Metal parts fell out of my Craftsman Radial Saw. Still works, but what are the parts? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 8Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #21 of 32 Old 05-08-2020, 08:09 PM
mike44
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: mays landing nj.
Posts: 117
View kwoodhands's Photo Album My Photos
I sent your post by email to my cousin who was a motor repair man and had worked on Craftsman motors of all kinds, including radial arm saws. He called me on the phone about an hour later. He is quite sure the pins in question were not original to the motor. He has no idea where the pins came from. He said to remove the blade first, then operate the saw in every configuration, rip, bevel rip, crosscut, bevel crosscut etc. Listen for any sounds that indicate a problem.
Push pull on the motor to see if there is unusual movement. If everything checks out normal, then install the blade.
Make a few cuts on scrap just cross cuts and rips, no tilt , no swing for angle. Check the yoke where the arm swings for missing parts. Tilt the carriage and the swing as originally done, make your cuts. If the saw runs well, the tilt, swing etc hold their setting then Joe said the saw is good to go.
You said the saw was not used for a while. Was any tool or part box sitting on or near the saw? Possible these pins were used for a different tool. I once tried using the motor vertically with a drill chuck , used it as an over head router.
I mounted dowel pins in the table to use as leads for shaped work. Actually this idea sucks, the chuck is not made for lateral force.
Just trying to surmise where the pins could have come from if not the motor.
mike
Mad and NoThankyou like this.
kwoodhands is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to kwoodhands For This Useful Post:
Mad (05-11-2020)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 32 Old 05-08-2020, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
Mad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 281
View Mad's Photo Album My Photos
@kwoodhands Thank you and your Craftsman motor repair man friend for taking the time to have an offline telephone conversation brainstorming solutions on my behalf. Much appreciated.


Thanks also to @woodnthings , @kiwi_outdoors , @JayArr and everyone else for your continued contributions of time and interest in helping me solve this mystery.
Mad is offline  
post #23 of 32 Old 05-09-2020, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
Mad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 281
View Mad's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad View Post
Mine does not. In fact, I don't ever recall that it has. I don't think it has any type of brake. One thing I have noticed though, is that the spindle is not free spinning, and is somewhat stiff when rotated by hand, as if the bearings could use lubrication, or as if the lubrication within the bearings has congealed.

I was wrong on the brake, and the edit time expired before having the opportunity to correct the quoted post above. The motor does in fact have a brake, I just never noticed it in use because the brake isn't very effective with a blade mounted. The centrifugal force of the blade seems to overwhelm the brake. But operating the motor today without a blade revealed the presence of a brake. And reviewing the parts explosion diagram for motor 63870 confirms the presence of a brake and brake lining.


Mad is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #24 of 32 Old 05-09-2020, 01:18 AM
Ancient Termite
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Huntington Beach, California
Posts: 851
View NoThankyou's Photo Album My Photos
I had a Craftsman RAS from the early 1970s. In the yoke mechanism, IIRC, there were stops that prevented the yoke from spinning too far beyond the usual 90 left and right for ripping. I think that something within the yoke assembly may be cracked to loosen up those parts.

It has been 20+ years but I would remove the stop pin at the end of the arm and slide the yoke off the arm. Also be aware that the plate inside the yoke locking mechanism, if like mine, is aluminum. On mine that caused a lot of problems.

Finally a 113 code in the Sears product number means Emerson Electric. You might want to check with them for assistance.

Rich
Just a dumb old paper boy from Brooklyn, NY
NoThankyou is offline  
post #25 of 32 Old 05-09-2020, 04:33 AM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 27,564
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
There are "yoke stops" .....

The yoke can rotate on a vertical bolt/axle but there are hole into which a spring loaded detent will seat. The tall handle is spring loaded and needs to be lifted up in order to rotate it:




I have some of these carriage plates and will take a look at them in the AM and report back then.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is offline  
post #26 of 32 Old 05-09-2020, 05:25 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 27,564
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
OK, I checked .....

I had 2 spare and bare carriage plates, with nothing attached and I had carriages that were removed from the arms and I couldn't find any place that looked like it may have had those types of pins. In all my years of owning and working on these Craftsman RAS I just can't imagine where the pins would have gone. I and several others have suggested you run the setup drill on the saw, try tilting, mitering, ripping without the power on of course. Make certain that all the stops are operating as they should, locking the mechanisms firmly in place. Then try it without the blade, but powered on and listen for any strange noises. Then put the blade on, teeth rotating upward clockwise as you face the arbor and see how it crosscuts. Hold the workpiece firmly against the fence AND press downward towards the table. Remember to pull the saw from behind the fence with a firm grip ready to resist any tendency for it to self feed toward you. It should be just fine. I suppose there is a fabled danger about these saws to start with and the mysterious pins certainly don't add any reassurance.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to woodnthings For This Useful Post:
Mad (05-11-2020)
post #27 of 32 Old 05-09-2020, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
Mad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 281
View Mad's Photo Album My Photos
Yes, I have let go of the idea of finding the source of the pins. I've operated the saw without a blade (and without a lot of the parts, like covers, scales, dials, tables, etc) and have thus far observed nothing unusual in terms of sound or vibration.

I have physically located, looked at, and lubricated each and every one of the stop pins as identified in every figure of the parts explosion diagram, and have inventoried every stop position in bevel tilt rotation, rip turret rotation, miter swing swivel, and carriage travel, and all pins are not only present and accounted for, but they are each remarkably different than the two twin mysterious pins that magically appeared on the floor and table of my RAS during the last use.

I'm OK with redeployment of the RAS. Right now, I'm working on optimal reassembly, researching the archives of this forum for threads relevant to radial saws. Please don't be surprised if you see some fresh dirt piles pop up in the forum cemetery.


.
Mad is offline  
post #28 of 32 Old 05-09-2020, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
Mad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 281
View Mad's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoThankyou View Post
Also be aware that the plate inside the yoke locking mechanism, if like mine, is aluminum. On mine that caused a lot of problems.
@NoThankyou , can you please more specifically explain what exactly were the problems that you had with your aluminum plate yoke locking mechanism?


Thank You.
Mad is offline  
post #29 of 32 Old 05-10-2020, 10:39 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Oakland, CA, USA
Posts: 239
View kiwi_outdoors's Photo Album My Photos
Re the two pins

Its sort of like finding a mouse nest under the hood of your car

Totally unexpected

May or may not indicate a real problem

I.e., it may simply be MOOP (Matter Out Of Place)

Retired engineer-bureaucrat in Oakland, CA. Been working with wood since the 1960's. From the 50's if you count the scrap woodpile on the farm!
kiwi_outdoors is online now  
post #30 of 32 Old 05-10-2020, 05:17 PM
Ancient Termite
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Huntington Beach, California
Posts: 851
View NoThankyou's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad View Post
@NoThankyou , can you please more specifically explain what exactly were the problems that you had with your aluminum plate yoke locking mechanism?


Thank You.
OK, my RAS was an early 1970s model. Very similar to the picture that Woodnthings had posted. Mine had the squarish arm as Woodnthings has the rounded one. The aluminum plate appears to be the same.

I was getting horrible kick backs when in rip mode and when going back to cross cut mode the yoke was out of alignment. Finally I aligned the saw for cross cut mode and locked in position until I could get a contractor model table saw purchased and set up. I even ordered a new aluminum plate from Sears Parts. Sears sent a new plate ($8) but the hole for the locking pin was (Metric?) too small and the locking pin never worked. The problem was that the threads for the bolts that held the alignment screws for the bearings pulled out of aluminum. My FIL, a tool and die maker, said aluminum and threads are a no-no. Fortunately my contractor saw was installed.

About that time Emerson offered $100 to buy the motor and yoke from the RAS. I sold and figured that I used the saw for at least 20 years for $179.

Rich
Just a dumb old paper boy from Brooklyn, NY
NoThankyou is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to NoThankyou For This Useful Post:
Mad (05-11-2020)
post #31 of 32 Old 05-11-2020, 04:57 AM Thread Starter
Mad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 281
View Mad's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi_outdoors View Post
It may simply be MOOP (Matter Out Of Place)

Better to find MOOP than POOP!












(Parts Out Of Place)
Mad is offline  
post #32 of 32 Old 05-15-2020, 02:32 PM
Mossback
 
TobyC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cat-Pig Swamp
Posts: 1,560
View TobyC's Photo Album My Photos
Look elsewhere for the source of those pins,... these are shelf pins.








woodnthings and Tool Agnostic like this.

Last edited by TobyC; 05-15-2020 at 02:38 PM.
TobyC is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome