Obsolete planer knives - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 01-13-2015, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Obsolete planer knives

So just a few weeks ago I got a good deal on a Craftsman planer...model # 351.217130. The planer is in great shape and cuts really well. But...when I was looking for a used planer I didn't consider buying replacement knives. The direct replacement knives for this planer are model # 16121.00 and are not available ANYWHERE.

I'm flipping this thing and buying a reconditioned Dewalt like I should have in the first place, aren't I?

Any other options?

Ernest Hemingway once wrote, "The world is a fine place and worth fighting for." I agree with the second part.
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post #2 of 29 Old 01-13-2015, 07:31 PM
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I wouldn't be discouraged just because Craftsman blades are no longer available. Lot of the other manufactures use the same knives. Just measure the thickness, width and length of the knives. Then go to other Manfactures like Grizzly. etc and compare the dimensions. Chances are, someone will carry what you need.
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post #3 of 29 Old 01-13-2015, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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These blades have pre-drilled holes though, that haven't matched anything else I've seen. http://www.ereplacementparts.com/blade-p-976331.html

Ernest Hemingway once wrote, "The world is a fine place and worth fighting for." I agree with the second part.
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post #4 of 29 Old 01-13-2015, 07:44 PM
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Look up Huntley Audio on eBay. They have several packs of Craftsman knives with dims and pics.
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post #5 of 29 Old 01-13-2015, 09:47 PM
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Does your planer use all the holes in the knives as shown? Usually there's only 3 nibs per blade. Dewalt, etc have those disposable ones that might fit.
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post #6 of 29 Old 01-13-2015, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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I honestly haven't even taken them out. But, I know there are 8 pre-drilled holes and there are 6 screws holding the gibs down...so I assume that those 6 screws go through pre-drilled holes. I started to take the knives out the other day and those 6 screws were so tight I was bending the allen wrench, they never budged.

I emailed Huntley Audio and struck out.

Ernest Hemingway once wrote, "The world is a fine place and worth fighting for." I agree with the second part.
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post #7 of 29 Old 01-13-2015, 10:02 PM
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How many of the holes does your planer require? Take a look at the actual cutter head and see if the holes have anything in them.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #8 of 29 Old 01-13-2015, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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I've spent the past 20 minutes trying to get the screws out just to get to the gib/blades and they're not budging. Not one of the twelve (six on each side) will turn. Two of them are dangerously close to stripping. Such a stupid problem, but I'm about at a loss (and a loss of the $175 I paid for the planer, lol...)

Ernest Hemingway once wrote, "The world is a fine place and worth fighting for." I agree with the second part.
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post #9 of 29 Old 01-13-2015, 10:39 PM
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Do you have an impact driver that you could put the correct bit in?

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #10 of 29 Old 01-13-2015, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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I've got a beast of an impact driver, but it's going to take some thought to get an allen head bit in it. It looks like that's my best shot, I'll try it tomorrow. I've spent the last few minutes googling and it seems this isn't a unique problem.

Ernest Hemingway once wrote, "The world is a fine place and worth fighting for." I agree with the second part.
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post #11 of 29 Old 01-13-2015, 11:16 PM
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The holes are just for alignment pins and the bolts draw up to the sides of the knives and not actually through the holes. Get some RustBlaster and spray on all the bolts making sure a lot runs down the threads. Walk away and come back tomorrow. Don't worry about oil all over everything, you can clean it all up later. If you can remove the WHOLE cutter head, then you could use a propane torch on the bolts too. Heat them up and them spray with RustBlaster while hot. When it cools, the oil will get wicked into the crevices and you should eventually be able to loosen then. Be Patient and don't over torque the bolts; you'll twist then right off.
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post #12 of 29 Old 01-14-2015, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bleedinblue View Post
I've spent the past 20 minutes trying to get the screws out just to get to the gib/blades and they're not budging. Not one of the twelve (six on each side) will turn. Two of them are dangerously close to stripping. Such a stupid problem, but I'm about at a loss (and a loss of the $175 I paid for the planer, lol...)
What penetrating oil have you used?

George
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post #13 of 29 Old 01-14-2015, 08:13 AM
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I would try heat, as someone else suggested. It's possible that the screws were installed with some sort of thread locker, which heat may help release. I'd try playing a small flame across one of the screw heads, then see if I could loosen it. More torque, or an impact driver, may strip or break the screw head.

To minimize the chance of stripping the screw head socket, I'd make sure my hex bit was in good shape. If the end is rounded at all, I'd grind a flat face on it, to get the maximum usable depth possible.

Good luck!
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post #14 of 29 Old 01-14-2015, 10:00 AM
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Heating the bolt won't work, you need to heat the area around it, which will be difficult as its under the knives.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #15 of 29 Old 01-14-2015, 11:05 AM
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Sorry to disagree, but HEATING it will Work. It helps break the bolt free. I've done it lots of times. True, I think you are talking about thermal expansion of the bolt inside a 'colder' hole, but when used in conjunction with some sort of penetrating oil, it will work. Let the bolt cool some before trying to loosen it with a wrench.
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post #16 of 29 Old 01-14-2015, 11:12 AM
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I'd agree if you could get penetrating oil into the hole, but it's a blind hole, covered by a knife and a knife cap, then covered by a screw head. I agree it would work on a stud with a nut, but don't see how it would work this way.

I still maintain an impact driver is a good option. I've used them many times to get stubborn bolts out.

Who knows...we both could be wrong. I'm just stating what my plan would be.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #17 of 29 Old 01-14-2015, 11:28 AM
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Are you guys talking about an impact driver that a battery goes in, or one of the old kind where you hit it with a hammer? I've used the latter many times and have yet to find something it won't get out, and it never strips anything.

I hate signatures.
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post #18 of 29 Old 01-14-2015, 11:29 AM
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I'm taking about a battery operated one, as hitting the cutter head with sufficient force to dislodge the bolt could bend the cutter head.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #19 of 29 Old 01-14-2015, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have any penetrating oil on hand, I sprayed it last night with some dry lubricant but that didn't do anything, not surprisingly. I really don't see how any oil is going to get to the threads at all, nothing is exposed.

I picked up a new hex bit to go onto my impact. Now I have three stripped bolts and all twelve are just as tight as they were before. I didn't try heat (I don't have a torch)

I'm punting this thing. All this aggrevation just to get the blades out, just so I can try to figure out how to make some other blades fit, just doesn't seem worth it to me. It's a shame because it's a perfectly decent planer. The way used lunchbox planers sell around here I'm pretty sure I can be completely honest and still get a good chunk of my money back.

Ernest Hemingway once wrote, "The world is a fine place and worth fighting for." I agree with the second part.

Last edited by Bleedinblue; 01-14-2015 at 06:36 PM.
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post #20 of 29 Old 01-14-2015, 07:57 PM
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I can't think of too much of anything that heat won't work on.

When I have a lot of trouble with rusted screws and bolts I use acid. But I'm not saying YOU should. I'm an acid expert. And I fear it not.

Al


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