Ideas on infeed jig setup for my Dewalt 734 planer - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 41 Old 11-18-2015, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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Ideas on infeed jig setup for my Dewalt 734 planer

So I recently acquired an almost brand new Dewalt 734 planer that I intend on using to mainly mill the 2" face frame pieces that I use for my cabinet making. I usually cut my face frame stiles and rails at 2 & 1/8" and plane them down to 2". At work we use a Grizzly 20" planer, and I am just new getting setup at my home shop to start moon light cabinet building.

My Dewalt 734 has a small infeed and out feed shelf built in to it, but, I want to be able to plane 4 face frame pieces at once, on their side edges. So I need to make some kind of a jig to hold four of them together at one time on the infeed side, so that they do not slide around and turn it twist. The infeed part is flush with the bottom on the inside of the part of the planer where the knives are at. Which is making it difficult for me to come up with any ideas on how to do this.

Do any of you guys have a suggestion or solution?
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post #2 of 41 Old 11-18-2015, 11:44 PM
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I have done this by using masking tape on the ends. Place the 4 face frame pieces on a table on their edge. They all need to be the same length. Hold them tight together and tape the ends from one side around the end to the other side. Then feed the whole assembly through the planer.

Last edited by Tom-G; 11-18-2015 at 11:48 PM.
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post #3 of 41 Old 11-19-2015, 02:14 AM
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Never underestimate the usefulness of a hot glue gun in the shop. Dab of glue on each piece, run through like a solid board, pop everything apart after planing. Easy peasy

Carpet tape also works well in place of the hot glue, i just find that the glue is quicker

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post #4 of 41 Old 11-19-2015, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom-G View Post
I have done this by using masking tape on the ends. Place the 4 face frame pieces on a table on their edge. They all need to be the same length. Hold them tight together and tape the ends from one side around the end to the other side. Then feed the whole assembly through the planer.
Thanks for the replies fellows. I might try this method and see how well it works, however, I would prefer to have a more perminant solution. All that I can think of would be to clamp some boards to the top of the infeed table section and have them serve as a guide or track to go through straight and not twist and turn.
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post #5 of 41 Old 11-19-2015, 05:08 AM Thread Starter
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The problem that I see with the masking tape or hot glue ideas (mentioned by the posters above) is that even if I can get them to go in as one and not twist on their edges, I would still have to worry about the entire pack of boards getting sideways and not feeding through in a straight line. Do you guys think that is a valid concern?

I think that I can just cut some 1 x 4's and sit them on top of the infeed table section and clamp them to the infeed tray on the front of my Dewalt 734 to act as a guide or track to keep the stock straight as it runs through the planer and also not allow it to twist. Does that sound like a good solution? Does anyone else have any suggestions and/or input?
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post #6 of 41 Old 11-19-2015, 06:24 AM
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I think that you forecasting a problem that may not exist.

Why would you expect this collection of boards that are taped or glued together to twist or turn any more than a single board. You do not make any special arrangements for a single board do you?

What I do not understand is why you go to all of this extra work and expense in the first place. Why do you not cut the boards to the final dimension when you are cutting?

George
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post #7 of 41 Old 11-19-2015, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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I think that you forecasting a problem that may not exist.

Why would you expect this collection of boards that are taped or glued together to twist or turn any more than a single board. You do not make any special arrangements for a single board do you?

What I do not understand is why you go to all of this extra work and expense in the first place. Why do you not cut the boards to the final dimension when you are cutting?

George
Well there are several reason, the first is because I want all of the stiles and rails that I use for the face frames to be exactly identical to what they are supposed to be. When cutting hardwoods on the table saw, in my experience, they can very ever so slightly, especially if they are not perfectly straight, and I want the edges to be smooth with not saw marks or roughness. There are a number of reasons to plane your face frames, and if you do not, you will have a tough time sanding all of the edges completely smooth.
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post #8 of 41 Old 11-19-2015, 07:31 AM
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If your table saw is set up correctly the pieces will be the same width. Why not just feed them individually through the planer? The only reason is that you want to do it quickly.

I have fed stock on edge through the planer and it goes through fine. It does not matter if the stock, flat or on edge, goes through the planner on an angle. Some feed on an angle to prevent chip out.
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post #9 of 41 Old 11-19-2015, 08:23 AM
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Use a jig made from piece of 3/4" plywood, (say 11&1/2" wide) that sits flat on bed and screw & glue from bottom 2 pieces of ply (say 1&3/4") perpendicular 3" apart. Clamp a 3" piece inside while doing this to maintain accurate width, This will accommodate your 4 pieces of 3/4" on edge, and hold them perpendicular to knives. Make 11&1/2" piece longer than bed and glue perpendicular stop on bottom so it cannot slide in. I have done this, it works.

Last edited by bzguy; 11-19-2015 at 08:27 AM.
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post #10 of 41 Old 11-19-2015, 09:40 AM
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a couple of thoughts here

You could build a in/outfeed support from MDF, attach it to a level bench, adjust the ends for level and flatness with the planer bed and THEN cover the whole works with a sheet of polished stainless OR a HPL like Formica.

Another idea, combined with the the above or not, is to make a jig as you mentioned from a flat piece of 1" MDF , and make some side guides that can capture and lock your stock between with wedges. A slick surface material on the bottom will also help.




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Last edited by woodnthings; 11-19-2015 at 10:58 AM.
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post #11 of 41 Old 11-19-2015, 10:42 AM
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I do that operation a lot--I just hold the stack together with my hand---as they pass to the other side of the machine--I grab them and keep the stack together form the out feed side.

Have you ever tried it? what harm can be done if the do move apart?
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post #12 of 41 Old 11-20-2015, 07:28 AM
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When they are ripped if often releases tension in the wood and they twist when going through the planer without the jig, and then come out with un-square edges.
You can hold them if you're diligent and attentive enough, but I like to make jigs that make my job easier in the long run and I suspect the OP does too.
I like the idea od slippery surfaces, melamine is also an option, I put sealer on all jigs then paste wax jigs and equipment tables/beds.
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post #13 of 41 Old 11-20-2015, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bzguy View Post
Use a jig made from piece of 3/4" plywood, (say 11&1/2" wide) that sits flat on bed and screw & glue from bottom 2 pieces of ply (say 1&3/4") perpendicular 3" apart. Clamp a 3" piece inside while doing this to maintain accurate width, This will accommodate your 4 pieces of 3/4" on edge, and hold them perpendicular to knives. Make 11&1/2" piece longer than bed and glue perpendicular stop on bottom so it cannot slide in. I have done this, it works.
The problem that I have is that the infeed platform on my DW734 is flush with the bottom going inside the planer. So I can sit anything on top of the infeed side that would go under the stock going through the planer. Does that make sense? The only two solutions that I can see are to

1.) extend the infeed platform out by screwing on some plywood to the front edge on the infeed platform with the top of the plywood being flush with the top of the infeed platform, then attaching some guides to the plywood portion that are approx 3" apart so that the stock can fit tightly in between and glide over the infeed platform, or,

2.) clamp some 1x3's to the top of the infeed platform approx 3" apart for virtually the same result, that the stock would then be held tight as it traveled through. I am open to any other options, or suggestions. Thanks so much to all that are helping me on this!
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post #14 of 41 Old 11-20-2015, 10:22 AM
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Sometimes I stuff a stack of identical pieces through my planer like you describe. Sometimes they separate. Sometimes they end up going through crooked. They always come out the other side just fine. Often I just send them through about 3-6" behind each other, which eliminates most of the snipe - like this:


If you're hell bent on keeping them together, why not just use tape as Tom G suggested?
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post #15 of 41 Old 11-20-2015, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Cool

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Sometimes I stuff a stack of identical pieces through my planer like you describe. Sometimes they separate. Sometimes they end up going through crooked. They always come out the other side just fine. Often I just send them through about 3-6" behind each other, which eliminates most of the snipe - like this:


If you're hell bent on keeping them together, why not just use tape as Tom G suggested?
The boards that I use for building face frames aren't nearly as thick or wide as the ones in your picture. I use 3/4" poplar and maple 2" wide, and I can assure you that sometimes they get crooked and end up all messed up. I am not making this up.
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post #16 of 41 Old 11-20-2015, 12:02 PM
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Why not masking tape?
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post #17 of 41 Old 11-20-2015, 04:09 PM
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How about a basic sled, with a fence on 1 edge to stack boards against, and have an opposing fence with wedges to apply pressure to the stack of boards.
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post #18 of 41 Old 11-21-2015, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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How about a basic sled, with a fence on 1 edge to stack boards against, and have an opposing fence with wedges to apply pressure to the stack of boards.

That is exactly what I want to do, however, I am having trouble figuring out how to make it work because the infeed platform is flush with the inside bottom of the planer. So if I add a sled to the infeed platform it will be higher than the inside of the planer, thus the boards wouldn't contact the bottom rollers going into where the knives are at inside the cutting area as they would be raised up from the sled. Do you have any suggestions on how to implement something like this?
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post #19 of 41 Old 11-21-2015, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny870 View Post
The problem that I have is that the infeed platform on my DW734 is flush with the bottom going inside the planer. So I can sit anything on top of the infeed side that would go under the stock going through the planer. Does that make sense? The only two solutions that I can see are to

1.) extend the infeed platform out by screwing on some plywood to the front edge on the infeed platform with the top of the plywood being flush with the top of the infeed platform, then attaching some guides to the plywood portion that are approx 3" apart so that the stock can fit tightly in between and glide over the infeed platform, or,

2.) clamp some 1x3's to the top of the infeed platform approx 3"
apart for virtually the same result, that the stock would then be held tight as it traveled through. I am open to any other options, or suggestions. Thanks so much to all that are helping me on this!
Think I got you now, the infeed drive rollers are on the bottom?
Improvise the same jig I described so it can be flipped over and clamped to top?
Hard to picture, that may interfere with sawdust exhaust on your machine?
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post #20 of 41 Old 11-21-2015, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Danny870 View Post
The boards that I use for building face frames aren't nearly as thick or wide as the ones in your picture. I use 3/4" poplar and maple 2" wide, and I can assure you that sometimes they get crooked and end up all messed up. I am not making this up.
This happens to me too, i posted about it, boards twist after ripping to 2&1/8" from tension release and go through on an angle, come out with edges not square.
That's why jig is nice, holds them square.

Last edited by bzguy; 11-21-2015 at 12:43 PM.
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