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Replacement Motor Needed

3K views 30 replies 10 participants last post by  FrankC 
#1 ·
The motor on my Rikon 6" Jointer, model 20-110 is dead. I contacted Rikon and since they no longer make the model they no longer have that motor, or according to them, any motor that will fit. It is a 1.5hp, 3400rpm, 110/220 motor with a 5/8 spindle. I've looked all over on line and the problem is this motor came out before the new "high efficiency" models so everything I am finding is too long to fit in the cabinet and even if I keep the back of the cabinet open the pulley will be too far out to fully line up with the upper pulley (oh and the mounting holes don't line up either). I've even gone to e-bay and searched "used". I really need some help here. My 5 year old grandson and woodworking partner really wants to get going on our new project.

Thanks so much in advance.
 
#2 ·
What kind of information is on the motor plate, does it give a frame number, if so that will help to match it up, otherwise you may have to do a bit of re-engineering to mount a motor.

Depending how far the holes are out sometimes a couple lengths of flat iron with a bit of drilling and taping can be used to make a new mount for another style mount:
 

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#10 ·
The plate on the motor has the following information: Volts - 110/220, Input - 1 1/2 hp, RPM - 3400, Hertz - 50, Amps - 12/6, Class - B.

I checked with Rikon and found it is a 56 Frame. The problem is, every motor I am finding is just too long (even with the correct frame number because that only measures from the plate to the end of the spindle and does not account for the size to the other end.) If I could find one with a different frame size I agree that redrilling the base plate would not be hard but I just can't find that size motor.
 

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#4 ·
Look on the motor data plate ...

It will show a frame type... 56 is very typical. It has a standardized bolt pattern and motor shaft sizes. See this article..... frame:
http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/grinder-motors.html


Quote:
56
A 56 frame motor will have foot mount holes at 3" x 4-7/8" and 5/8" (0.625") diameter shaft.
 
#16 ·
It will show a frame type... 56 is very typical. It has a standardized bolt pattern and motor shaft sizes. See this article..... frame:
http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/grinder-motors.html


Quote:
56
A 56 frame motor will have foot mount holes at 3" x 4-7/8" and 5/8" (0.625") diameter shaft.
It is a 56 frame. The problem is all the new ones have much longer motors. The frame measurement only accounts from the mounting bracket to the end of the spindle. They added all the length to the other size. So, if I could open the front of the cabinet and let the motor stick out then all would be well. But...
 
#6 ·
Manual (I assume) for this machine: https://www.rikontools.com/partslist/20110.pdf

What does "dead" mean? It doesn't even try to turn over, or is just slow, or without torque? What troubleshooting did you perform to verify it's the motor? Did you check the power switch and wiring?

Cleaning the commutator and replacing the brushes may be all you need, especially on older motors from before they were packed with extra electronics. Finding the parts, though ...
 
#14 ·
Yes, that is the specific model and dead means just that, not working at all. No noise, no attempt to turn, nothing. I checked all the wiring from the wall to the capacitor and it was all good. As far as changing things inside the motor, that is beyond my skills (wish that were not true, but...) Not sure what the commutator is or where to find it. I know what brushes are and what they do but changing them, or even finding them, ...
 
#13 ·
I checked all the wiring and the capacitor and they were fine. It does not have a reset/overload button (I wish it did). The switch on the jointer is fine. I tracked the electricity from the wire coming in, through the switch, up to the motor, to the capacitor and it was all good. I am not that good with electric things so I don't know how to check the switch (which actually looks like something from my computer inerds) that I was told is inside of it.
 
#8 ·
Single phase motors commonly have a switch inside the rear cover that switches between the start windings and the run windings. They are prone to failure by the contacts getting something that prevents them from making contact. Easy to check, watch out you don't drop the little wave spring in the end of the housing.
 
#22 ·
#26 · (Edited)
That's not a good one!

Looks like I found one! Here is the link.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/171796752665
Thanks to everyone for all their help, suggestions, and my education.

That's a compressor duty motor, not meant for power tools. I can't recall the reasons why, I just know it's not correct. A farm duty motor would be good and that's what I recommended.


Look here at these Craftsman motors:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr....TRS0&_nkw=Craftsman+table+saw+motor&_sacat=0



Or these:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=farm+duty+1.5+HP+motor&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=farm+duty+1+1%2F2+HP+motor


Or these:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr..._TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=TEC+1.5+HP+motor


You have to watch the RPMs and use the correct pulleys to get the proper RPM and cutter head speed in cuts per minute.



https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/jointer-rpm-80281/


Here's the specs for a 6" Grizzly jointer:

  • Cutterhead speed: 5000 RPM
  • Cutterhead diameter: 2-1/2"
  • Maximum depth of cut: 1/8"
  • Maximum rabbeting depth: 1/2"
  • Cuts per minute: 15,000
:vs_cool:


http://vintagemachinery.org/math/cpm.aspx
 
#29 ·
Depending which site you go to compressor duty motors are either a superior or inferior type of motor.

I picked up a 2HP compressor duty motor on sale for a ridiculous price when my table saw motor burned out, it lasted about 30 minutes cutting 1/2" mdf.

Took it back, clerk I know personally asked if it was on a table saw when he saw some sawdust on it, I replied, no, compressor was sitting behind my saw. He smiled and wrote up the refund, then warned me not to pick up another compressor duty motor for my saw because it won't last either.

My experience, take it for what it is worth.
 
#30 ·
I read about others having the same problem and the agreed upon solution was, don't use a compressor motor on a table saw because the dust generated will kill it quickly. It seems that the compressor motors are not TEFC and that allows for the dust generated by some tools to heat them up and kill them. For me, the motor will be fully enclosed under the jointer so I am hoping dust won't be a problem. But, only time will tell.
 
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