Outfeed table suggestions - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 10-06-2018, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Outfeed table suggestions

Like alot of fences mine has a angle iron bracket on the outfeed side for the fence to lock against and roll on. (see pic below) I want my outfeed table to butt up to my saw table. I also dont see any way to do this unless I either buy a different style fence or modify my existing one.
Any suggestions?


[IMG][/IMG]

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post #2 of 19 Old 10-06-2018, 07:01 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Now is the time ...

That fence is the worst possible design/engineering. The best fences lock up only on the front rail. JMO

I've owned both types and had nothing but trouble getting this style to lock up parallel to the slots. On a good fence, the back end should just "float" when slid along and then when locked to a beefy front rail, it with square up exactly each time. Biesemeyer's and Unifence are what I own, but there are clones that work well.

My outfeed table on the triple 12" saws, butt right up to the saw table, no gap and that's they way I like it. So, now's the time for you to make right.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-06-2018 at 07:05 PM.
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post #3 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
That fence is the worst possible design/engineering. The best fences lock up only on the front rail. JMO

I've owned both types and had nothing but trouble getting this style to lock up parallel to the slots. On a good fence, the back end should just "float" when slid along and then when locked to a beefy front rail, it with square up exactly each time. Biesemeyer's and Unifence are what I own, but there are clones that work well.

My outfeed table on the triple 12" saws, butt right up to the saw table, no gap and that's they way I like it. So, now's the time for you to make right.
That is about what I thought but was hoping for a different option. The fence I have now is very accurate but its in the way. After reading your post I looked into the biesmeyer fences but to be honest they have some pretty horrible reviews since 2015 or so.
Max Tool has the Shop Fox Aluma Classic fence with 7' rails and support legs for only $319.99 and for $281.75 at toolsandmore.us . From the reviews ive read the biggest problem is getting the fence but not the rails. Some kind of snafu in shipping and it being a 2 box shipment but the fence box says it contains fence rails and all. Dont think I can beat those prices unless I build the rail section myself from local suppliers of angle iron and steel tubing.

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post #4 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 10:10 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Apparently Biesemeyer quality has dropped!

You are right about the reviews being horrible. In that case I would look into this brand:
https://vsctools.com/shop/product-ca...ble-saw-fence/

https://vsctools.com/shop/table-saw-fence/
Great reviews on this fence. Remember that the fence is the heart of the table saw and you may adjust it 20 times or more making a single project. Pay up now to avoid frustration later.
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Last edited by woodnthings; 10-07-2018 at 11:06 AM.
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post #5 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 10:55 AM
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I had the same issue with my saw. It's a nice fence (Vega) that only locks in the front, but there is a metal brace on it that hooks over the rear rail to keep the fence from rising up if you use hold downs (which I do).

I solved it by supporting the outfeed table from underneath and spacing it back from the saw top by about an inch. An outfeed table doesn't have to be flush with the back side of the saw.
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post #6 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 11:16 AM
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Disagree... kinda

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maylar View Post
I had the same issue with my saw. It's a nice fence (Vega) that only locks in the front, but there is a metal brace on it that hooks over the rear rail to keep the fence from rising up if you use hold downs (which I do).

I solved it by supporting the outfeed table from underneath and spacing it back from the saw top by about an inch. An outfeed table doesn't have to be flush with the back side of the saw.

If it's not flush all kinds of chips and corruption can fall into the gap and possibly prevent a through pass. Better safe than sorry AND a new front rail locking fence will solve that issue.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 12:19 PM
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If you like the saw then I'd recommend updating the rails and fence. I have the VSCTools fence and made my own rails. Couldn't be happier. My fence floats just over the outfeed table. There's also no gap between the saw table and the outfeed table.
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post #8 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
If it's not flush all kinds of chips and corruption can fall into the gap and possibly prevent a through pass. Better safe than sorry AND a new front rail locking fence will solve that issue.
I agree, if possible, but if you don't want to spring for a new fence make the gap so it is open so the chips and corruption can fall through.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #9 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maylar View Post
An outfeed table doesn't have to be flush with the back side of the saw.
i have to agree with this. not sure why it's a problem to have the gap. my outfeed table is attached to the saw and has the gap
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post #10 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
You are right about the reviews being horrible. In that case I would look into this brand:
https://vsctools.com/shop/product-ca...ble-saw-fence/

https://vsctools.com/shop/table-saw-fence/
Great reviews on this fence. Remember that the fence is the heart of the table saw and you may adjust it 20 times or more making a single project. Pay up now to avoid frustration later.
I saw there website but hadnt heard of anyone who actually had one. Now maintanceman has chimed in and he has one. Thanks for the suggestions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maintenance Man View Post
If you like the saw then I'd recommend updating the rails and fence. I have the VSCTools fence and made my own rails. Couldn't be happier. My fence floats just over the outfeed table. There's also no gap between the saw table and the outfeed table.
Im so glad you chimed in on this thread. I had looked over the VSC website but hadnt ever spoken with anyone who actually had one. To be honest if I were still working and still had access to the paper mills shop I would build my own fence from the rail up but Im not and I dont. Im going to do some more research on the subject but the VSC fence is at the top of my list. I want to dig into the Shop Fox W1720 a bit more to. I can get either of those fences setup for roughly the same price.

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post #11 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _Ogre View Post
i have to agree with this. not sure why it's a problem to have the gap. my outfeed table is attached to the saw and has the gap
Its more of a personal preference to me. A little of my OCD showing I guess. I just want it all tight fitting, square, flush and no gaps.

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post #12 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
If it's not flush all kinds of chips and corruption can fall into the gap and possibly prevent a through pass. Better safe than sorry AND a new front rail locking fence will solve that issue.
Chips and corruption... uh huh.

Anything small enough to fall through the gap doesn't need an outfeed table, IMO. The table of course needs to be even with or slightly below the saw top so it doesn't snag the work, but a gap in the back is fine.

I won't disagree that a fence that clamps to the rear rail is a POS, but even with a good fence there are reasons to leave space between the rail and an outfeed table.

Dave in CT, USA
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post #13 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 05:16 PM
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OK, what are they?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maylar View Post
Chips and corruption... uh huh.

Anything small enough to fall through the gap doesn't need an outfeed table, IMO. The table of course needs to be even with or slightly below the saw top so it doesn't snag the work, but a gap in the back is fine.

I won't disagree that a fence that clamps to the rear rail is a POS, but even with a good fence there are reasons to leave space between the rail and an outfeed table.
How about explaining your position?
I can't think of any, but I'm on the other side of this "fence" and have been for years. No issues of any kind on my triple 12" table saws. And BTW, my fences lock on the front rail.
vs_cool:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #14 of 19 Old 10-07-2018, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
How about explaining your position?
I can't think of any, but I'm on the other side of this "fence" and have been for years. No issues of any kind on my triple 12" table saws. And BTW, my fences lock on the front rail.
vs_cool:



The saw I use at work has about a four inch gap between the saw and the outfeed table so we can get a clamp in. It comes in handy if I need to clamp a wedge or an auto feeder.



-T
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post #15 of 19 Old 10-08-2018, 03:45 AM
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That's probably OK, but ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by WeebyWoodWorker View Post
The saw I use at work has about a four inch gap between the saw and the outfeed table so we can get a clamp in. It comes in handy if I need to clamp a wedge or an auto feeder.



-T
I still wouldn't want a gap. It's too tempting to try to catch a small piece by reaching around or over the spinning blade. It's a safety thing.

There other aspect is that off fall or the workpiece can get hung up on the edge and prevent it's forward progress. Then you want to increase your feed pressure which is not good if it suddenly releases and your hands are in the blade path. It's a safety thing.

You can do what ever you choose, but that's my reasoning.
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post #16 of 19 Old 10-08-2018, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikhail2400 View Post
Im so glad you chimed in on this thread. I had looked over the VSC website but hadnt ever spoken with anyone who actually had one. To be honest if I were still working and still had access to the paper mills shop I would build my own fence from the rail up but Im not and I dont. Im going to do some more research on the subject but the VSC fence is at the top of my list. I want to dig into the Shop Fox W1720 a bit more to. I can get either of those fences setup for roughly the same price.



Any Beismeyer style fence that clamps in the front and floats over the back is superior in my opinion. If your serious about a VSCTools fence I highly recommend you watch the video series on their site about making the rails. What I liked was I could make the length of the rails whatever I wanted. I have mine set up for 37" plus rip to the right of the blade. I played with an Aluma Classic fence and thought it was a fair design. The Delta T3 looks solid too. You'll still have to adapt their rails to your saw though. At the end of the day, I just didn't think it would be that much more time, work, or money to make the rails myself and be a bit happier with the end result.



I would stress that no matter which fence you go with, just make sure you think the saw is worth it. In my case I just barely felt the R4512 was was worth it and while I'm extremely happy with the results I could still see a SawStop in my future some day...... It'll have a VSCTools fence on it though..LOL....


Outfeed table with dog holes. If I ever find the right knob I'm gonna replace the knob on the fence handle with a shifter knob..
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post #17 of 19 Old 10-08-2018, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maintenance Man View Post





Any Beismeyer style fence that clamps in the front and floats over the back is superior in my opinion. If your serious about a VSCTools fence I highly recommend you watch the video series on their site about making the rails. What I liked was I could make the length of the rails whatever I wanted. I have mine set up for 37" plus rip to the right of the blade. I played with an Aluma Classic fence and thought it was a fair design. The Delta T3 looks solid too. You'll still have to adapt their rails to your saw though. At the end of the day, I just didn't think it would be that much more time, work, or money to make the rails myself and be a bit happier with the end result.



I would stress that no matter which fence you go with, just make sure you think the saw is worth it. In my case I just barely felt the R4512 was was worth it and while I'm extremely happy with the results I could still see a SawStop in my future some day...... It'll have a VSCTools fence on it though..LOL....


Outfeed table with dog holes. If I ever find the right knob I'm gonna replace the knob on the fence handle with a shifter knob..
For now Ive modified the fence I have. I removed the rear clamp to see how it would function without it. Amazingly its still square and holds very well. I will have to add a piece of some material that slides easily at the end just to keep it from sitting on the table.
I have no problem with building my own rails and have all ready priced the materials locally. Ill start with them soon and after that ill price the materials to build my own cam locked t-square style fence. Im not sure if the cost of the needed materials, cam lock lever, slides, etc etc would save me enough to not justify buying the VSCT t-square.
As for my saw im happy with it. It has great dust control, cuts accurately and has all the power ive needed so far. Even if i did one day find a great deal on a better saw I could just put the better fence on the new one and return mine to stick condition.

Mike
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post #18 of 19 Old 10-08-2018, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikhail2400 View Post
Like alot of fences mine has a angle iron bracket on the outfeed side for the fence to lock against and roll on. (see pic below) I want my outfeed table to butt up to my saw table. I also dont see any way to do this unless I either buy a different style fence or modify my existing one.
Any suggestions?


[IMG][/IMG]
I had the same problem. I wanted an outfeed table that would fold down out of the way, and easily fold up when needed. It uses 2 entry door hinges, attached to plywood brackets that extend beyond the fence track. the end of the bracket where the hinges attach is angled at 13 degrees, and the table is supported to the base of my mobile saw stand using an old walker. the walker is vee notched and is set onto the mobile base when needed. The nice thing is the saw remains mobile...even when the table is set up or down. The table top is from a recycled table top, and is approximately 1/16" below the saw top.

My saw uses a sliding table...that is why the table may seem narrow. It works awesome for me, and does not have any legs protruding to the floor, everything is referenced off of the saw itself...so it stays parallel with the table.
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post #19 of 19 Old 10-08-2018, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
I had the same problem. I wanted an outfeed table that would fold down out of the way, and easily fold up when needed. It uses 2 entry door hinges, attached to plywood brackets that extend beyond the fence track. the end of the bracket where the hinges attach is angled at 13 degrees, and the table is supported to the base of my mobile saw stand using an old walker. the walker is vee notched and is set onto the mobile base when needed. The nice thing is the saw remains mobile...even when the table is set up or down. The table top is from a recycled table top, and is approximately 1/16" below the saw top.

My saw uses a sliding table...that is why the table may seem narrow. It works awesome for me, and does not have any legs protruding to the floor, everything is referenced off of the saw itself...so it stays parallel with the table.
Thats pretty slick there, I like that. It looks like you have about as much spare room in your shop as I do. Thats good for us, it keeps us creative

Mike
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