Need help wiring new switch. - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 36 Old 12-31-2015, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Tman1- how do I test for resistance the way you say?
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post #22 of 36 Old 12-31-2015, 07:03 PM
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Get a multimeter and set it for resistance (ohms). Touch one probe to one of the capacitor wire terminals and the other probe to each of the other wire terminals, in turn. Record the measurement for each wire. As long as you get a measurement for each wire (and none of them have a capital M), I should be able to figure out the connections. If there are any wires not connected to that leg of the capacitor, check against the other capacitor wire. Between the two capacitor wires, you should probably get a measurement to each of the other wires. If not, measure the resistance between the wires that are not connected to a capacitor wire. Be sure to tell me which capacitor wire is used for the measurements.

If I can't figure it out from there, I will ask for resistance measurements between specific wires. But, I probably won't need that.

Last edited by Tman1; 12-31-2015 at 07:05 PM.
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post #23 of 36 Old 01-02-2016, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Tman1- I must be doing something wrong. I've tried it every way to Sunday and can't get anything to register. Capital M on every wire.
I held the red lead to the capacitor first and tried every wire. The. Switched to the black lead on the capacitor and tried every wire with the same results. The meter just goes crazy. Numbers jumping all over the place. Never settles in on a reading. I'm sure the capacitor is good it was working fine until I tried to switch it off and the original switch fell apart. If you look back in the photos you will see a shot where the original switch box was turned around and you see only 4 screws where all the wires were affixed. The problem is I can't find another switch like that one and I want to know what kind of switch do I need and how to apply the wires to the new switch without burning up the motor or my shop.
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post #24 of 36 Old 01-02-2016, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Tman1- I must be doing something wrong. I've tried it every way to Sunday and can't get anything to register. Capital M on every wire.
I held the red lead to the capacitor first and tried every wire. Then switched to the black lead on the capacitor and tried every wire with the same results. The meter just goes crazy. Numbers jumping all over the place. Never settles in on a reading. I'm sure the capacitor is good it was working fine until I tried to switch it off and the original switch fell apart. If you look back in the photos you will see a shot where the original switch box was turned around and you see only 4 screws where all the wires were affixed. The problem is I can't find another switch like that one and I want to know what kind of switch do I need and how to apply the wires to the new switch without burning up the motor or my shop.
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post #25 of 36 Old 01-06-2016, 07:55 PM
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Try placing both probe tips against each other and verify that the result is close to zero. If it isn't, check to make sure the leads are plugged in correctly. If the result is close to 0, with no capital M, then try touching the probe tip to two different spots on the same terminal to verify good contact between the probe tips and the terminals. If the result is still close to zero, test between every terminal and tell me which wires you get a measurement for and what that measurement is.

It might help to disconnect the capacitor to make sure it isn't affecting the measurements. But, it shouldn't change anything.

Last edited by Tman1; 01-06-2016 at 07:58 PM.
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post #26 of 36 Old 01-07-2016, 02:50 PM
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I can help you if you can determine which wires go to:

the centrifugal switch (2) inside motor

start windings (2) smaller gauge, higher resistance

run windings (2) heavier wire, lower resistance

capacitor (2) outside motor

use schematic below


a series circuit will be made of the centrifugal switch, start windings, and capacitor, and ultimately connect to the output of the switch. the run windings will connect in parallel with that circuit.

the new switch will have the black (hot) and red (neut) on one end, and the two circuits connected to the other end.

Last edited by TimPa; 01-07-2016 at 02:54 PM.
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post #27 of 36 Old 01-07-2016, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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TimPa, thanks but that just confused me even more.

Tman1, I thought you WANTED the capacitor to be connected. That's the way I did it. One lead on the capacitor the other on each wire.
Now your saying REMOVE the capacitor? Is that correct?
Put both leads on one wire to see if the meter registers close to zero.

Ideally what should I be reading?
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post #28 of 36 Old 01-07-2016, 10:15 PM
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Whether the capacitor is in the circuit shouldn't really matter. If you try to measure across it, you will get something like Mega ohms of resistance. Across the windings you will probably get somewhere between 5 and 50 ohms, defending on the winding design for the motor and which part of the winding you are measuring across.

If you can't get any low measurements measurement across a single terminal (should be almost 0), then your meter,probes or setup is bad. If you get a reading close to 0 across a single terminal, but cannot get a low reading between at least 2 sets of 2 different terminals, then you probably have an open somewhere in the motor. In either of these conditions, I won't be able to help you remotely.

If you can get some resistance measurements, I can help you. Or, as TimPa is suggesting, you should be able to see 2 different wire sizes in the motor windings. If you can tell us what color wires are connected to the different size windings, we may be able to help you.
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post #29 of 36 Old 01-08-2016, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dondi12 View Post
TimPa, thanks but that just confused me even more.
sorry about that.

can you identify the two wires that go to the:

centrifugal switch?

capacitor?

run winding (heavier gauge wire)?

start winding (lighter gauge wire)?

if so, then I can help you hook them up.
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post #30 of 36 Old 07-10-2018, 10:56 PM
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Info on the 8" Buffalo Grinder Push Pull switch

As a followup for others: The Buffalo 8" grinder, model B-8CB is a dual-voltage grinder with a starter capacitor and it has 6 wires connected to a 4 contact switch. The "Jet BGS8-076" grinder switch that is used by the Buffalo b-8cb, Galaxy, Duracraft and TestRite grinders is no longer available. The good news is that there is a replacement switch from another manufacturer: "3030-9001 push pull switch for RDX grinders" from Wholesale Tool is a direct replacement. It has the same 4-screw contacts on the back and the same push-pull diamond pattern front plate. For those with a broken grinder- here are pictures of my buffalo with a broken switch. The pics show the wiring diagram for 110 and 220, and the proper wire connections for the 4 contacts.
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post #31 of 36 Old 07-20-2018, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REWALTER View Post
As a followup for others: The Buffalo 8" grinder, model B-8CB is a dual-voltage grinder with a starter capacitor and it has 6 wires connected to a 4 contact switch. The "Jet BGS8-076" grinder switch that is used by the Buffalo b-8cb, Galaxy, Duracraft and TestRite grinders is no longer available. The good news is that there is a replacement switch from another manufacturer: "3030-9001 push pull switch for RDX grinders" from Wholesale Tool is a direct replacement. It has the same 4-screw contacts on the back and the same push-pull diamond pattern front plate. For those with a broken grinder- here are pictures of my buffalo with a broken switch. The pics show the wiring diagram for 110 and 220, and the proper wire connections for the 4 contacts.
Awesome I think you just solved my problem. I need a switch for a similar 'Elephant' brand Industrial rated Electric Bench Grinder Model 255-7
1/2 hp
3450 rpms
1 phase
It is like brand new with a busted switch. Looks like someone set it down on something not realizing the bottom was open and the switch got destroyed. There are 6 wires, but where yours is yellow & white, mine is yellow & gray with a black & red *all 4 of these come from motor*, then I have a black & red plus a green ground coming directly from a push/pull switch.

I'm new to this forum and found your answer and pics in a search. This thread was a dream because Dondi12 asked the same question and had the same wiring.
Most of these replies were awesome... just above my head on electrical knowledge.

REWALTER: Do you think there may be some type of universal switch that I could purchase for mine? I've looked all over for parts for this thing and the ONLY one I have found was used and for sale in Africa. ...REALLY!

Any suggestions welcome!
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post #32 of 36 Old 07-21-2018, 11:42 AM
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schoolahardknocks52- Well ordering a used one from South Africa sounds expensive and complicated!
A lot of those grey\green\orange Elephant grinders use the same switch design as the Buffalo's.
I am not overly electrically-minded either- but you could technically use any 110\240 rated switch and just wire up one set of wires to switch and the other set just permanently wire together. However- If you do that you still have to make a box\figure out how to mount it which is a pain.

So if you have a push\pull switch 6 wire grinder (which it sounds like you do) then that RDX 3030-9001 switch from WholesaleTools should fit perfectly. http://www.wttool.com/
One note: I have found that their website is not good at properly pricing shipping on small single items, so i would call and order it over the phone and tell them to ship it the cheapest way possible. (otherwise their site wants to charge 12 bucks in shipping on a $20 switch)

Also - on the buffalo's the green ground wire connects up to the underside of the chassis to a screw.
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post #33 of 36 Old 07-22-2018, 12:18 PM
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This thread is a good example of NEVER remove wires from a switch (or motor or or or ....) without recording their locations first. Take photos if possible too.



Having said that I hope the new switch solves the OP's problem.

Craftsman 113.29992 Table saw, Craftsman 10" band saw, H. F. 10" drill press, MicroLux 7"x16" lathe, Dewalt 734 planer & Craftsman 6 1/8" jointer
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post #34 of 36 Old 07-24-2018, 06:03 PM
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I got this grinder for free and the switch on mine was busted already and there are a few pieces missing that were thrown away. I'm anal, I put tape and writing on EVERYTHING. Been there and Not Done That lol

Looks like REWALTER has me straightened out. I will try and post a few pics so others will have them to go by ...in a few more years
THANKS OldDon!

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post #35 of 36 Old 07-24-2018, 06:11 PM
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REWALTER THANK YOU!
I will still try and post some pics for future reference to the next person with this problem. You've been wonderful help man.
And nope... I wasn't planning on ordering one from SA. It was just the only one I had seen anywhere on the internet and I googled the heck out of it. That 110/220 hook up sounds good and I may try it first. I can rig up a box or mount no problem.
Think I'll try the cheap route first and then check out that tool link that you sent me. THANK YOU SIR.
I understand how some are on shipping, it's get the price confirmed over the phone, write down the time, take a name, request an email confirmation after order...cyob
And the green wire is just as you said, screwed to the base. You purty smart there. THANKS AGAIN REWALTER!

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post #36 of 36 Old 09-15-2018, 03:08 PM
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Looking at your motor drawing I would guess that the extra terminals on the motor were just tie points for a double pole single throw switch, that cuts power to both sides of the line the red and black are the run windings and The wire going to the cap is one end of the centrifugal switch and start winding that are in series inside the motor. The other wire coming out of the hole is the other end of the centrifugal switch and start winding. If you put a meter on those two wires you should only see a few ohms throught the switch and start winding. The red and black should read higher. Put the power cord wires on one side of the double pole switch and put the red and black on the other. Put the white and yellow on the same terminals. Polarity does not matter. Don't forget to ground the green power cord wire to the shell of the machine.

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