Old Craftsman 10" table saw - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 40 Old 04-07-2011, 02:51 PM
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Check out the new GTS1031 portable table saw from Bosch!


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post #22 of 40 Old 04-07-2011, 03:07 PM
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Look like a great new tool, I am curious how it will stand up, so let us know.

Check out some of the best compound miter saws here.
Find Great deals on miter saws, blades and miter tables
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post #23 of 40 Old 04-07-2011, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dodgeboy77 View Post
If you search around this site you'll find a lot of information about the older Sears saws. Most were built by Emerson and are comparable to the newer Ridgid table saws. The cast iron top, belt drive models are good basic units and generally considered to be a good value in a used saw. The flex-drive units are probably to be avoided but if you found a belt drive, then that's a good saw. You can often find them in the $100 range.

The weak point would be the fence. They are usable but not as easy to use or accurate as newer units so there is an area that you could upgrade. Another upgrade would be to swap the V-belt for a link type belt to cut down on vibration. Beyond that, they are good contractor saws.

Good luck! If you get it, post pictures and let us know how things go.

Bill
I agree. My Craftsman table saw is a little older than that but still a very good saw. I updated the fence many years ago. The new fence does make a big difference is the ease and accuracy of cutting.

The only thing I have to watch on my saw are the drive pulleys. Keep the set screws tight.

George
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post #24 of 40 Old 03-13-2012, 10:05 PM
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Hi everyone. What do you think I could get for this Craftsman 100 table saw? See photobucket link for additional pictures and video of it running. It's my grandfather's saw that he wants to sell. He was a machinist so he knows how to keep tools in good working order. He put newspaper soaked in oil on the deck to keep it from rusting, the motor was covered and the belt was detached and wasn't cracked at all. It started right up and sounded good as you can see from the video. I was thinking $200. Thank you.
Ryan

http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/rgreeny37/craigslist%20for%20sale/?start=all
If you scroll down far enough in the photobucket album you'll see a nice old atlas workshop band saw model 9360 as well


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post #25 of 40 Old 08-30-2012, 06:27 PM
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I found this site in trying to find the best table saw available in today's market. Originally I was planning to get a brand new table saw but reading through these reviews has me thinking down another train of thought. I know the original poster bought a brand new one too, still aren't the older ones built in a more sturdy fashion so that once you buy everything to get it up to speed, then you should have a much more reliable blade I wold think? I did read the Bosch 4100-09 reviews, saying that it lasts for a good many years so perhaps longevity isn't really an issue. More thoughts please.

Last edited by sbjforumman; 08-30-2012 at 06:28 PM. Reason: fixed a messup in text
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post #26 of 40 Old 08-30-2012, 07:54 PM
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Good luck with the new saw. If it has steel wings, I would replace the right one with a mica covered shop made one, with a router plate in it.
Other than steel wings, it looks like a good saw.
Again good luck, and report back after making some saw dust.
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post #27 of 40 Old 08-30-2012, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by sbjforumman View Post
I found this site in trying to find the best table saw available in today's market. Originally I was planning to get a brand new table saw but reading through these reviews has me thinking down another train of thought. I know the original poster bought a brand new one too, still aren't the older ones built in a more sturdy fashion so that once you buy everything to get it up to speed, then you should have a much more reliable blade I wold think? I did read the Bosch 4100-09 reviews, saying that it lasts for a good many years so perhaps longevity isn't really an issue. More thoughts please.
I think you'd be doing yourself a favor by starting a brand new thread, and telling us more about your budget, what you build, whether or not you need a portable or whether a stationary saw will work for you. You'll likely get more interest and more specific suggestions.

Last edited by knotscott; 08-30-2012 at 09:00 PM.
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post #28 of 40 Old 10-15-2017, 08:58 AM
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To be honest, I can't tell a quality blade from a poor one yet. I suppose $20 doesn't sound bad though. Do Grizzlys ship without a blade? If it does, is it not a good one? I know I'll have to buy different blades for different jobs, but is the stock one not that great?
A saw that comes with a blade is more a case of them saying "You need a blade. Here's a blade" than giving you a good blade and this is one area where a saw can seem like a total POS, but the only problem is in the blade.

As far as blade knowledge, one evening of reading online should get you where you need to be in terms of gaining a basic to moderate level. The main thing- don't use the wrong blade for your application- use a rip blade for ripping or, for wood that's not stringy and wet, a combination blade. Use a crosscut for that, not ripping and if you're cutting wood, a blade for plastic/melamine/solid surface is exactly what you DON'T want.

Here's a link with some basic info- if you google search 'Table saw blade', you'll find a lot more.

http://www.thesharpcut.com/saw-blade-essentials/

Above all, let the blade do its job- don't force it.

I like having a line on the top of the saw table to tell me where the blade is when I work with sheet goods.
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post #29 of 40 Old 10-15-2017, 09:18 PM
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Gosh. Round here, woodworking is getting to be an obsolete hobby. All the older generation (those who were born in the 1920's and 1930's had home workshops in the 1950's and 1960's. As they die off their kids are selling their stuff for whatever they can get. I paid $12 for a Craftsman 10 inch table saw. No one wanted it because it was wired for 220. I rewired it, blew out the cobwebs, oiled it and installed a new blade. It came with the extended table to the sides and two miter gauges and two fences. Good to go and under $60.00. It is more than adequate for my purposes. I figure the saw is from about 1970. Bought a mid 1970's 10 inch radial arm saw for $25,00 last summer. Same deal, kids having an estate sale to unload "Dad's junk" I asked about other blades for it and they threw in 3 brand new blades. My 8 inch drill press is from the 1930's, a Companion. It sat so long the grease in the head dried out and the chuck would not turn. I cleaned it out, replaced the motor. It was free. I have it stripped down for painting right now.

For some reason automotive tools, and "cross over tools" like drill presses and bench grinders, still bring a lot.

Some tools have advanced so much, that it is more difficult to use the older ones. Wood lathes for instance. Everybody wants the new variable speed models. No one wants to stop and change belts onto different pullies. Saw a floor model Delta 12 x 40 sell for less than $50.00 It came out of a school shop class program years ago, probably weighed 500 to 700 pounds. Worth the price for scrap metal .

Having the brand new shiny is nice and where technology has changed, is worth it. My shop gets dirty and dusty. If I had a new machine, I would spend more time cleaning the shop than working in it. As it is now, my tiny shop gets cleaned out once a month. Machines get well cleaned out and oiled twice a year.
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post #30 of 40 Old 10-16-2017, 05:26 PM
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Thumbs down Craftsman fence

Hello,
Been searching this forum and others for fence information for several hours. Seems everyone has fence problems with old Craftsman table saws :( I did not find a specific answer to my question so I will ask . . .
I purchased and old (manual printed April, 1996) 220 volt, 10", cast iron Craftsman table saw at a garage sale. It runs and cuts great but the fence is a piece of crap.
The table is 30" wide and the model number is 113.298844.
The saw cost $150. I would like to keep the fence cost at or below that if possible. In looking at sites carrying them I could easily spend my inheritance here :((
My problem is I have no idea what to order. They don't seem to be listed in widths or "this unit fits this brand / size" etc. I am beginning to see that many after market fences need to be custom fit to the saw frame which could easily overpower my mechanical skills. I don't need a top-of-the-line fence as my work is not that quality specific. I just need a big improvement over what came with the saw.
Anything you gentlemen can tell me is probably more than I know at this moment. I will await your enlightening information, constructive criticism.
Thank you for your time,
Randy
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post #31 of 40 Old 10-17-2017, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by holtzdreher View Post
Gosh. Round here, woodworking is getting to be an obsolete hobby. All the older generation (those who were born in the 1920's and 1930's had home workshops in the 1950's and 1960's. As they die off their kids are selling their stuff for whatever they can get.
At the risk of side-tracking this thread, the loss of new woodworkers is due to schools ending their shop classes and parents who were never involved in shop classes. The High School where I went sold off the equipment around 25-30 years ago and we had a great program, as well as a complete Delta shop from the '50s, including larger machines, not small hobby types.

My mechanic told me "I can't fix your brakes, so I made your horn louder".
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post #32 of 40 Old 10-17-2017, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy123 View Post
Hello,
Been searching this forum and others for fence information for several hours. Seems everyone has fence problems with old Craftsman table saws :( I did not find a specific answer to my question so I will ask . . .
I purchased and old (manual printed April, 1996) 220 volt, 10", cast iron Craftsman table saw at a garage sale. It runs and cuts great but the fence is a piece of crap.
The table is 30" wide and the model number is 113.298844.
The saw cost $150. I would like to keep the fence cost at or below that if possible. In looking at sites carrying them I could easily spend my inheritance here :((
My problem is I have no idea what to order. They don't seem to be listed in widths or "this unit fits this brand / size" etc. I am beginning to see that many after market fences need to be custom fit to the saw frame which could easily overpower my mechanical skills. I don't need a top-of-the-line fence as my work is not that quality specific. I just need a big improvement over what came with the saw.
Anything you gentlemen can tell me is probably more than I know at this moment. I will await your enlightening information, constructive criticism.
Thank you for your time,
Randy
What is the fence doing? It seems like that model has a better fence than some of the Craftsman saw. I have one you have to screw the knob to tighten it. At least yours is a lever action. I had another model Craftsman that had a lever action fence and it worked really well.

The real problem with a fence upgrade is you would be putting more money in the saw than it's worth. You might look around and see if you can find a used Biesemeyer fence and fit it to your saw.
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post #33 of 40 Old 10-18-2017, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy123 View Post
Hello,
Been searching this forum and others for fence information for several hours. Seems everyone has fence problems with old Craftsman table saws :( I did not find a specific answer to my question so I will ask . . .
I purchased and old (manual printed April, 1996) 220 volt, 10", cast iron Craftsman table saw at a garage sale. It runs and cuts great but the fence is a piece of crap.
The table is 30" wide and the model number is 113.298844.
The saw cost $150. I would like to keep the fence cost at or below that if possible. In looking at sites carrying them I could easily spend my inheritance here :((
My problem is I have no idea what to order. They don't seem to be listed in widths or "this unit fits this brand / size" etc. I am beginning to see that many after market fences need to be custom fit to the saw frame which could easily overpower my mechanical skills. I don't need a top-of-the-line fence as my work is not that quality specific. I just need a big improvement over what came with the saw.
Anything you gentlemen can tell me is probably more than I know at this moment. I will await your enlightening information, constructive criticism.
Thank you for your time,
Randy
Sears sells a 30/24 Align-A-Rip fence system that is great. $140+/- shipped. I just put one on my 113 saw and someone else on here took my advice and got one also. You'll love it. I'll post the number when I have time to look it up, but I think it is the only one Sears sells now.
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post #34 of 40 Old 10-18-2017, 12:02 PM
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It is the 9-29910 Align-A-Rip XRC fence system. Bolts right up.
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post #35 of 40 Old 10-25-2017, 07:46 AM
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A Sears 113.27700 8" saw followed me home about 1-1/2 weeks ago- I saw a post in Next Door and the photo showed it sitting at the curb, in the rain. No fence and no motor, but I have motors. The table is 20" from front to back, so the fence kit won't work but I'm looking into building one and copying the Biesemeyer-style version on my Grizzly 1023. I watched some videos on YouTube and will probably use extruded Aluminum with slots, so I can attach things on the top and both faces.

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post #36 of 40 Old 03-20-2018, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by knotscott View Post
The Freud Avanti TK306, Freud Diablo D1040, and Freud LU86R010 are nearly the same blade...very similar, but the LU86 has thicker carbide. It never was quite at the level of the Forrest WWII but should be a solid performer. It sounds like you either got one that's not right, or possibly bought the Chinese "Avanti" knockoff blade from HD, which is not made by Freud, and is not marketed by Freud....Freud discontinued the TK/Avanti line in June 2009. Not only are the "Avanti" and "Avanti Pro" knockoffs not suitable for fine woodworking IMO, but I think the attempt to confuse should be boycotted.

This TK306 was made by Freud to precision standards in Italy. So are the Diablo and Freud Industrial blades:


This "Avanti" imposter blade was made in China from stamped steel and low grade carbide. It resembles the Oldham contractor series. Note that it does NOT say "Freud" anywhere:

This "Avanti Pro" was also not made by Freud, and closely resembles the DeWalt construction blades, which I also don't recommend for woodworking.
I'm only a mere 8 years late here, but I was wondering how anyone could say Avante blades were decent and now I know..I have a few of those 2 for a buck HD Avante blades laying around on the shelf waiting to fall off the shelf and cut my foot off.. Those things are ok maybe for cutting cheese and possibly warm butter, but not much more..

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?
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post #37 of 40 Old 03-20-2018, 10:55 AM
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It is the 9-29910 Align-A-Rip XRC fence system. Bolts right up.
Not sure, but I have a sneaking suspicion that the Align-a-rip system is one of the last decent piece of equipment sold by Sears.. Just wait till they start stamping the Crapman name on them and the extruded aluminum will mysteriously become stamped aluminum foil.. It's not that I think bad things about the Craftsman name or anything..but...locally here in town there's a Sears outlet store located directly beside a HF store and to date I haven't seen anyone leave HF in favor of Sears tools. And I'm DEFINITELY NOT singing the praises of HF tools for too many items they sell.. I just think it's kind of funny the two would be located right beside each other. Of course Sears does sell home appliances, lawn and garden equipment and such. Their tool section doesn't seem to ever turn over any of their stock. Well that's a mystery, eh?

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?
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post #38 of 40 Old 03-20-2018, 11:07 AM
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I'm only a mere 8 years late here, but I was wondering how anyone could say Avante blades were decent and now I know..I have a few of those 2 for a buck HD Avante blades laying around on the shelf waiting to fall off the shelf and cut my foot off.. Those things are ok maybe for cutting cheese and possibly warm butter, but not much more..
I don't know where you can get an inexpensive good blade anymore. I tried the Avante blades and didn't care for them. They weren't very sharp when new and didn't take very long before they were too dull to use. Not long ago I bought a I bought a Diablo blade and it wasn't much better. Before that I had been using a Tin blade from HF and it seemed comparable to the Diablo blade.

It's a wonder the thread is still around. It started off as spam and should have been deleted.
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post #39 of 40 Old 03-20-2018, 11:12 AM
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"I don't know where you can get an inexpensive good blade anymore"

Yard sales..I bought some good old blades awhile back from an old fella who was selling off his very extensive (and expensive) shop .. I got there a bit late and most of the good deals were already gone, but snatched some decent bandsaw blades..

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?
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post #40 of 40 Old 03-20-2018, 11:19 AM
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"I don't know where you can get an inexpensive good blade anymore"

Yard sales..I bought some good old blades awhile back from an old fella who was selling off his very extensive (and expensive) shop .. I got there a bit late and most of the good deals were already gone, but snatched some decent bandsaw blades..
In my case it's most of a day job to take blades to a sharpening shop and then most of another day to pick them up. I don't like the idea of mail order sharpening so I'm only using new blades. When they get dull the blade goes in a drawer.
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