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post #41 of 60 Old 12-04-2010, 06:28 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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That probably was me...Yup

My old Craftsman saws are about 1/8" thick so there are 2 solutions1. Just rip some 1/8" strip the same width as the slot and then sand and round the end to fit. You will still need a backer plate to support the thin strip and use hot glue to hold it in place. Easy. Here's the thread:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/m...-insert-10147/
2. The other approach is to make a template and rout out the original throat plate contour with a straight bit and rub bearing. Then relieve the top lip to the "thinness" you need on the router table. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 12-04-2010 at 10:04 PM.
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post #42 of 60 Old 12-04-2010, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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This is similar to the post I had seen however much easier to accomplish. Thanks a ton...

Edit: I was just looking at my saw and it looks like the blade doesn't go very far down below the table. The rag I was wiping it with actually catches the blade. Not sure how that will work trying to make a ZCTP. I'm hoping something is just stuck and the blade will down a bit further.

Edit: I did find a site that supposedly manufactures throat plates (Model #HT-1) for this saw. They aren't cheap but if the blade doesn't go down into the saw far enough it might make an acceptable though pricey solution.

Lance

Last edited by Robertsonland; 12-04-2010 at 06:50 PM. Reason: Added further comments
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post #43 of 60 Old 12-04-2010, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robertsonland View Post
HA! That would be nice...I need to get a good blade for it. I'm gonna be cutting some MDF right away so I'll continue to use my Freud 60T blade that I had on my old crappy saw that I may have cut 10BF. I was hoping by only doing 600 on the saw I could afford a nice WWII blade or something. What are the good recomendations for blades?

Lance
The best blade for you depends on your preferences, and what you'll be cutting. Your saw will have an easier time spinning 3/32" thin kerf blades. Tips for picking a saw blade

Forrest certainly makes some great blades, but are usually among the more expensive options. Infinity also offers some of the best blades I've tried to date...their 010-150 50T Combomax Lite is excellent and is on sale for ~ $50 with discount code "BFCM1010". Freud, CMT, DeWalt, Tenryu, Ridge Carbide, Amana, and others also have some good choices, but it's important recognize that each offers many models from multiple series, and not all are a great choice for your needs.

While not the best performers on the market, the Freud Diablo series are generally considered an excellent bang for the buck if thin kerf blades will suit your needs....the Ridgid Titanium series is similar (also by Freud AFAIK). The DeWalt Precision Trim series is another good value line.

I would avoid the Irwin Marathon, Classic, and Sprint lines, the DeWalt construction series, Oldham construction series, Skil, Workforce, Vermont American, the new "Avanti" and "Avanti Pro" line from HD (no longer made by Freud), most Ryobi, and many of the other poorly made disposable construction grade blades commonly found at the big box stores that aren't well suited for fine woodworking.
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post #44 of 60 Old 12-04-2010, 10:06 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Use a smaller dia blade!

You said:
Edit: I was just looking at my saw and it looks like the blade doesn't go very far down below the table. The rag I was wiping it with actually catches the blade. Not sure how that will work trying to make a ZCTP. I'm hoping something is just stuck and the blade will down a bit further.


Just put in a 7 /4" construction blade and raise it up into the ZCTP. Easy! bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #45 of 60 Old 12-04-2010, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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knoscott,

Well right now I'm trying to complete the control panel for an arcade cabinet and have been waiting for the table saw to cut modular panels out of 3/4 MDF. I need them as accurate as possible since they will be sliding into slots depending on what game I'm playing. It will also need to have a nice sharp edge on it. Maybe a nice Thin Kerf will do me. I've been happy with the 60T Diablo I have that I bought at HD and the CMT 80T I found a review about looks good too for only around $60. I know MDF is rough on them but I'm going to be making about 10 of the 4" panels and 4 of the 6" panels so I may just cut one panel of each size then use a router to edge the rest of them based on the one panel. Beyond that I cut mostly plywood and the like so nothing too "hardwood" oriented.

woodnthings,
But wouldn't using another blade not make it truly zero clearance as the blade kerfs might be slightly different? Not saying it would be a huge deal, just the opening would have to be slightly wider if I can't get the saw blade down low enough.

Lance
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post #46 of 60 Old 12-12-2010, 05:26 AM
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The HT-1 Insert Is Worth The $

I have a PCB270TS and my blade only retracts .2" below the top of the insert. After trying unsuccessfully to make my own zero clearance insert, I recently purchased the Leecraft HT-1. The HT-1 has a recessed area on the bottom side so the blade won't touch when it is fully lowered.


Although a bit pricey, the HT-1 fits perfectly and as well made.
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post #47 of 60 Old 12-12-2010, 08:00 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Your blade should retract fully

Lance,
I'd look for a reason that it won't, an obstruction possibly.
As far as the kerf width sure, you'd want the same width kerf in your construction blade or plywood blade as your main woodworking blade. There are times when a smaller diameter blade is required for oddball cuts like this for a hinge link mortise. It needed to be shallow and narrow:




The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 12-12-2010 at 08:18 AM.
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post #48 of 60 Old 12-12-2010, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sightandsounds View Post
I have a PCB270TS and my blade only retracts .2" below the top of the insert. After trying unsuccessfully to make my own zero clearance insert, I recently purchased the Leecraft HT-1. The HT-1 has a recessed area on the bottom side so the blade won't touch when it is fully lowered.

Although a bit pricey, the HT-1 fits perfectly and as well made.
Thanks for this info. It's good to know that it at least works. I'm not sure why the saw only retracts so little below the saw but at least there is some ability to get a ZCTP.

Lance
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post #49 of 60 Old 03-05-2011, 12:23 AM
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Extensions and fence for PCB270

I really like what I hear about this saw and it fits what I need. I took a brief look at Lowes and can't say I like the stamped extensions nor the fence. It made an otherwise decent saw feel like a portable saw. I do plan on upgrading them but the question will be timing.

Questions:

1) does anyone have good experiences with the fence?

2) I noticed that this table is 27 1/8th on the specs. Most cast iron extensions are 27" I think. Does PC or Hitachi offer them?

3) if I upgrade to t-style fence like the delta, would it require cast iron extensions to mount it to?

4) I may at some point want to make this more portable and get it on a stand like the DeWalt. Is there anything about this saw that would prevent that? I am not worried about the weight, more so any configuration issues with the motor or anything else I might be missing.

Thanks!

-Sean
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post #50 of 60 Old 03-05-2011, 01:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean View Post
I really like what I hear about this saw and it fits what I need. I took a brief look at Lowes and can't say I like the stamped extensions nor the fence. It made an otherwise decent saw feel like a portable saw. I do plan on upgrading them but the question will be timing.

Questions:

1) does anyone have good experiences with the fence?

2) I noticed that this table is 27 1/8th on the specs. Most cast iron extensions are 27" I think. Does PC or Hitachi offer them?

3) if I upgrade to t-style fence like the delta, would it require cast iron extensions to mount it to?

4) I may at some point want to make this more portable and get it on a stand like the DeWalt. Is there anything about this saw that would prevent that? I am not worried about the weight, more so any configuration issues with the motor or anything else I might be missing.

Thanks!

-Sean
By the time you upgrade the wings and fence, you might as well get this.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-H...-Series/G0715P

Ive had mine for less than a week and I'm allready in love with it!!
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post #51 of 60 Old 03-06-2011, 12:50 AM
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darn good saw

I have had this saw for a few months now. The fence is rock solid when locked down. The fine adjustment wheels also work very well. I am using a Porter Cable blade and get grate cuts even cross grain in plywood. A while back there was a lot of talk about being able to stand a nickel on edge on the table of a good saw while it was running. I stood a dime on edge before starting the saw then started the saw, let it run a couple minutes and shut it off. The dime was still standing. It doesn't get any smoother than that. As mar as the wings, unless you are planning on throwing stuff down on them, they are just fine. No regrets buying this saw.
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post #52 of 60 Old 03-06-2011, 01:26 AM
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Extensions and fence for PCB270

That Grizzly saw is an amazing price per feature and normally I agree with you but I have a requirement (due to a small shop) that I to pull it outside every now and then. (not load it in a truck, but just wheel it outside my shop) That Grizzly is quite heavy and requires a special circuit breaker for 110. I have 220 on my current saw so that wouldn't be an issue but if I want something flexible and moveable, that wouldn't fit the bill.

Part of the reason for looking at the 270 is that it is heavier than portable saws but not so awful as to be a burden.

Enjoy your saw, looks pretty sweet.
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post #53 of 60 Old 03-06-2011, 01:33 AM
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The mobile base is only 60 bucks I believe and this saw would move with ease on wheels.

I am enjoying it. Its sweet!!

RRBrown, knottscott and many others were banned, they didn't just leave. They were banned for standing up to the new owners that are destroying this site. Come join us all at woodworking chat, the best new woodworking site on the net!!
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post #54 of 60 Old 03-06-2011, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean View Post
I really like what I hear about this saw and it fits what I need. I took a brief look at Lowes and can't say I like the stamped extensions nor the fence. It made an otherwise decent saw feel like a portable saw. I do plan on upgrading them but the question will be timing.

Questions:

1) does anyone have good experiences with the fence?

2) I noticed that this table is 27 1/8th on the specs. Most cast iron extensions are 27" I think. Does PC or Hitachi offer them?

3) if I upgrade to t-style fence like the delta, would it require cast iron extensions to mount it to?

4) I may at some point want to make this more portable and get it on a stand like the DeWalt. Is there anything about this saw that would prevent that? I am not worried about the weight, more so any configuration issues with the motor or anything else I might be missing.

Thanks!

-Sean
I don't think you'd need to add cast iron wings to add the T2 fence, but it will add at least $156 to the bill...the Griz comes with a nicer upgraded fence than the PC's.... somewhat similar to the T2. A mobile base can be built or purchased for nearly any saw....moving it around shouldn't be a problem.

Last edited by knotscott; 03-06-2011 at 07:39 AM.
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post #55 of 60 Old 06-16-2011, 11:19 PM
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Sorry to open up a very old thread. I recently purchased this saw and wanted to add some information to this thread since it's the first search result when googling for the model number.

Anyways, whenever I got my saw home I assembled it by myself (took about 3 hours.) Assembly was straight forward and fairly easy.

After getting everything setup I put my dial indicator on it and found that the miter slots were off about .009" from the blade. Like others have done I attempted to loosen up the table but I was unable to budge it. So...I removed the table and opened up the holes using a 3/8" bit. Also I elongated the holes along a 45 degree angle to provide some additional room. From there I lightly hit them with a rasp to smooth out the top. I also purchased some hardened washers and replaced the wimpy ones on the bolts. Now the miter slot is about 0.0005" out from the blade...which I believe is acceptable!

Anyways, just wanted to confirm that the saw does indeed have cabinet mounted trunnions. They're not super beefy but they are cabinet mounted.

Attached are a couple of images from when I removed the table. The hardest part was getting the blade angle gauge reinstalled (and removed for that matter.) To remove it I loosened one of the tension bolts on it and then disconnected the tape and pulled it out of the table. To reinstall it I took some electric tape and doubled it back on itself and pushed it through the slot. Then I pulled it apart and stuck the angle gauge to it and pulled it through the slot in the top of the table.

The fence seems to be a little fickle. Initially the back of the fence was .050" TOWARDs the blade at the back of the fence, which made for a very dangerous situation and even kicked back the first piece of wood I put through the saw. Thankfully it missed me and was only a small piece of 2x4.

Hope this helps someone trying to get their saw situated!

Jared
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Last edited by averen; 06-16-2011 at 11:22 PM.
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post #56 of 60 Old 06-17-2011, 07:13 AM
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Welcome to WWT. Those are excellent pics of the PCB270TS trunnions and table mount system. Thanks for posting them. Is it fairly easy to remove the sheet metal sides?

If you don't mind another question, perhaps you can clarify another question about this saw...I've read that the elevation gear is a non-metalic material like Delrin®, Nylon, or plastic of some sort. Can you confirm?
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post #57 of 60 Old 06-17-2011, 09:37 AM
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The sides are very easy to remove. There are 6 machine screws that hold the back on and 9 that hold the right side panel on (as viewed from the front of the machine.) The front panel and left panel would be more difficult to remove since both have other things attached to them.

I'll check on the lift gears this weekend as I need to get back in there and adjust the riving knife. The tilt gears are definitely plastic of some sort and not very smooth, but they seem to get the job done. There's a "clunking" feel when adjusting the tilt. Feels like one of the gears isn't completely round or that there might be some flashing left from the molding process. I considered putting some type of lubrication on them but then decided not to since it would just attract massive amounts of dust!

Jared
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post #58 of 60 Old 06-17-2011, 10:52 AM
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Jared - Thanks for the additional info.

You can get a can of white lithium spray grease that sprays on wet and dries like a hard wax. Highly recommended for TS gears and doesn't attract dust the way grease does.
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post #59 of 60 Old 06-17-2011, 11:06 AM
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Just my thinkin' here

Quote:
Originally Posted by averen View Post
..... There's a "clunking" feel when adjusting the tilt. Feels like one of the gears isn't completely round or that there might be some flashing left from the molding process. I considered putting some type of lubrication on them but then decided not to since it would just attract massive amounts of dust!
Jared
I think that if the gears are nylon there is no need for additional lubrication. Pretty low coefficient of friction between them as is. It's a shame that the saw manufacturers/engineers.designers didn't figure out that the dust and chips will settle and build up on the low resting spaces between the teeth and then get packed into them the next time the gear meshes with it's mate. A rubber boot that surrounds the assembly but still allows for rotating parts would be idea, like shock absorber boots. The dust definitely gets packed into the gears on my Craftsaman saws and it's a PITA to clean them out. A dust collect is a must to keep things rotating and moving well. I blast high pressure air into the entire cabinet with the DC running every so often.
That seems to help. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #60 of 60 Old 10-11-2011, 08:45 AM
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Porter Cable recommends using graphite or silicone lubricant on any exposed gears.

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
I think that if the gears are nylon there is no need for additional lubrication. Pretty low coefficient of friction between them as is. It's a shame that the saw manufacturers/engineers.designers didn't figure out that the dust and chips will settle and build up on the low resting spaces between the teeth and then get packed into them the next time the gear meshes with it's mate. A rubber boot that surrounds the assembly but still allows for rotating parts would be idea, like shock absorber boots. The dust definitely gets packed into the gears on my Craftsaman saws and it's a PITA to clean them out. A dust collect is a must to keep things rotating and moving well. I blast high pressure air into the entire cabinet with the DC running every so often.
That seems to help. bill
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