Knock down work bench - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 04-20-2019, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Knock down work bench

Knock down work bench-57747388876__26718718-9cef-45c4-a32f-4b964b087965.jpgKnock down work bench-img_0268.jpgKnock down work bench-img_0269.jpg

Itís coming along just great took me 2 hrs to cut and sand a little donít have a jointer or a planer so Iím gonna give it a good sanding when iam done...Still need to build a back tool rest just to make it look nice not sure if I will go with that idea!what you think guy??
Thank you
Freddy


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post #2 of 19 Old 04-20-2019, 02:37 PM
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it looks great.. good job freddy...it must be difficult with outh a jointer or a planer..

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SECOND CHANCE & SECOND LİFE
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post #3 of 19 Old 04-20-2019, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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it looks great.. good job freddy...it must be difficult with outh a jointer or a planer..

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I believe it would had looked ten times better if I had those two machines either I think it came out good.im proud of myself that I was able to build it alone no help and I was determined.i really wanted a table to build my projects.thank you


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post #4 of 19 Old 04-20-2019, 05:28 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Assembly VS workbench ...

For an assembly bench, it should be at least 30" wide to allow for cabinets to be worked on. For hand work like planing, chiseling mortises, it need only be 20" or so wide. If you put a back rail on a narrow bench it further restricts the projects you can work on, but it makes it more of a hand work bench.

For a middle ground bench, I'd leave the rail off, or make it removable.

I made a 36" laminated Maple top bench, but I cut off 6" to make a back rail. That worked better for me. Kinda depends on your project size and the amount of handwork you'll be doing. Either way, make it removeable....
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 19 Old 04-20-2019, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
For an assembly bench, it should be at least 30" wide to allow for cabinets to be worked on. For hand work like planing, chiseling mortises, it need only be 20" or so wide. If you put a back rail on a narrow bench it further restricts the projects you can work on, but it makes it more of a hand work bench.



For a middle ground bench, I'd leave the rail off, or make it removable.

I made a 36" laminated Maple top bench, but I cut off 6" to make a back rail. That worked better for me. Kinda depends on you project size and the amount of handwork you'll be doing. Either way, make it removeable....


That sounds great thatís why I asked!I was hoping to get some advice.I was thinking to leave to plain as is add the piece to the back full table this way I have more room..Thank you very appreciated..
I never got a chance to pick up the powermatic planer I put on here one time it was for sale.
I found out the son was selling it with out fathers permission I spoke to the Dad and he explained his son was selling his tools with out him knowing...


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post #6 of 19 Old 04-20-2019, 07:58 PM
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Whoa .......!

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Originally Posted by JRboostGSR View Post
That sounds great thatís why I asked!I was hoping to get some advice.I was thinking to leave to plain as is add the piece to the back full table this way I have more room..Thank you very appreciated..
I never got a chance to pick up the powermatic planer I put on here one time it was for sale.
I found out the son was selling it with out fathers permission I spoke to the Dad and he explained his son was selling his tools with out him knowing...


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The dog would be sleepin' in his bed and he would get the dog's house. How else was he gonna pay for his drug habit... work for a living?
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 19 Old 04-20-2019, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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The dog would be sleepin' in his bed and he would get the dog's house. How else was he gonna pay for his drug habit... work for a living?


Exactly
I kind of felt bad when I found out the entire story...


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post #8 of 19 Old 04-21-2019, 04:24 PM
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This is called a Knock Down Workbench.

Where or how does it knockdown or am I missing something?
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post #9 of 19 Old 04-21-2019, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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This is called a Knock Down Workbench.



Where or how does it knockdown or am I missing something?


When put together you would use bolts this way your able to take it apart for work purposes depending how big you build it.Theirs a lot of info out there is how I found this bench to build..worked out good for me...


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post #10 of 19 Old 04-21-2019, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony B View Post
This is called a Knock Down Workbench.



Where or how does it knockdown or am I missing something?


Knock down work bench-img_0271.jpg



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post #11 of 19 Old 04-22-2019, 09:08 AM
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OK, sorry for the misunderstanding. I think of the term "Knock Down" as kinda like pull a few pins and it folds up or comes apart in in under a minute. This is more like a screw together bench.
Anyway, it looks great and I'm sure you will get lots of great service from it.
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post #12 of 19 Old 04-22-2019, 03:22 PM
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Tool holder

Freddy

Make 4 strips of 1/2" thick anything about 1" wide and 3 1/2" long
Glue of screw them vertically with the narrow 1" end 'up' on the rear 2X6 with the narrow end flush with the surface of the workbench. Put one piece near each end and equally space the other 2 pieces along the the 2x6 rear rail. Then take a 1x4 and glue or screw it along the 4 strips you just put on. So now you have gaps between the the new strips you just put up. In these gaps you will be able to set your screw drivers, chisels and whatever else will fit in there. If you are working on a large project you might have to temporarily remove these tools from your new tool holder. Besides, the tool holder just added an additional 1 1/4' to the workbench surface.
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post #13 of 19 Old 04-22-2019, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tony B View Post
Freddy



Make 4 strips of 1/2" thick anything about 1" wide and 3 1/2" long

Glue of screw them vertically with the narrow 1" end 'up' on the rear 2X6 with the narrow end flush with the surface of the workbench. Put one piece near each end and equally space the other 2 pieces along the the 2x6 rear rail. Then take a 1x4 and glue or screw it along the 4 strips you just put on. So now you have gaps between the the new strips you just put up. In these gaps you will be able to set your screw drivers, chisels and whatever else will fit in there. If you are working on a large project you might have to temporarily remove these tools from your new tool holder. Besides, the tool holder just added an additional 1 1/4' to the workbench surface.


Hey tony b thank you very appreciated very much is it possible to get a visual of that lay out that would really help me out.iam a little slow in the head plus Iím Spanish...
I kind of have a idea of what your telling me but just want to make sure we are on the same page


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post #14 of 19 Old 04-22-2019, 04:07 PM
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Hope this works for you.

I just realized that I made a minor mistake.
My sketch shows the rear rail flush with the top surface, when in actuality, the top is resting on the rail The princilple remains the same. Just make the small strips and the 1X4 flush with the workbench top surface.

Also note that a 1X4 is really only 3 1/2 inches wide not 4".
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post #15 of 19 Old 04-22-2019, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Hope this works for you.

I just realized that I made a minor mistake.
My sketch shows the rear rail flush with the top surface, when in actuality, the top is resting on the rail The princilple remains the same. Just make the small strips and the 1X4 flush with the workbench top surface.

Also note that a 1X4 is really only 3 1/2 inches wide not 4".


Kool thanks


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post #16 of 19 Old 04-22-2019, 05:06 PM
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KNOCK DOWNS and TUSK TENONS

If you truly want knock-down furniture, Tusk Tenons are the way to go. Simply tenons with external wedges. I dont have any photos in this lap top so I cant send u any. Just go to Google and search "TUSK TENONS".
I used to build a lot of renaissance furniture for a large renaissance club. When they had events, they would take their 'knock-down' furniture with them. Just drop the wedges into the slots and that's it. When time to un-do, just a light tap with a mallet will pop the wedge out.
I built them a set of thrones over 20 years ago and they are still in hard use. they leave them set up outdoors. for a week or so at various times in the year. They can be assembled by one man in well under 60 seconds and they are very sturdy and rigid. There are 2 side pieces, 1 front and 1 rear piece and the seat. And they get set-up at times in rough terrain.

You can build work bench's and work tables using this ancient technology
If you are going to persue this route, start it as a new thread (topic).
Meanwhile I will try to find some old photos.
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post #17 of 19 Old 04-22-2019, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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If you truly want knock-down furniture, Tusk Tenons are the way to go. Simply tenons with external wedges. I dont have any photos in this lap top so I cant send u any. Just go to Google and search "TUSK TENONS".

I used to build a lot of renaissance furniture for a large renaissance club. When they had events, they would take their 'knock-down' furniture with them. Just drop the wedges into the slots and that's it. When time to un-do, just a light tap with a mallet will pop the wedge out.

I built them a set of thrones over 20 years ago and they are still in hard use. they leave them set up outdoors. for a week or so at various times in the year. They can be assembled by one man in well under 60 seconds and they are very sturdy and rigid. There are 2 side pieces, 1 front and 1 rear piece and the seat. And they get set-up at times in rough terrain.



You can build work bench's and work tables using this ancient technology

If you are going to persue this route, start it as a new thread (topic).

Meanwhile I will try to find some old photos.


Tony B thank you very much that is awesome I just googled the name and found plenty of YouTube videos to take a look at..if you ever come across any photos that would be great that would help a lot.iam going this route in the future as to iam changing my other two work benches in my shop.
This one one bench I made is going to be my project bench but I must say itís not totally finished yet.iam look for a planer still and jointer if it gets to the point that I canít find one used because iam looking for something cast iron if not Iíll just go with the ctech planer and jointer they are good machines I was told not sure but I want something that will last me some time..
Thank you
Happy Easter
Making something great..


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post #18 of 19 Old 04-22-2019, 05:22 PM
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If you give it some thought, you should be able to turn this work bench into a Knock-down sometime in the future. Fortunately, your work bench is screwed together and should be easily unscrewed.
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post #19 of 19 Old 04-23-2019, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JRboostGSR View Post
Tony B thank you very much that is awesome I just googled the name and found plenty of YouTube videos to take a look at..if you ever come across any photos that would be great that would help a lot.iam going this route in the future as to iam changing my other two work benches in my shop.
This one one bench I made is going to be my project bench but I must say it’s not totally finished yet.iam look for a planer still and jointer if it gets to the point that I can’t find one used because iam looking for something cast iron if not I’ll just go with the ctech planer and jointer they are good machines I was told not sure but I want something that will last me some time..
Thank you
Happy Easter
Making something great..


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P.S. Love the table, got to get around to building me one some day.

I have a Cutech 12.5" planer w/knives and a 6" jointer with their version of a spiral cutterhead. I bought both as part of a package deal and for the price I wasnt disappointed. The jointer actually works darn good and I wish my planer had the spiral cutterhead also. My biggest gripe is the planer does snipe the beginning and the end of the boards for about 2". Snipe can be gotten around by placing short same thickness boards as im planing in front and just behind the main board. This is to lift the cutterhead up to cut level before the main board and keep the head up as main board feeds thru. Its a pain in the butt but it works. Just dont expect the Cutech machines to be a be some thing their not. I cant speak on how long they will last but mine have given me no problems yet.
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