New to me tablesaw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 01-04-2020, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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New to me tablesaw

Ok, so this thing isn't "new" by any stretch of the imagination, but I think I can make it a decent saw with some work. I hope anyway.
It's a 1989 Mao Shan TSC-10L that I paid $25 for...delivered. It wasn't originally going to be delivered, but after driving 42 miles to the guy's house last week and not having him answer his door, I grabbed at his offer of free delivery today.
It's missing the motor, motor mount plate and motor support bracket, insert, miter gauge, blade guard and the fence rails. I believe I have a 1.5 HP motor I can use, and I'm sure I can fabricate a bracket and plate. I'm hoping the miter from my Delta will be usable, and I don't care about the blade guard. I would have been making zero clearance inserts anyway, so that isn't a big deal, and I plan to make them with a splitter/riving knife insert anyway.
I know these aren't high-quality saws, but the larger table than my old Delta, the bigger insert opening, and the externally mounted motor made it worth a small gamble to me.
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My wife says I never finish anyth

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post #2 of 35 Old 01-04-2020, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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I just came in from testing the motor that I was hoping to install on this saw and find that it works fine and rotates in the correct direction. I paid $25 for the complete air compressor that it's on...so so far, I have $50 into this saw. It's a much bigger motor, Craftsman tagged it as a 5hp, but it draws just 15 amps, so it isn't that big, but it spin a 10" blade with some authority.

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post #3 of 35 Old 01-04-2020, 09:04 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Make sure your RPMS are correct.....

The arbor wants to spin at about 4500 RPM so you may need to change the pulleys?

You can use an online calculator like this:
https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng.aspx


or this one:
http://gadi.agric.za/software/renting/pulley_calc.php


Great find on the old saw! It should freshen up just fine. Some older Deltas had round rail fences like that. That lock on both the front and rear rails, so you had to make certain they were aligned parallel to the blade and miter slot each time when locked down.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

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post #4 of 35 Old 01-05-2020, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Your reply is timed perfectly... I was just thinking of looking for a calculator to help me determine the proper size for the motor pulley. I don't think I'll be actually mounting the motor yet though... I want to clean this thing up first, and I still need to make a motor bracket an mount.
My old Delta does have the round rails which, if the Mao Shan fence fits, I will steal for the "new" saw. The Delta only has a 22" top so the fence itself is way too short to use on the MS saw. I'll still look for longer rails to eventually replace the Delta rails with if I find them.

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post #5 of 35 Old 01-05-2020, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Ahh, it was too good to hope for, but the Delta rails I have are not large enough in diameter for the Mao Shan fence. They're too short for this saw anyway, so I guess it's no great loss.

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post #6 of 35 Old 01-05-2020, 10:51 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Steel tubing can be bought in 1/8" diameter increments.....

Check with places like Metals Depot for different diameter steel tubing. I've used them and they have great service:
https://www.metalsdepot.com/steel-pr...UaAuDNEALw_wcB

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 35 Old 01-06-2020, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kklowell View Post
Ok, so this thing isn't "new" by any stretch of the imagination, but I think I can make it a decent saw with some work. I hope anyway.
It's a 1989 Mao Shan TSC-10L that I paid $25 for...delivered. It wasn't originally going to be delivered, but after driving 42 miles to the guy's house last week and not having him answer his door, I grabbed at his offer of free delivery today.
It's missing the motor, motor mount plate and motor support bracket, insert, miter gauge, blade guard and the fence rails. I believe I have a 1.5 HP motor I can use, and I'm sure I can fabricate a bracket and plate. I'm hoping the miter from my Delta will be usable, and I don't care about the blade guard. I would have been making zero clearance inserts anyway, so that isn't a big deal, and I plan to make them with a splitter/riving knife insert anyway.
I know these aren't high-quality saws, but the larger table than my old Delta, the bigger insert opening, and the externally mounted motor made it worth a small gamble to me.
Keep us updated as you progress with this please.
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post #8 of 35 Old 01-06-2020, 03:53 PM
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Nice find! Can't tell from here, but it looks like it should clean up nicely.

Personally, I wouldn't mess around trying to salvage that fence. The Jet Lock that was on my Delta Model 10 Contractor's Saw worked like that fence. It would work "ok" if I was very conscientious each time I locked it down, but I tired of its finickiness. I recently replaced it with a Delta 36-T30 T3 T-Square fence for $150. It isn't as nice as a $250-$350 Biesmeyer or Vega, but it's a significant improvement over the old Jet Lock.

Table needs to be 27" deep, though. If it's less, you'd have to devise a way to stand the back rail off the back of the table.

"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -- John Ruskin (1819-1900)
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post #9 of 35 Old 01-06-2020, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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It is a 27" table. I'd like a great fence for it...but I really do want to make sure it's worth the price before I commit to buying one.
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post #10 of 35 Old 01-07-2020, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Third try ...
I'm amazed at the speed that things happen in my life. Just a few days ago I was wishing for a bigger table saw than my Delta... and got this saw last Saturday. Since then I've been looking for a way to come up with a fence for it. Last night I found a new-in-the-box Shop Fox W1410 with standard rails, "up the road a bit" from me (2.5 hours)... I emailed to ask how long those rails are and, well, long story short, we agreed on a price and a time for me to get it.
My wife goes to visit her parents on Saturday... I'm picking this up on Sunday.
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post #11 of 35 Old 01-10-2020, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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My new magnetic switch came today. I have used these before, so I know it'll be good for just a year or two, but they're cheap and are for 120 or 220 volts. I've switched the motor over to 220 so I figured I'd get this switch because I consider it a nice safety upgrade as it's magnetic and also has a large stop paddle. I'll get it installed tonight I think and if I have a belt, will get to see the blade spin for the first time.

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post #12 of 35 Old 01-10-2020, 06:22 PM
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I need to upgrade the switch on my Delta Model 10 Contractor's Saw. Right now it's just a toggle switch. I don't want a j-box hanging off the side of the saw, so that means taking some cutting tools to the enclosure. I think I'll find some scrap steel to experiment on, first.

"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -- John Ruskin (1819-1900)
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post #13 of 35 Old 01-10-2020, 06:58 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Allow me to "learn" you something Jim .......

Quote:
Originally Posted by SEMIJim View Post
I need to upgrade the switch on my Delta Model 10 Contractor's Saw. Right now it's just a toggle switch. I don't want a j-box hanging off the side of the saw, so that means taking some cutting tools to the enclosure. I think I'll find some scrap steel to experiment on, first.

One of the best safety improvements you can make to your table saw is a ON/OFF paddle switch hanging down from under the front rail. No BS, that's a fact. I've used mine hundreds of times because it's just more convenient to bump it OFF with my leg. When your blade jams the last thing you want to do is look under your table to find the OFF switch OR take one hand off your workpiece to shut the saw OFF, allowing it to kick back.


This are just a few of the Safety paddle switches in my shop, two on the router tables in the rear and two on the table saw in the front


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #14 of 35 Old 01-10-2020, 07:40 PM
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What brand/source did you use for switches, woodnthings? Are they magnetic switches?

"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -- John Ruskin (1819-1900)
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post #15 of 35 Old 01-10-2020, 08:10 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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I use Grizzly industrial .... switches

Quote:
Originally Posted by SEMIJim View Post
What brand/source did you use for switches, woodnthings? Are they magnetic switches?

I use these, some 230 V and some for 120 V:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Woo...120-230V/D4151


Non magnetic. I see no need for the "fail safe" aspect of the mag switches in a home shop, single operator. I know when the lights go out and the saw stops, there's been a power outage, so I shut off the saw and wait for power to come on OR go turn on the whole house generator.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

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post #16 of 35 Old 01-10-2020, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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That switch looks exactly like the magnetic Powertec switch I got from Amazon for $13 with Prime delivery. Being a rather unorganized dude I like the magnetic feature, I know when I restore the power that piece of equipment is off.
This is not the first of these switches I've had, so I do know they don't last forever, but they are cheap enough to replace once a year or so.

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post #17 of 35 Old 01-11-2020, 10:26 AM
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A couple years ago I went looking for a magnetic switch with a large "off" paddle for my bandsaw. It has a 1.75 horsepower motor. I could not find one that I liked. The ones I found had at least one of these problems:

* Could not handle the current draw of the motor. The magnetic ones seemed to be rated for less than 1 horsepower.
* Pushbutton only. No paddle for the Off switch.
* Not magnetic. Watch out! Read carefully! Sometimes the descriptions are misleading to make you think a switch is magnetic when it is not.
* Way too expensive, like costing half of what I paid for the bandsaw.

I settled for the non-magnetic Powertec switch on Amazon. It was one of the least expensive paddle switches I found, and I got the feeling that similar models from other brands are all made in the same factory. True, it is not magnetic, but as the sole person who operates my bandsaw, I decided that I can live with it. It has worked reliably for two years:

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-7100.../dp/B00KPEEPAW
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post #18 of 35 Old 01-11-2020, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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The last switch to fail on my Delta was one of those. Not being magnetic was never a problem, but I do like that extra possible measure of safety. I think, as someone posted here some time ago, that dust gets in them and does them in.
Ok, I just checked my Amazon orders, and this switch is NOT a magnetic switch. It really won't matter, but I'm slightly embarrassed to notice that just now. Here's the switch I've used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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post #19 of 35 Old 01-11-2020, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tool Agnostic View Post
The ones I found had at least one of these problems:

* Could not handle the current draw of the motor. The magnetic ones seemed to be rated for less than 1 horsepower.
Which is why, though I'd prefer a magnetic switch for the added safety factor, I'll end up installing a non-magnetic switch. Preferably one that doesn't require regular replacement.

"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -- John Ruskin (1819-1900)
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post #20 of 35 Old 01-11-2020, 12:53 PM
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Grizzly has all types of magnetic switches ...

They can be pricey for the good ones:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...nly-2-HP/G8291


See the other options on this same page on the right side for as low as $12.95 . I still don't see the need for them in a home shop. However, if you are ripping a heavy board and the power goes out briefly, then return within less than a minute, it could be a kick back issue. I don't know if the saw will start and run under a load like that and get up to speed fast enough to cause an issue. This is why I like my Safety Paddle non-magnetic switches close to my hip so I can bump the saw off without removing my hands or eyes from the workpiece.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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