monsters.
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post #4 of 17 Old 12-29-2012, 11:13 AM
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Your Hitachi should be able to re-saw.

Before you consider another machine, I would check the tuning of the saw and as other stated, get a new blade designed for resawing.

First the tuning. This link has the best bandsaw tuning video I have seen from Alex Snodgrass.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ba...e-video-40292/

For a new blade consider a resaw blade from Timberwolf, HighlandHardware's Woodslicer or SuperCutBandsaw.
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post #5 of 17 Old 12-29-2012, 11:15 AM
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poor cuts ?

It's almost always the blade. Your model will take up to a 3" blade according to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-CB75F-Woodworking-115-Volt-1-Phase/dp/B0000223KH/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
A new 3" blade is around $100.00 on the same listing.

If it was working fine then slowly deteriorated, then it's a sure thing the blade is dull. Some bandsaw blades can be resharpened, either by a service or using a Dremel with a chainsaw sharpening stone. I have done this and it takes a while bit you get into a rythm and it goes well. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/b...ing-diy-10872/

Of course there are great machines out there, but unless the money is burning a hole in your pocket or you are drooling over a $2000.00 saw, I'd give a DIY sharpening a try. I have a 19" Grizzly , 3 HP and it was under $2000.00, a great saw.
I also have a CL used $250.00 14" Craftsman which will resaw 5" Oak pretty well. So, it all depends....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #6 of 17 Old 12-29-2012, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input. The saw does have a 3" Hitachi blade. It has been sharpened by a local tool shop with little difference in performance. I really have not shopped for different blades since the big deal of this saw is the 3" blade for stability. I have looked for aftermarket guides like Carter's with no luck. If I decide to keep it I will invest in one of the new aftermarket resaw fences which I believe will help. My question is whether there are better out of the box resaws out there in the same price range or is my generation older unit just as good as the new offerings. I have noticed the Laguna product mentioned a few times as well as Grizzly products. FWW did a shootout of resaws some time back and my saw was not compared against the others so I just don't know where my unit stands.
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post #7 of 17 Old 12-29-2012, 01:07 PM
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I resaw with a 1/2" or 3/4" 2 tpi blade.

I am familiar with the hitachi's and I am not real sure why they have that large of a band on them, the Robinson's resaws I have used had a blade almost that wide, but they were 25hp machines that feed at high rates.
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post #8 of 17 Old 12-29-2012, 01:08 PM
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Here's some reviews

http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-CB75F-...ews/B0000223KH

What concerns me about this saw is the smaller diameter wheels and the 3" wide blade rolling over them causing a lot of flexing of the blade leading to weld failure or fatigue failure....I donno? My buddy has a HUGE resaw bandsaw with a 4" blade and the wheels are about 24" in diameter, 7 1/2 HP motor.

It seems to me the wider the blade the larger the tire/wheel should be. What I do know is that lot of folks use a 1/2" or 3/4" resaw blade, myself includes on a wheel from 14" to 19" with good success. Those blades are cheaper but in industrial settings a carbide blade seems to be the way to go. So, depending on the number of feet you will saw it may not be cost efficient to go carbide.

The wider the blade the more tension is required another issue and then the frame strength comes into play. If it were me I would relegate the Hitachi back to a smaller blade, use it for curve work and get a larger saw for resawing. The blade speed is not very high on your saw, so that could be a limiting factor. The choice and brand of blades is a whole 'nother discussion.

Have you tried a 1/2" blade on your saw? Maybe that would be a first step?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 17 Old 12-29-2012, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-CB75F-...ews/B0000223KH

What concerns me about this saw is the smaller diameter wheels and the 3" wide blade rolling over them causing a lot of flexing of the blade leading to weld failure or fatigue failure....I donno? My buddy has a HUGE resaw bandsaw with a 4" blade and the wheels are about 24" in diameter, 7 1/2 HP motor.

It seems to me the wider the blade the larger the tire/wheel should be. What I do know is that lot of folks use a 1/2" or 3/4" resaw blade, myself includes on a wheel from 14" to 19" with good success. Those blades are cheaper but in industrial settings a carbide blade seems to be the way to go. So, depending on the number of feet you will saw it may not be cost efficient to go carbide.

The wider the blade the more tension is required another issue and then the frame strength comes into play. If it were me I would relegate the Hitachi back to a smaller blade, use it for curve work and get a larger saw for resawing. The blade speed is not very high on your saw, so that could be a limiting factor. The choice and brand of blades is a whole 'nother discussion.

Have you tried a 1/2" blade on your saw? Maybe that would be a first step?
It also states a 15amp, 120 volt, 2.8hp motor

I can't seem to find a manual, but I see that the smallest blade you can put on it, without guide modifications is a 1 1/2" blade.

There sure aren't too many good reviews on this machine, once people start using it.
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post #10 of 17 Old 12-30-2012, 09:28 PM
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post #11 of 17 Old 01-01-2013, 09:14 PM
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My first thought is the saw can't tension that wide of a blade enough.
Band saw's are fairly simple and tuned up, with the right blade it should give decent results.
I would call Louis Iturra (google him and "band saw" to find his phone number) I don't think he has a web site yet.
Tell him your problem, and he will make recommendations. I talked to him once and he was very helpfull, even though he didn't try to sell me anything.
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post #12 of 17 Old 01-04-2013, 01:33 PM
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I'd guess the blade and/or set up could use some attention. However, it's always been my opinion that good, veneer grade re-sawing was as much a function of technique and practice with the saw as it was the equipment. After market fences help certainly but I still lean towards technique. Others will probably shoot holes in my theory though so take it for what it's worth. Now go make some sawdust! :-)
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post #13 of 17 Old 01-09-2013, 04:56 PM
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I believe you know Alex Snodgrass. You should watch his videos. His videos are really informative and helpful. I'm sure you can find the answer to your question on his videos. I also read some blogs about band saw from bandsawblog.com . I use them as a reference.
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post #14 of 17 Old 01-09-2013, 08:33 PM
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Question

Is this a ground level shop....

B,
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post #15 of 17 Old 01-09-2013, 09:30 PM
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I just purchased a Little Ripper from Stockroom Supply. This is a sled like a sawmill ( no fence). I watched the crazy Canadian demonstrate at the Baltimore wood show ant it produced perfect resaws on a low priced 14" saw like I have without the guides set. I was considering a new set if roller guides for$250.00 but I am convinced the sled works better than cutting against the best of fences. I'll let you know when I receive mine next week.

Sent from my iPad using Wood Forum
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post #16 of 17 Old 01-10-2013, 03:22 PM
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For blades, 1/2" - 3/4" with 3-4 TPI bandsaw blades are recommended for resawing.
I'm using 3/4" Haltbar blade for my resaw job. 1hp band saw is good enough for resawing ,at least the minimum.
and 14 inch capacity bandsaw is probably enough for what you need. And lastly , if you are planning
to add guides, Euro styles are strongly advised to use. Read this blog too , that might help you.
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post #17 of 17 Old 01-11-2013, 10:59 AM
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That 14" Hitachi should work great; and unless you have $5,000 to spend on a nice Laguna Resaw master, I would invest in what you have with the best blade you can find.
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