As usual, there's sage advice in these posts. Generally speaking, you'll likely need to use the out-rip position in order for the motor to clear the tabletop and often the fence.
Here's some more advice, derived from years of solely RAS use (didn't have the space for the old cabinet saw, which was sold off), largely in correct order:
1) Start with a properly flat and true tabletop. Mr. Sawdust's method is good, but not the final word. I have gotten great tops from the cheapo, double-sided IKEA formica countertops; and with doubled up 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood.
2) Preserve your now well done and somewhat costly tabletop by using a consumable and replaceable 1/4" layer of tempered hardboard, MDF, or Luan door skin. This is a very important concept: This sacrificial skin can be either loose or held in place (with some very thin double-stick tape or brass nails), but it is intended to be used up and replaced -- I use a loose skin that is backed up with that rubber mesh router mat (a.k.a., non-slip carpet underlayment). The video showed the value of using the saw kerf to show the exact path of the blade, and this makes it very quick and easy to arrive at precise cuts.
3) SAFETY 1st: Use the right blade for a RAS, which is never an ATB, must always be a low or neutral hook angle, and often a triple-chip blade fits the bill nicely. This is a good one to start with (this is the 12" version): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4) Carefully and fully tune your RAS. This will take a couple of hours to complete, but the time is worth it because you will be able to cut with something like 6 degrees of freedom, which cannot be matched by any other tool in the shop, and contrary to popular myth, a quality saw will hold the settings for a very long time.
5) Use fingerboards or other anti-kickback devices to control the main stock and the cutoff. I use the typical plastic fingerboard flat on the table, and "Board Buddies" against the fence to control the waste in both the horizontal and vertical directions. The trick to the plastic or DIY fingerboards is to use toilet bolts to attach them to a 12" wide board (1x or 3/4" plywood) that is long enough to reach from front of the table to the fence; this jig then can be clamped down to the table for rips of any width that stay on the table. I mounted my Board Buddies onto a 4x4 that I clamp down full width to the table BEHIND the rip fence, which again offers me great setting options and is deployed without permanently affecting the RAS. These clamp-down jigs can easily be used in other configurations, like the video's panel-raising, with some forethought and careful aid construction.
6) Use a rip BOARD instead of a rip stick. This is simply a 1x6 that's about 16" long, laid flat on the table, with a finger-board/handle screwed along its back edge for grip. The rip board allows you to push both sides of the board simultaneously through the blade, so neither one can kick back. Yes, the board's leading edge gets consumed.
7) Hopefully your RAS still has it, but USE the rip pawls device! They work well. Some of them include a splitter, which can be fussy to correctly align with the blade, but is helpful once it's properly set up.
8) For rips, I like having a helper to catch and control the outfeed. Generally, I set up an outfeed roller or table so that the helper only prevents twisting/binding and offers some final traction to clear the last bit of the cut. On longgg rips, I might ask the helper to drop some wedges into the kerf.
9) On rips, the work ALWAYS feeds AGAINST the direction of the spinning teeth.
With my jigs, I am able to bevel rip or do any rips without much concern as to in-rip or out-rip, other than which setup is going to give my hands and vision the best clearance around/under the motor.