My first cabinet saw experience- Excited to Bummed to Excited again! - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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Opportunity presented a bullet in the form of a Grizzly cabinet saw and I bit it. I got a true cabinet saw in great shape, 3HP, 220v, single phase, for 200 bucks, with a Unisaw(which I prefer over other type of fences) and a CMT 8” dado set. Though there is no model number to be seen on the cabinet of the saw. On the motor it says model TY-330. Made in Taiwan. 1990. It looks to me a lot like G1023. If anyone can help me identify it, that will be great. Please see the pictures.
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post #2 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 01:24 AM Thread Starter
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Inside the saw was very good. No caked stuff. No rust. Just a little cleaning.
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post #3 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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The saw was used but not abused.
Great deal. So stalked!

I brought it home in my van, neighbor helped get it out on to my drive way, got in the van and moved it to park on the street. Wait. I forgot to put the seat backs in. Backed up the van into the driveway… BANG ! The van hit the saw that was behind . The saw took a fall front down. The handle on the hand wheel fold in, the cast iron wheel cracked at the part where it goes on to the elevator gear shaft and the elevator gear shaft bent up pretty bad.

From super excited to super bummed in few minutes.

But I cannot stay bummed. Fortunately the shaft only got bent on the part protruding outside the cabinet. I made it straight as much as I could.

After straightening it:
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post #4 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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Here is the cracked hand wheel collar:
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post #5 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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To fix that I went to Home Depot and got a 6” Long galvanized steel pipe fitting with an inner diameter that is about the outer diameter of the collar. A guy was nice enough to cut a small part out of it close to the length of the collar, even though they usually only cut pipes that are minimum 24” long. At home I grind the steel pipe part to the exact height of the collar and drilled a hole on the steel pipe piece to match the set screw hole on the hand wheel collar. I then put JB Weld Steel Stick (good stuff!) around the collar and put the piece of pipe over, matching the drilled hole on the pipe piece with the set screw hole on the collar. Worked out great.

Here is the result:
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post #6 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 01:28 AM Thread Starter
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Managed to get the screw out of the plastic handle and got a new matching screw and now that is good too.

Back to excited again!

I was not planning to take anything apart , since the saw was in good shape. Only cleaning. But now I have the arbor taken out. Going to change the belts to cog belts. Now I am thinking whether I should change the bearings on the arbor. Though there is no noise or anything it might be a good idea since the saw is from 1990. Not sure. Let me hear your opinions.

Also if I change the arbor bearings, should I change the motor bearing too ? I wouldn’t if I don’t have to. When I turn the motor pulley there is no sound or abnormal anything I can tell. But should a motor bearing be changed every twenty years or something as a good practice? Do the motor bearing stay fine longer than the arbor bearings, hence no need to change?

I recently got a 2hp Grizzly dust collector which I am going to set up. So any suggestions for dust collection on this cabinet saw will also be appreciated.

Again no clue what the model is. Haven’t found anything from searching online with the model number TY330 found on the motor. The saw seems like a G1023. Any idea ?

This is my first cabinet saw.
Thanks in advance for sharing your experience and wisdom.

Rency

Last edited by Rency; 05-31-2020 at 02:17 AM.
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post #7 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 07:45 AM
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Have you called Grizzly?

Tony B Retired woodworker, among other things.


"Strive for excellence and settle for completion" Tony B
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post #8 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 09:22 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Following the old saying .....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rency View Post
Managed to get the screw out of the plastic handle and got a new matching screw and now that is good too.

Back to excited again!

I was not planning to take anything apart , since the saw was in good shape. Only cleaning. But now I have the arbor taken out. Going to change the belts to cog belts. Now I am thinking whether I should change the bearings on the arbor. Though there is no noise or anything it might be a good idea since the saw is from 1990. Not sure. Let me hear your opinions.

Also if I change the arbor bearings, should I change the motor bearing too ? I wouldnít if I donít have to. When I turn the motor pulley there is no sound or abnormal anything I can tell. But should a motor bearing be changed every twenty years or something as a good practice? Do the motor bearing stay fine longer than the arbor bearings, hence no need to change?

I recently got a 2hp Grizzly dust collector which I am going to set up. So any suggestions for dust collection on this cabinet saw will also be appreciated.

Again no clue what the model is. Havenít found anything from searching online with the model number TY330 found on the motor. The saw seems like a G1023. Any idea ?

This is my first cabinet saw.
Thanks in advance for sharing your experience and wisdom.

Rency

Bearings last for years. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Just use it, but keep you ear to the ground for noises or vibrations. If you have the 3 belt drive you won't benefit from a cogged belt for power transfer.
If it's a single belt which I doubt on a 3 HP saw, then just get a new fresh belt, but from Grizzly, not the auto parts store. Automobile belts have a different shaped cross section than fractional HP belts.
Some folks have good luck with the segmented belts, I've never used one, BUT they are easier to install.



The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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Tony,

I called and talked to someone. She couldn’t help. I am going to call again on Monday and talk to technical support .

Last edited by Rency; 05-31-2020 at 09:53 AM.
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post #10 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post

Bearings last for years. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Just use it, but keep you ear to the ground for noises or vibrations. If you have the 3 belt drive you won't benefit from a cogged belt for power transfer.
If it's a single belt which I doubt on a 3 HP saw, then just get a new fresh belt, but from Grizzly, not the auto parts store. Automobile belts have a different shaped cross section than fractional HP belts.
Some folks have good luck with the segmented belts, I've never used one, BUT they are easier to install.


<img src="http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/images/smilies/vs_cool.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Vs Cool" class="inlineimg" />
Yes . If I get belts, I am going to get fractional hp industrial belts. They are available at Motion industries or Grainger locally. Or from amazon with free shipping.

I have some good experience with link belts . But it could rub under the table when I elevate the blade and reduce the maximum height. Happens on my Rockwell contractor saw. Some posts on forums show similar experience from few people who did it on Unisaws.

Thanks for the suggestions. Appreciate it.&#x1f64f;

Last edited by Rency; 05-31-2020 at 10:25 AM.
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post #11 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rency View Post
Opportunity presented a bullet in the form of a Grizzly cabinet saw and I bit it. I got a true cabinet saw in great shape, 3HP, 220v, single phase, for 200 bucks, with a Unisaw(which I prefer over other type of fences) and a CMT 8” dado set. Though there is no model number to be seen on the cabinet of the saw. On the motor it says model TY-330. Made in Taiwan. 1990. It looks to me a lot like G1023. If anyone can help me identify it, that will be great. Please see the pictures.
Correction:
I meant to say “Unifence”. Not Unisaw.
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post #12 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 11:49 AM
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I'd say for $200 that's an absolute steal!

A handful of patience is worth a bushel of brains...
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post #13 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 12:24 PM
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Rency, I don't know how you keep coming up with these great deals but you do. :)
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post #14 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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I'd say for $200 that's an absolute steal!
Thanks man. I am excited to (I don’t want to call restore because this is in really good shape, even the paint on it) change the few little things and maybe I will say personalize or make it mine and use it. I might even change the color &#x1f60a;
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post #15 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Elden Cozort View Post
Rency, I don't know how you keep coming up with these great deals but you do. :)

In general I enjoy buying used stuff more than new. There is something fun about getting a used machine and restoring it. So I check Craigslist, Letgo etc on a semi regular basis and comes across good deals. Sometimes it’s just knowing what you want next and not rushing to get it , but just casually keeping an eye on used sale sites and when you see a good deal take it.

Anyways it is not just saving money, the whole process is just fun. &#x1f600;
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post #16 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 02:39 PM
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You will likely grow to like the Unifence, just as I did. Are you aware that you can tip the fence extrusion 90 degrees and have a low fence as well as the usual high fence? You probably already know that by removing the fence extrusion and rotating it end for end, it becomes a fence for use on the other side of the blade. The main Unifence casting unhooks from the front rail by raising the fence lock handle and then turning the handle slightly right or left as you pull the fence toward you. You can also loosen and slide the fence extrusion itself back toward you to be able to use it as a short Euro style fence.

Peachtree Woodworking www.ptreeusa.com sells a Uni-T-Fence extrusion that is more rectangular in shape, attaches to the main Unifence casting the same way as the original Unifence extrusion, and is available in two lengths. They also sell a 16" length of the same fence extrusion if you want a short fence to act as a stop when cross cutting using a miter gauge to cut many parts to length. I like to use this instead of pulling the long extrusion back because the excess length of the pulled back fence gets in my way because I have a small crowded shop. The Uni-T-Fence extrusions have T slots in the top for attaching Board Buddies, etc. and a T slot in the face allows for attaching feather boards, etc. I have the 43" and the 16" Uin-T-Fences, but kept my original Unifence extrusion, and frequently switch between them depending on what I will be cutting. Each has advantages that you will grow to appreciate.

I have also added a Wixey DRO, by cantilevering pieces of 1/2" X 1/2" square steel pipe out from under the Unifence front rail and attaching the Wixey readout extrusions to them. This puts the Wixey display at the correct position to easily add a piece of steel to each side of the Unifence main casting, so the Wixey display can magnetically attach to the Unifence casting, but disconnects easily when you want to use the fence on the other side of the blade, and it magnetically attaches itself to the fence casting again.

The complete Unifence is also worth used about as much as you paid for the saw. They are highly sought after. If you should decide that you
don't like the Unifence, you should be able to easily sell it, but please use it for a while before deciding to replace it. My Unisaw came with a 52" Unifence and I wasn't sure if I liked it at first, but have grown to love it. Adding the Uni-T-Fence extrusions have made it even more versatile.

I think you got a great deal on this saw. It is easily worth about 3X what you paid, even without the fence. The 1023 is a Chinese copy of a Unisaw, and almost everything in it is identical to a Unisaw.

Charley
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post #17 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
You will likely grow to like the Unifence, just as I did. Are you aware that you can tip the fence extrusion 90 degrees and have a low fence as well as the usual high fence? You probably already know that by removing the fence extrusion and rotating it end for end, it becomes a fence for use on the other side of the blade. The main Unifence casting unhooks from the front rail by raising the fence lock handle and then turning the handle slightly right or left as you pull the fence toward you. You can also loosen and slide the fence extrusion itself back toward you to be able to use it as a short Euro style fence.
Yes . I love all the versatility of a Unisaw. I have been using one on my contractor saw. I am about to sell the contractor saw and I almost want to keep the fence from it. The rip fence on it is shorter than the one I got with this saw at about 33” long , just enough to cover the table length.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post

Peachtree Woodworking www.ptreeusa.com sells a Uni-T-Fence extrusion that is more rectangular in shape, attaches to the main Unifence casting the same way as the original Unifence extrusion, and is available in two lengths. They also sell a 16" length of the same fence extrusion if you want a short fence to act as a stop when cross cutting using a miter gauge to cut many parts to length. I like to use this instead of pulling the long extrusion back because the excess length of the pulled back fence gets in my way because I have a small crowded shop. The Uni-T-Fence extrusions have T slots in the top for attaching Board Buddies, etc. and a T slot in the face allows for attaching feather boards, etc. I have the 43" and the 16" Uin-T-Fences, but kept my original Unifence extrusion, and frequently switch between them depending on what I will be cutting. Each has advantages that you will grow to appreciate.
When budget allows I might give this a shot. I have been reading about it. You are another happy user of the Uni-T fence confirming the benefits of it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post

I have also added a Wixey DRO, by cantilevering pieces of 1/2" X 1/2" square steel pipe out from under the Unifence front rail and attaching the Wixey readout extrusions to them. This puts the Wixey display at the correct position to easily add a piece of steel to each side of the Unifence main casting, so the Wixey display can magnetically attach to the Unifence casting, but disconnects easily when you want to use the fence on the other side of the blade, and it magnetically attaches itself to the fence casting again.
I am the hobby/diy type. Not sure if I wanna spend money on that. But sure appreciate the recommendation.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post

The complete Unifence is also worth used about as much as you paid for the saw. They are highly sought after. If you should decide that you
don't like the Unifence, you should be able to easily sell it, but please use it for a while before deciding to replace it. My Unisaw came with a 52" Unifence and I wasn't sure if I liked it at first, but have grown to love it. Adding the Uni-T-Fence extrusions have made it even more versatile.

I think you got a great deal on this saw. It is easily worth about 3X what you paid, even without the fence. The 1023 is a Chinese copy of a Unisaw, and almost everything in it is identical to a Unisaw.

Charley
This saw is made in Taiwan. I believe Taiwan is better than Chinese. Even with bike companies like Giant etc you will see their high end lines being made in Taiwan and lower end in China. Just my observation. Not any data approved , laboratory proved argument . &#x1f60a;

When I saw this saw that is exactly what I thought, that the Unifence is at least worth 150 - 200 used.

Thanks for all your suggestions and input.
I appreciate the support we get and feel at these forums. &#x1f64f;
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post #18 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 03:17 PM
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Another peachtree "Uni-T" fence user

I also have the versatile peachtree fence bar and use it all the time now. Yes, it's pricey at first look, but a real great addition to the table saw. I posted mine a few years back and other saw it, liked it and purchased their own.
https://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_unifence.html


No modifications are needed. Simply loosen the positioning locking knobs, slide out the original fence and slide in the new one.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 05-31-2020 at 03:23 PM.
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post #19 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 03:35 PM
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I have the same saw but my saw is a few years older. I used to run the saw 6 days a week on average 1-1/2 a day for over 20 years. never change belts, etc. There are 3 matched belts, I do use link belts but not on this saw. The only advantage to link belts that I see is you can make odd lengths. I use link belts on a shop built wood lathe and a 1x42 shop made belt sander. I only had one minor problem when the saw was brand new. The green start button has a plastic nib that contacts the switch. The nib was broken off, found it laying in the cover plate. Called Grizzly, they sent a new button that arrived in two days. In the mean time I got a wood golf tee from a neighbor. Cut most of the stem part off, sanded the tee part to dimension and glued it to the button. This worked so well that the new button is still in a plastic bag taped to the machine .
You got a great deal, Grizzly sells new handles if you need it. make sure the bore is the same.
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post #20 of 24 Old 05-31-2020, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
I also have the versatile peachtree fence bar and use it all the time now. Yes, it's pricey at first look, but a real great addition to the table saw. I posted mine a few years back and other saw it, liked it and purchased their own.
https://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_unifence.html


No modifications are needed. Simply loosen the positioning locking knobs, slide out the original fence and slide in the new one.
Adding that to my future purchase list. &#x1f60a;
Thanks
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