Which nail gun? - Page 3 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #41 of 95 Old 10-24-2018, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfgang953 View Post
Whats the difference with cc or shank nail vs bright nail (never heard of these difference before).
imo, bright nails are plain old nails, but further research proves me wrong, they often have cement coating on them

ring shank, self explanatory
mother to hand nail or pull, typically you destroy a stud before it comes apart
3" galv ring shank is the only big nail i keep for my nail gun, great for decks, fencing or any outdoor projects



cc (cement coated) nails, have a heat activated glue on them.
driving the nail creates the heat, cooling off glues them in tight

individual nails are typically fully coated



collated nails are typically coated on the ends only





you can also get collated ring shank cc nails
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post #42 of 95 Old 10-24-2018, 09:58 PM
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A brite nail is just a plain uncoated nail.
Most coated nails are coated with a polymer to help them drive easier.
Cement coated nails were really coated in cement to give them a rough shank for extra holding power. CC nails have now been mostly replaced with ring shank or screw shank nails.
There are at least 5 different types of galvanization that can be put on nails for exterior application.
A hot dipped galvanization is about the best. Not all galvanization is the same. All steel nails will rust in time. A poor galvanization might rust in 4 years. A good galvanization may last a very long time. Stainless steel nails are available but their very expensive. Primarily used around coastal conditions or underground applications.
Nearly all collated nails for nail guns have a polymer coating. The polymer helps drive the nail and also can add holding power versus an uncoated nail.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #43 of 95 Old 10-25-2018, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you both. Its amazing how much things have changed since i was a little kid watching dad doing projects.


A day or two ago i was trying to pull small nails out that were holding up the standard curtain rod over a window. Hot the first set out. But the last nail was a major pain. Took forever and a lot of damn energy and effort. When it came out i noticed it was longer then the rest and had those ring shanks. -_-




So a nail set like these would probably work best?
https://www.harborfreight.com/30-3-i...-pc-64316.html
They look to have that ring shank, as well as hot dipped galvanized
.
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post #44 of 95 Old 10-25-2018, 02:07 PM
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as long as you buy a nail gun that will rack them :)
no need to use galv nail in a basement
but if you want a multipurpose indoor/outdoor nail, yes

if you build a deck, galv ring shank will minimize boards twisting and popping nails
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post #45 of 95 Old 10-25-2018, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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so for the nail gun route id probably be looking at (relatively cheap options)

https://www.harborfreight.com/30-34-...ler-64139.html
30-34* framer gun. $100


https://www.harborfreight.com/30-3-i...-pc-64316.html
100 30* galv. ring shank nails $27



https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABL...ressor/4764588
6gal pancake air compressor $129



https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-1-4-...r-Hose/3303484
1/4" air hose. $18

Last edited by wolfgang953; 10-25-2018 at 06:58 PM.
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post #46 of 95 Old 10-25-2018, 07:49 PM
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I sold nail guns for many years and I know the value and usefulness of a professional grade nailer. But for your job, I recommend the cordless impact tool over the nailer. I think you will enjoy the impact tool and find more uses for it after this wall project is completed. For most homeowners the best choice for a nail gun is a finish nailer for installing all your molding and trim. A good finish nailer can do a better/neater job than you can with a hammer and nail set.
Most of our woodworking projects call for finish nails over a framing nail.
Consider the impact and screws. You won’t be disappointed. Mho.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #47 of 95 Old 10-25-2018, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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I am considering that. I just wanted to see a final list of both. Rather pointless to make a decision between two options if i dont know the truth about what i would need, and be doing, for both. But the impact and framing screws are seeming to be the easier and cheaper tool option. Which is kind of a bonus for my current situation.
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post #48 of 95 Old 10-26-2018, 02:41 PM
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ogre hates those little coiled up hoses :D

if your old enough to remember phones with coiled line between the base and handset
they never coiled up once straightened out again
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post #49 of 95 Old 10-26-2018, 02:49 PM
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i'd just buy the rigid impact at home depot, my buddy buys all rigid and they work pretty well for the price
you can buy the 18 volt drill and impact kit, 2 batt and charger for $179, often less on sale

i like my milwaukee m18 hammer drill, but it's not priced for someone just starting out
if you only own one cordless drill it should be a hammer drill
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post #50 of 95 Old 10-26-2018, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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was using my small Harbor freight drill earlier drilling out some holes in some poplar pieces that i was making a hut out of for my pets. Was conveniently reminded that the battery is good enough for that, but not a whole lot more. So maybe ill think twice before looking at the HF impact driver that uses the same one. :/
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post #51 of 95 Old 10-26-2018, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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ogre hates those little coiled up hoses :D

if your old enough to remember phones with coiled line between the base and handset
they never coiled up once straightened out again

I most definitely do remember. However back then i never really left where the phone jack was, so i didnt stretch it out much at all. But the one we had from when i was born lasted a long long time. It was only towards the mid 90's (that i remember) that they really started shifting to low quality crap on the market that broke down a lot.
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post #52 of 95 Old 10-27-2018, 03:45 AM
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Not true .....

Quote:
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i'd just buy the rigid impact at home depot, my buddy buys all rigid and they work pretty well for the price
you can buy the 18 volt drill and impact kit, 2 batt and charger for $179, often less on sale

i like my milwaukee m18 hammer drill, but it's not priced for someone just starting out
if you only own one cordless drill it should be a hammer drill
The 3 types of hand held drilling/screwing devices are:
The plain rotary drill that uses round shank twist drill or hole saws.
The "hammer drill" meant for drilling into concrete that uses special carbide tipped bits.
The impact driver which holds hex shaped bit meant for driving fasteners, screws etc.

They are all different and rotate or impact differently. The drill just rotates.
The hammer drill had an axial impact added to the rotation. The impact driver has a rotational impact and rotary force.
You don't want a hammer drill for driving screws, it will strip out the threads and there is no hex drive collet for the driving attachments.

I have them all in Dewalt and Milwaukee brands. The Milwaukee also has automotive type impacts with 3/8" and 1/2" square drive for sockets which I also use for truck and tractor maintenance. These are heavy duty tools, much more powerful than the 1/4" drive impacts.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #53 of 95 Old 10-27-2018, 11:16 AM
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Will a 1/4 inch impact driver install 2-1/2" deck screws? I have a corded one (Porter Cable I think) and need to do some repairs on my deck railing. I can't hammer a nail to save my life.

Dave in CT, USA
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post #54 of 95 Old 10-27-2018, 12:52 PM
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Absolutely!

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Will a 1/4 inch impact driver install 2-1/2" deck screws? I have a corded one (Porter Cable I think) and need to do some repairs on my deck railing. I can't hammer a nail to save my life.
It will even drive 3 1/2" deck screws, just takes a few seconds more. Impacts are the best thing to happen to screws since the square drive replaced the Phillips head..... well, should replace....
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post #55 of 95 Old 10-27-2018, 01:33 PM
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It will even drive 3 1/2" deck screws, just takes a few seconds more. Impacts are the best thing to happen to screws since the square drive replaced the Phillips head..... well, should replace....
As a good Canadian I have to correct you, technically Phillips replaced square drive, Ford and Robertson could not agree on an arrangement for terms of use so Ford went to Phillips and the rest is history. Had Robertson not been so stubborn you guys would have been using his screws years ago, not later when his patent expired.
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post #56 of 95 Old 10-27-2018, 02:52 PM
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Sorry

I meant no disrespect. Actually, I knew that the square drives were from Robertson, but the historical aspects escaped me. The square drives are so superior, Phillips should be run out of town where ever he's from. I also like the Torx heads, but the problem with both is the screw seats so well on the bit, it pulls the bit out of the magnetic holder just about every time I drive a screw. That's really frustrating
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post #57 of 95 Old 10-27-2018, 04:11 PM
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Will a 1/4 inch impact driver install 2-1/2" deck screws? I have a corded one (Porter Cable I think) and need to do some repairs on my deck railing. I can't hammer a nail to save my life.
the cheap rigid my bud has is single speed and it drives deck screws without a problem
my milwaukee m18 fuel impact is 3 speed, i typically keep it on low speed for around the shop
have to bump it up to mid speed for 3 to 4 inch screws, shorter screws just snap of on anything but low
the only time i use high is breaking lug nuts, it is a beast
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post #58 of 95 Old 10-27-2018, 04:22 PM
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……. I also like the Torx heads, but the problem with both is the screw seats so well on the bit, it pulls the bit out of the magnetic holder just about every time I drive a screw. That's really frustrating

I actually prefer the TORX over the square but TORX are much harder to find. As far as pulling the bit out of the holder goes, I've found that if you give the driver a little right to left wiggle as you pull it back that its helps keep the bit in the holder.

Dave

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The closer it gets to the end, the faster it goes.
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post #59 of 95 Old 10-27-2018, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Apparently, this reply is to long to fit (?). So i have to do it in three posts (if it works).


I was just looking at a few impact drivers on various sites. Trying to get an idea of what one would best serve me. Considering function and price of course. Glancing through specs of each one. Tho i only half know what im looking at. (or.. probably less then half.) So feel free to point anything out you think i might have missed or overlooked. - I ended up looking at three of them. Naturally they are listed on three different sites, so i couldnt do the easy side by side comparison. Price wise at least, they range a good bit.
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post #60 of 95 Old 10-27-2018, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Craftsman

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-V...ded/1000553157


Hercules
https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-li...kit-63380.html


Black & Decker
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DE...I20C/204755808


They are all 20 volts, with a 1/4 max chuck, charger included, Lithium Ion batteries, variable speed, recharge in about an hour.
(im hoping the format carries over after i post this)
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