I'll try to make for you a test cut "in front of the cameras" if the weather will let me to take the car out of the garage.
I know that it's very difficult to accept the right tilt blade but I think that it's because most of the American TS's are not equipped with riving knife and short fence and even the splitter is many times "still packed in original plastic bag"...
The low height fence is only to give you a good access for the push stick when you make shallow cuts and/or to avoid the blade to come in contact with the fence when it's tilted for bevel cut.
You can try it by just making an L shape from two plywood scrapes and clamping it to the original fence. You will see how convenient it is to use a push stick when the fence is set 1" from the blade (you can even use you fingers to push the wood because the palm has a space but please don't do it).
The short fence is the one that in conjunction with the riving knife will prevent the kick back.
I'm talking about solid wood that might have internal stresses that will be released after the wood passes the front teeth of the blade.
The riving knife will keep the wood from coming in contact with the up-rising teeth of the blade but, if because of some released stresses, the wood will bend into the fence....well, the fence is stronger (clamped to the table) so the wood will press on the blade and even with the riving knife, you might get a kickback.
By using "short fence" that extends only 1"~2" beyond the front teeth of the blade, even if the wood will bend, there is no fence to press against so, no kickback.
Did you noticed that those "safety fanatic" British (and all EU) do not require Anti-kickback pawls...maybe, they know why...
If you like to see the "short fence" in action, please have a look here
I'm adding a few pics of the fence on my TS (Metabo)
Note; the fence can be extended to full length for cutting man-made boards that does not have any internal stresses.