how to I check run-out on drill press? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 03-16-2012, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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how to I check run-out on drill press?

I am going to look at an old (like 1950's or earlier) floor model drill press tomorrow and my dial run out gage took crap on me. What should I be looking for when looking at this? This is your typical old cast iron drill press with pulleys and a 15 inch swing.
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post #2 of 8 Old 03-16-2012, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jtrom View Post
What should I be looking for .
A Harbor Freight for a new indicator and a mag base if you don't have one.


DPs are fairly simple, does it run, is it smooth (if not it may just be the belt), does the chuck work properly, do all the table adjustments work and how much runout.
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post #3 of 8 Old 03-16-2012, 06:02 PM
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You can pretty much check runout without a dial guage. Drill a hole in a piece of two inch thick wood. Make it 3/8 inch just for the sake of a size. Make sure the piece of wood is held solid when the hole is drilled.

Remove the drill bit from the chuck and insert the base of the bit into the hole. Is a snug or sloppy fit. If it is snug the press drills true.

George
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post #4 of 8 Old 03-16-2012, 06:21 PM
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To check runout without an indicator, chuck up a round metal rod that you know is dead straight. You might have to look around the shop and get creative. Then, using a square on the DP table,slide it up to the chucked rod with the short end of the square parallel to the rod. Get the square close enough where it just touches to rod. Now rotate the chuck by hand. If you see a gap between the rod and the square that changes as you rotate the chuck, then this is your runout. You will want to be as close to chuck as possible in the vertical to eliminate any error that may be associated with you reference rod not being straight.

You can also use this setup to check and align your DP table so that it is square to the chuck in both side to side (usually adjustable) as well as fore and aft (requires shimming the table mount).
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post #5 of 8 Old 03-16-2012, 06:28 PM
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What George said will work as long as you have a properly sharpened, straight drill bit. If the bit is ground so that the cutting edges are uneven, it will drill oversize even if the drill press is true. Best bet would be to use a new, quality, drill bit.

I like a Forstner bit and a dial indicator, myself.

Bill
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-16-2012, 06:54 PM
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I have tried a lot of drill press tooling for this task any even my Bormax/Maxicut forstners and Colt/Forest City brad points have too much run out themselves to be effective getting a goos TIR. Even though they aren't perfect either the best I have come up with is chucking an end mill. You may be able to pick up a worn out from a machine shop.

Don't forget to check runout at full quill travel as well.

Like I said, if there is a HF near you grab another dial indicator, they are a must have for a shop, and although they aren't a Starrett or Mitutoyo they are fine for a wood shop.
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post #7 of 8 Old 03-18-2012, 11:08 AM
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how to I check run-out on drill press?
Two Ways: 1.) insert a dowel pin in the chuck and turn it by hand with an indicator bearing against the pin ***OR*** 2.) Insert a dowel pin in the chick and use a mechanical indicator you make yourself with a piece of wood ( platen) and a dowel pin ( anchor & hinge pin) sticking out of another piece of wood. The pin is located in the wood 1 inch from the spot where you'll bring it against the dowel pin on the DP and the other end of the stick of wood is as long as you want to make it (10 inches is good) from the center of the anchor pin Bring the short end to the chuck and fix the Platen to the table then run the chuck by hand and observe the long end's movement, Simple trig' and plain old tape measure measurements will tell you exactly how many thousandths of an inch it's out.

Last edited by Cliff; 03-18-2012 at 11:12 AM.
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post #8 of 8 Old 03-18-2012, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks all...ended up not needing a dial indicator to see the runout...it was like a wobble pump and LOTS of back and forth play in the quill when extended............I think I am going to buy new
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