Sharpening quality as it relates to cut quality may be a differentiator between premium blades and less expensive blades. I was shopping at the local Rockler store when the Freud representative came in. He asked me about the blades I use and I told him that I had Forrest blades. He commented that Forrest makes excellent blades, but where they really stand out is the quality of their sharpening. He said that if I took my Forrest blades to an ordinary resharpener, I would get an ordinary blade back. Keep in mind that his company competes with Forrest, but some of the members here have backed up that statement. (I send my blades to Forrest for resharpening. Forrest will resharpen other brands of blades, too.)
In addition to perceived cut quality, another reason you may want a premium blade is that they are made with thicker carbide teeth. You can resharpen those premium blades many times before they are used up, which brings the overall cost of ownership more in line with cheaper blades. Cheaper blades are often treated as consumable items, because the cost of buying a new blade isn't much more than the cost of resharpening it.
The carbide teeth are not the only parts that are thicker in premium blades. The blade bodies on premium blades are also thicker and more massive than blade bodies on cheaper blades. That's true for thin kerf blades as well. The extra mass reduces vibration and leads to smoother cuts. (Would adding a blade stabilizer/dampener to a cheap blade yield the same results? I don't know.)
Fine Woodworking Magazine Test Results:
The March/April 2018 issue of Fine Woodworking magazine has an article comparing "Combination Sawblades." Despite the article's title and text, the author actually tested general purpose blades, with evenly spaced teeth and gullets. You can see "General Purpose" printed on each blade in the photos.
The author compared eight full kerf blades. The author tested crosscut quality in pine, cherry, and plywood, and rip quality in pine and cherry. He also measured rip speed in 8/4 maple. The author awarded "Best Overall" and "Best Value" to the Freud Premier Fusion P410, but it may not be your best choice, because rip speeds were markedly slower than the other blades. He also awarded "Best Overall" to the Forrest Woodworker II and the Ridge Carbide TS2000.
If I were doing a lot of rip cuts in thick hardwoods, I would buy a true rip blade for the best cuts.
If you are thinking about buying a Forrest Woodworker II, consider getting the "Modified #6 grind" version. It is a general purpose blade with evenly spaced teeth and standard gullets. The tooth geometry still uses ATB, but the "modified" difference is that every fifth tooth is a raker tooth, which yields better, faster rip cuts.
(You can also get it in a thin kerf version, which is the one that I have.)