the hunt for a jointer - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 23 Old 01-07-2013, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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the hunt for a jointer

looking to buy a jointer what is everyones take on this one

http://omaha.craigslist.org/tls/3515475091.html
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post #2 of 23 Old 01-07-2013, 11:39 AM
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The beds look rather short. Seems like a bench jointer design mounted on a stand.

Looks to be in good condition.

It would be likely be fine for jointing short items 2-4ft but if you need to joint long boards, you will need to build some infeed/outfeed support.

The price may be high.

If this is bench style, a new Grizzly bench jointer is only $235.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-x-...-Jointer/G0725
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post #3 of 23 Old 01-07-2013, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Paine View Post
The beds look rather short. Seems like a bench jointer design mounted on a stand.

Looks to be in good condition.

It would be likely be fine for jointing short items 2-4ft but if you need to joint long boards, you will need to build some infeed/outfeed support.

The price may be high.

If this is bench style, a new Grizzly bench jointer is only $235.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-x-...-Jointer/G0725

what would you offer for a price on this unit. I have some roller outfeed tables Ive used with my miter saw. in the rare occurence i need to plane a longer board i should be ok
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post #4 of 23 Old 01-07-2013, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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http://lincoln.craigslist.org/tls/3505385716.html

what about this model.. What would you offer for that and would I be better off with that as opposed to the benchtop
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post #5 of 23 Old 01-07-2013, 01:20 PM
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Just my opinion, but if all else were equal, I would prefer a model with longer beds.

The details matter, including the bed length.

I have a very similar Delta 39-170 6in jointer. I think this Craftsman came from the same design perhaps same factory. I purchased mine in the early 90's. Back then made in Taiwan, and similar design sold by Jet, Grizzly, etc.

Mine is 45 or 46in overall bed length. I prefer when the wood is supported by the infeed bed without rollers. I have used rollers for long stock. It just takes times to get the rollers set up and level.

A big unknown is the method of getting the beds parallel. My Delta and likely this Craftsman has "gibs" which are special screws which contact the tapered rails for the bed. On my Delta I have gibs for both infeed and outfeed tables.

I would ask the seller about whether both beds can be adjusted or just one.

The "2 1/2 HP max" is a bad marketing term. Likely a 3/4 - 1HP motor. Ask the seller for the amp on the motor nameplate. This will allow you to know the real HP.

I do not think you need a large motor. I forget what mine is, but I think it is less than 1 HP. I have not found this to be a problem.

The specs say "1/8in" max cut. I do not change my jointer, I leave it at about 1/64in cut.

This one has superficial rust. Should be easy to remove, but not easy to tell if this is a sign of abuse, or just not taking care of the cast surfaces. Moisture in the air will cause the surfaces to rust if not waxed or some other protection applied.

I forget what I paid for my Delta. Likely < $400. I think this Craftsman may be worth $ 150 - 200.

I hate when people feel something is worth more than the market. They get insulted at realistic offers.

The one is listed on EBay starting at $175. Looks to be a very similar design. May be the same design.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Heavy-Duty...item27cdf9adf7
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post #6 of 23 Old 01-07-2013, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Paine View Post
The one is listed on EBay starting at $175. Looks to be a very similar design. May be the same design.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Heavy-Duty...item27cdf9adf7
The duct tape in the photo makes me smile a bit...
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post #7 of 23 Old 01-07-2013, 07:41 PM
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This isn't bad

Quote:
Originally Posted by rajdawg View Post
http://lincoln.craigslist.org/tls/3505385716.html

what about this model.. What would you offer for that and would I be better off with that as opposed to the benchtop
You are way better off with this one than a benchtop.
The two hand wheeels mean it has 2 adjustable tables, infeed and outfeed, which means setting the knives will be easier.

The seller Sarah, may be the original owner or selling it for an estate settlement in either case "she" may be more willing to negotiate a bit. I'd offer $240.00 and see what happens. At $300.00 it's a bit pricey. I paid $225.00 for a Jet similar model in very good condition, no rust. It will provide good service when you get it cleaned up and some sharp knives in it unless it has seen little use. Knives are cheap!

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 23 Old 01-07-2013, 08:17 PM
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Personally, I'd pass on both of them.
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post #9 of 23 Old 01-07-2013, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings
You are way better off with this one than a benchtop.
The two hand wheeels mean it has 2 adjustable tables, infeed and outfeed, which means setting the knives will be easier.

The seller Sarah, may be the original owner or selling it for an estate settlement in either case "she" may be more willing to negotiate a bit. I'd offer $240.00 and see what happens. At $300.00 it's a bit pricey. I paid $225.00 for a Jet similar model in very good condition, no rust. It will provide good service when you get it cleaned up and some sharp knives in it unless it has seen little use. Knives are cheap!
She is a real estate agent I'm gonna call tomorrow and offer 150. If she passes I will wait until something else comes along
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post #10 of 23 Old 01-08-2013, 08:55 AM
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I think the benchtop may be worth $100, if you don't have room for a real jointer.
The CM jointer is worth up to $150, in my world, if you can't find a better one.
I bought my PM 50 (6") on Ebay for $180. Actually, I forgot to bid as did everyone else, and I contacted the seller and offered the opening bid! After buying, I found out it had solid carbide knives.
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post #11 of 23 Old 01-08-2013, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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I think the benchtop may be worth $100, if you don't have room for a real jointer.
The CM jointer is worth up to $150, in my world, if you can't find a better one.
I bought my PM 50 (6") on Ebay for $180. Actually, I forgot to bid as did everyone else, and I contacted the seller and offered the opening bid! After buying, I found out it had solid carbide knives.

offered them 150 for the craftsman. I figure thats a pretty decent jointer to start with especially as I am accumulating other equipment. I can always upgrade later
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post #12 of 23 Old 01-08-2013, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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they countered at 200 for the craftsman. Think I am going to pass on that unit
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post #13 of 23 Old 01-08-2013, 10:50 AM
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I'd go $180

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they countered at 200 for the craftsman. Think I am going to pass on that unit
That's still a decent price for a movable outfeed jointer if it has a 1 HP motor. The older Craftsman motors are workhorses and used great copper windings. I have an early fixed outfeed Craftsman 6" jointer and I wouldn't part with it for less than $175.00 1 HP motor and welded steel stand. FYI.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #14 of 23 Old 01-08-2013, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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That's still a decent price for a movable outfeed jointer if it has a 1 HP motor. The older Craftsman motors are workhorses and used great copper windings. I have an early fixed outfeed Craftsman 6" jointer and I wouldn't part with it for less than $175.00 1 HP motor and welded steel stand. FYI.

got a call in. sarah is going to find out. I am pretty sure I will be buying this unit. How damn heavy is this thing going to be??
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post #15 of 23 Old 01-08-2013, 11:15 AM
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not to worry

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got a call in. sarah is going to find out. I am pretty sure I will be buying this unit. How damn heavy is this thing going to be??
The jointer body itself can be removed from the stand, 3 bolts and 125 lbs at most. The stand and motor will be around 75 lbs.
A pickup truck or SUV will be ideal. Cardboard in the bed or back to slide in on flat side down after removing the fence. I've moved a few of these by myself, not too bad. Sarah probably won't be much help, except opening doors which should already be opened anyway.

Start it up and listen to it run first, Inspect the knives for deep grooves which indicate either hard or careless use. Still not a problem as the knives are readily available.
Run the motor with the belt rolled off after running it as it would normally be. Listen for any high pitched squeals or squeaks. Squeaks can come from the belt if it's dry or off plane.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-08-2013 at 11:18 AM.
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post #16 of 23 Old 01-11-2013, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
The jointer body itself can be removed from the stand, 3 bolts and 125 lbs at most. The stand and motor will be around 75 lbs.
A pickup truck or SUV will be ideal. Cardboard in the bed or back to slide in on flat side down after removing the fence. I've moved a few of these by myself, not too bad. Sarah probably won't be much help, except opening doors which should already be opened anyway.

Start it up and listen to it run first, Inspect the knives for deep grooves which indicate either hard or careless use. Still not a problem as the knives are readily available.
Run the motor with the belt rolled off after running it as it would normally be. Listen for any high pitched squeals or squeaks. Squeaks can come from the belt if it's dry or off plane.

picking this unit up Sunday for 200 bones. Whats the best way to remove those rust spots? Is there a certain solvent that is the best to use.

After this I will be 1/3 of the way to upgrading my shop, next stop planer and new table saw
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post #17 of 23 Old 01-11-2013, 05:18 PM
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picking this unit up Sunday for 200 bones. Whats the best way to remove those rust spots? Is there a certain solvent that is the best to use.

After this I will be 1/3 of the way to upgrading my shop, next stop planer and new table saw
There is an excellent product called Evapo-Rust which will remove rust back to clean metal but it is too expensive, about $29 a gallon and the part must be completely submerged.

For the beds and fence, I would use good old WD-40 and wet-dry paper. Start with e.g., 120 grit and move up. You will hear and feel when the grit has done its job. This will remove the rust, take away scratches, and leave the surface protected, so three benefits.

Find a small block or cut one from a piece of scrap to give you a flat surface to use with the wet-dry paper.

Last edited by Dave Paine; 01-11-2013 at 05:18 PM. Reason: fix typo
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post #18 of 23 Old 01-13-2013, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Bad picture but I know without pics it didn't happen. Sitting in my shop now need to upgrade the blades just because. The actual cutter head seems to be rusted. Not sure how big of a deal that is. I did test it out on a scrap board I had and it worked so that's good
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post #19 of 23 Old 01-14-2013, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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where can I find replacement knives?
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post #20 of 23 Old 01-14-2013, 12:20 PM
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congrats on the jointer. if the model number is configured like this: 113.****** then it was built by emerson electric for sears and more than likely made in the USA. try this guy for knives. the crew @ bt3central.com rave about him:

http://www.holbren.com/jointer-planer-knives/

as for the rust, CI is CI. here's an excerpt from a unisaw rehab video series that offers some great tips on refurbishing equiupment:


i followed those steps, and added additional finer grits of paper, and this is how my unisaw table refurb turned out:
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there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.
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