similar saws of the same era used this.
The 113.29460 and the 113.29461 made in the early 70's used the orange and brown wire to make the voltage swap.
At the end of each wire there is a crimp-on 90 degree female spade connector that lands on a numbered terminal.
Orange on 6.
Brown on 5.
Orange on 8.
Brown on 7.
About electrical sub-panels. The rating of the panel does not determine the available amperage, that is determined by the size of the wire running to it, and if the feeder breaker is sized correctly it will tell you the available power.
You do not add up the sub panel circuit breakers, there is no relationship between the sum of the breakers and the branch circuit size to the sub panel. The NEC has tables you use for that.
I would like to see a couple photos of the inside of that sub panel and the inside of the feeder panel. I have never seen a 100 amp 120v sub panel, that would be unusual.
I am not going to get into a 120v vs 220v argument, but the fact is that a the windings of a dual voltage motor Always run at the lower voltage. The idea that a dual voltage motor somehow has more power at 220, all other things being equal, is a very persistent myth. I think sometimes people run saws on long wire runs that are not sized correctly, so voltage drop, replace with a 220 circuit and get much better performance.
My point is, if you have 120v close by and run the proper size wire it's all good, and not worth going to a lot of trouble to run a 220v circuit.