New (to me) Unisaw... Questions - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By CharleyL
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 7 Old 05-22-2019, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
I <3 the smell of sawdust
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 327
View JohnnyTooBad's Photo Album My Photos
New (to me) Unisaw... Questions

Wow. It's been 4 years since I've been here. Time flies....


Anyway, I have an old Delta hybrid table saw that is losing power, and new brushes aren't helping anymore, so I found a good deal on a used Platinum Edition Unisaw. Because it was such a good price, it needs a bit of work. I won't get into all of the stuff I've done to it in the week that I've had it (there's quite a bit), but there are two issues I need a bit of help with.


1. The blade doesn't go all the way down into the table. It had about 1/16" above the table when lowered all the way. I added some washers between the table and cabinet to get the blade lower (table higher), but I don't like this solution. I believe the blade should go down quite a bit more, possibly below the level of the bottom of the table insert? There is a tongue that sticks down off the rack (or is that the pinion?) gear that is obviously meant to stop you from adjusting it too far, but that tongue hits the very front edge of the gear on the adjustment shaft. It seems like it should travel above that until it gets to the spiral gears, but there doesn't seem to be any way to adjust that clearance without just grinding a bunch of metal off the tongue. Thoughts on how I can adjust that? I also thought about trying to move the gear on the shaft, but it's got a pin that goes completely through the shaft, so it's not just a lock pin. In the attached picture, the yellow arrow is pointing to the tongue that stops as soon as it hits the gear indicated by the blue arrow. I know it's kind of hard to see.


2. It has a bies fence that's in ok condition. But I don't like how low the fence walls are. My old fence (custom made) is 5" tall, and I like the height of that. Plus, the bies fence isn't as perfectly flat as my old melamine fence. In looking at the bies fence, there is no apparent method of attaching the walls to the metal fence. How are they attached? Glued? Screws under the laminate face? Should I just hack at it and destroy it to get it off?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	saw height gear.jpg
Views:	27
Size:	99.2 KB
ID:	375605  

JohnnyTooBad is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 Old 05-22-2019, 03:07 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,969
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
replacing the side panels ....

The laminate covers the screws that secure the side panels to the metal box section as shown here. Probably a heat gun would help to remove the Formica laminate:


I can't help with the blade issue.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is online now  
post #3 of 7 Old 05-22-2019, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
I <3 the smell of sawdust
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 327
View JohnnyTooBad's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks Woodn!
JohnnyTooBad is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 7 Old 05-23-2019, 03:58 PM
CharleyL
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Central North Carolina
Posts: 142
View CharleyL's Photo Album My Photos
Unisaws tend to have the problem of the 10" blades not going down as far as other saws, but usually will go just barely below (maybe 1/16") of the table surface.

When making new zero clearance inserts, I use a 7 1/2" blade to make the beginning cut and then replace it with the 10" blade that I will use with the zero clearance insert to make the finish cut. I always place the fence over the insert, but off to the side a little, so it holds down the insert, but will not be where the blade comes up through, when making these first cuts in the insert. Make sure you put a small finish nail or roll pin in the trailing end of your insert where the original metal insert has the bump. This is to keep the blade from lifting the insert and is very important as the inserts are not bolted down. It's a good idea to drill and tap for set screws to allow you to adjust the height of the insert so it is absolutely flush with the table as well.

Spacing the table above the cabinet will help, but be careful when doing this as the saws have shim washers on their table mounting bolts so that the table is kept flat. If you add any, make certain that you keep the existing spacers in their present locations and add spacers that are all the same thickness to each position. This will raise the top, but keep it flat. A friend rebuilt his Unisaw and didn't keep track of where each shim washer came from. When it came time to re-assemble his saw, he spent hours and hours of repeated assembly and dis-assembly to finally get his table flat again. Squaring the table to the blade is easy compared to this.

Charley
woodnthings likes this.

Last edited by CharleyL; 05-23-2019 at 04:06 PM.
CharleyL is offline  
post #5 of 7 Old 05-24-2019, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
I <3 the smell of sawdust
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 327
View JohnnyTooBad's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks Charley!
Good to know that my saw is acting normally. And thanks for the tip on making an insert. I was wondering about that. I’ll need to find a smaller blade with the right arbor hole or else maybe try to drill out an old blade to make one quick cut. But that makes me a bit nervous
JohnnyTooBad is offline  
post #6 of 7 Old 05-25-2019, 04:22 PM
CharleyL
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Central North Carolina
Posts: 142
View CharleyL's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyTooBad View Post
Thanks Charley!
Good to know that my saw is acting normally. And thanks for the tip on making an insert. I was wondering about that. Iíll need to find a smaller blade with the right arbor hole or else maybe try to drill out an old blade to make one quick cut. But that makes me a bit nervous
The arbor of a true Unisaw is 5/8", which is the common size of 7-10" saw blades, so you shouldn't need to drill out the hole anyway. Drilling out a saw blade on your own isn't a good idea, because you need it to be very accurate and well centered or there will be a lot of vibration when you try to use it. It's hard on the arbor bearings and not good for an accurate cut. If you must drill out the center hole in a saw blade, it's best to have a machine shop do it. They will have the ability to do it and keep it perfectly centered, but it will likely cost 1/3 - 1/2 the price of a new blade with the desired size center hole.

To make zero clearance inserts, I generally use 12 mm Baltic Birch, Corian from sink cut-outs, or HDPE cutting boards from the dollar stores. I stick the original metal insert to the material using double sided tape, and then rough cut it to size with the band saw. I then cut it to the exact size using a flush cutting bit in my router table. Let the bearing ride against the edge of the metal insert and the bit will cut the material to the exact same size. Use caution when the bearing is crossing over the splitter slot or any other voids in the edge of the metal insert. Leave a little bump by not following the edge closely there and finish using a disk sander to get the edge the same as the insert profile. Then you can saw the needed slot later.

Now mark the new insert with the hole locations for the leveling set screws. You can now separate the metal insert from the one being made and drill and tap for the four leveling set screws. Also drill a hole in the trailing edge of the new insert for a small roll pin, finishing nail, etc. Make it a little small so the pin or nail will fit tightly. Install 4 short set screws to use for leveling with the Allen socket facing up. Now you can test it for fit in your saw and sand the edges if necessary for a perfect fit.

Make a bunch of these while you are at it, so you always have a few ready when you buy a new saw blade, or damage, or just plain wear out a zero clearance insert. I write on the bottom of each insert
to indicate which blade it is for, and I always use the matching insert for each saw blade. There are slight differences between blades, so it's best to always use the insert that goes with the blade that you made it for.

My inserts are almost always made from scrap pieces, and I make about 1/2 dozen at a time, or however many the scrap will let me make. I keep them in the drawer with my blades, so they are close when needed. The spare blanks are kept there too, and I make more whenever I use my last one or have only one left.

Charley

Last edited by CharleyL; 05-25-2019 at 04:44 PM.
CharleyL is offline  
post #7 of 7 Old 05-25-2019, 07:00 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,969
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
No drilling!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyTooBad View Post
Thanks Charley!
Good to know that my saw is acting normally. And thanks for the tip on making an insert. I was wondering about that. Iíll need to find a smaller blade with the right arbor hole or else maybe try to drill out an old blade to make one quick cut. But that makes me a bit nervous

The standard size arbor hole on 7 1/4" circular saw blades IS 5/8" !


https://www.amazon.com/D0724X-Diablo...2&s=hi&sr=1-11



The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
questions about generators (any electricians) pinky Off Topic 61 10-23-2019 06:54 PM
Unisaw build thread shoot summ Power Tools & Machinery 27 05-12-2019 07:34 AM
Large Unisaw extension wing kits? RepairmanJack Power Tools & Machinery 5 09-17-2018 07:24 AM
Delta Unisaw Help lem Power Tools & Machinery 11 01-10-2018 01:41 PM
Series of newbie questions 01 - saw blade for 5 1/2 saw Bub Power Tools & Machinery 15 04-12-2016 06:18 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome