Replacement Motor Needed - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 31 Old 11-12-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Replacement Motor Needed

The motor on my Rikon 6" Jointer, model 20-110 is dead. I contacted Rikon and since they no longer make the model they no longer have that motor, or according to them, any motor that will fit. It is a 1.5hp, 3400rpm, 110/220 motor with a 5/8 spindle. I've looked all over on line and the problem is this motor came out before the new "high efficiency" models so everything I am finding is too long to fit in the cabinet and even if I keep the back of the cabinet open the pulley will be too far out to fully line up with the upper pulley (oh and the mounting holes don't line up either). I've even gone to e-bay and searched "used". I really need some help here. My 5 year old grandson and woodworking partner really wants to get going on our new project.

Thanks so much in advance.
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post #2 of 31 Old 11-12-2019, 07:19 PM
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What kind of information is on the motor plate, does it give a frame number, if so that will help to match it up, otherwise you may have to do a bit of re-engineering to mount a motor.

Depending how far the holes are out sometimes a couple lengths of flat iron with a bit of drilling and taping can be used to make a new mount for another style mount:
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post #3 of 31 Old 11-12-2019, 07:34 PM
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look at the frame designation, better yet just post up a pic of the motor data plate
frame designation typically states the base mount and shaft size

the manual didn't give anything but looks like any motor you can fit will work
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post #4 of 31 Old 11-12-2019, 07:45 PM
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Look on the motor data plate ...

It will show a frame type... 56 is very typical. It has a standardized bolt pattern and motor shaft sizes. See this article..... frame:
http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/grinder-motors.html


Quote:
56
A 56 frame motor will have foot mount holes at 3" x 4-7/8" and 5/8" (0.625") diameter shaft.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 31 Old 11-13-2019, 11:24 AM
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I am sure you could get it repaired at a local electric motor repair shop for less than a new replacement. Could be something simple and not a complete overhaul.

Gary
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post #6 of 31 Old 11-13-2019, 12:30 PM
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Manual (I assume) for this machine: https://www.rikontools.com/partslist/20110.pdf

What does "dead" mean? It doesn't even try to turn over, or is just slow, or without torque? What troubleshooting did you perform to verify it's the motor? Did you check the power switch and wiring?

Cleaning the commutator and replacing the brushes may be all you need, especially on older motors from before they were packed with extra electronics. Finding the parts, though ...
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post #7 of 31 Old 11-13-2019, 12:49 PM
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I assume that it is an induction motor (no brushes). Check the simple things first... Circuit on ?, wire connections?, Switch working?, Does it have a circuit breaker (overload protection) button?, external capacitor?

Gary
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post #8 of 31 Old 11-13-2019, 01:14 PM
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Single phase motors commonly have a switch inside the rear cover that switches between the start windings and the run windings. They are prone to failure by the contacts getting something that prevents them from making contact. Easy to check, watch out you don't drop the little wave spring in the end of the housing.
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post #9 of 31 Old 11-13-2019, 09:37 PM
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Here is a motor like you want in Nashville's Craigs List.

https://nashville.craigslist.org/tls...019361238.html

Don in Murfreesboro, TN.
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post #10 of 31 Old 11-14-2019, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
What kind of information is on the motor plate, does it give a frame number, if so that will help to match it up, otherwise you may have to do a bit of re-engineering to mount a motor.

Depending how far the holes are out sometimes a couple lengths of flat iron with a bit of drilling and taping can be used to make a new mount for another style mount:
The plate on the motor has the following information: Volts - 110/220, Input - 1 1/2 hp, RPM - 3400, Hertz - 50, Amps - 12/6, Class - B.

I checked with Rikon and found it is a 56 Frame. The problem is, every motor I am finding is just too long (even with the correct frame number because that only measures from the plate to the end of the spindle and does not account for the size to the other end.) If I could find one with a different frame size I agree that redrilling the base plate would not be hard but I just can't find that size motor.
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post #11 of 31 Old 11-14-2019, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Schweitzer View Post
Single phase motors commonly have a switch inside the rear cover that switches between the start windings and the run windings. They are prone to failure by the contacts getting something that prevents them from making contact. Easy to check, watch out you don't drop the little wave spring in the end of the housing.
I took the motor to a repair place and they mentioned the same thing. Oh, I did drop the spring but I still have it. If I can't find a new one I am going to have them try and repair it. Expensive, but so is a new motor.
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post #12 of 31 Old 11-14-2019, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkeye10 View Post
Here is a motor like you want in Nashville's Craigs List.

https://nashville.craigslist.org/tls...019361238.html
That looks great and I really do appreciate you finding it for me but the spindle on the other side would make it not fit in the metal cabinet. Now, if I could find one like that with out the second spindle...
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post #13 of 31 Old 11-14-2019, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
I assume that it is an induction motor (no brushes). Check the simple things first... Circuit on ?, wire connections?, Switch working?, Does it have a circuit breaker (overload protection) button?, external capacitor?
I checked all the wiring and the capacitor and they were fine. It does not have a reset/overload button (I wish it did). The switch on the jointer is fine. I tracked the electricity from the wire coming in, through the switch, up to the motor, to the capacitor and it was all good. I am not that good with electric things so I don't know how to check the switch (which actually looks like something from my computer inerds) that I was told is inside of it.
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post #14 of 31 Old 11-14-2019, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AwesomeOpossum74 View Post
Manual (I assume) for this machine: https://www.rikontools.com/partslist/20110.pdf

What does "dead" mean? It doesn't even try to turn over, or is just slow, or without torque? What troubleshooting did you perform to verify it's the motor? Did you check the power switch and wiring?

Cleaning the commutator and replacing the brushes may be all you need, especially on older motors from before they were packed with extra electronics. Finding the parts, though ...
Yes, that is the specific model and dead means just that, not working at all. No noise, no attempt to turn, nothing. I checked all the wiring from the wall to the capacitor and it was all good. As far as changing things inside the motor, that is beyond my skills (wish that were not true, but...) Not sure what the commutator is or where to find it. I know what brushes are and what they do but changing them, or even finding them, ...
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post #15 of 31 Old 11-14-2019, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
I am sure you could get it repaired at a local electric motor repair shop for less than a new replacement. Could be something simple and not a complete overhaul.
That is what I am looking at right now. I'm being told they charge $100.00 per hour and it could be just an hour or several. Either way, unless I can find a used one it seems I will be getting it repaired.
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post #16 of 31 Old 11-14-2019, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
It will show a frame type... 56 is very typical. It has a standardized bolt pattern and motor shaft sizes. See this article..... frame:
http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/grinder-motors.html


Quote:
56
A 56 frame motor will have foot mount holes at 3" x 4-7/8" and 5/8" (0.625") diameter shaft.
It is a 56 frame. The problem is all the new ones have much longer motors. The frame measurement only accounts from the mounting bracket to the end of the spindle. They added all the length to the other size. So, if I could open the front of the cabinet and let the motor stick out then all would be well. But...
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post #17 of 31 Old 11-14-2019, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
What kind of information is on the motor plate, does it give a frame number, if so that will help to match it up, otherwise you may have to do a bit of re-engineering to mount a motor.

Depending how far the holes are out sometimes a couple lengths of flat iron with a bit of drilling and taping can be used to make a new mount for another style mount:
I would be able to do this but when I search for a 1.5hp, 110/220, 3400 rpm motor, they all come back too big, regardless of the mounting size.
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post #18 of 31 Old 11-14-2019, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you to everyone for all the very helpful suggestions. I really do appreciate it. I am going to give one more look today for a motor and then take it in and try to have it repaired. I will keep ya updated!

Thanks again.
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post #19 of 31 Old 11-14-2019, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greengas View Post
That looks great and I really do appreciate you finding it for me but the spindle on the other side would make it not fit in the metal cabinet. Now, if I could find one like that with out the second spindle...
You could have it cut off, maybe using a horizontal bandsaw. It could be done with a cutting torch but that might put too much heat inside the motor.

Don in Murfreesboro, TN.
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post #20 of 31 Old 11-14-2019, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hawkeye10 View Post
You could have it cut off, maybe using a horizontal bandsaw. It could be done with a cutting torch but that might put too much heat inside the motor.
Do you think a hand held grinder would work or again too much heat?
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