Home Made Table saw fence ideas? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 48 Old 12-06-2010, 06:53 AM
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Thanks to AJP:s generous sharing of old issues of Shop Notes I found an article in issue 50, page 30 http://www.mediafire.com/?d6pk0rg2i0o7urw about the Biesemeyer fence. Good explanation and drawings of the function. Perfect for anyone who wants to make his own.
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post #22 of 48 Old 12-06-2010, 09:23 AM
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Thanks Longknife for the link. Very good drawings.

Harrison, at your service!
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post #23 of 48 Old 12-06-2010, 02:59 PM
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i guess i'm the crazy one, but i like my jet-lock fence. keep it tweaked and it is trustworthy. my only complaint is the aluminum fence rail has bowed in slightly (1/32") over the years. anyone want to sell one?
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post #24 of 48 Old 12-06-2010, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you Longknife. Those drawings will come in very handy.

Of course power tools and alcohol don't mix. Everyone knows power tools aren't soluble in alcohol...

Last edited by ScottyB; 12-06-2010 at 05:07 PM. Reason: Eye kant spel sew gewd
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post #25 of 48 Old 12-31-2010, 09:29 PM
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Is there a way to put a micro adjustment on to this type of fence? (Biesemeyer clone)
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post #26 of 48 Old 01-02-2011, 04:33 PM
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Here are a couple of drawings, that might give you an idea.
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post #27 of 48 Old 01-02-2011, 05:30 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Beautiful Drawings Pirate!

Where did you "pirate" them from or did you draw these up from scratch? Nice work! I only see one issue, and that's the bolt that holds the rail to the angle at the bottom. If I recall the rail needs to be tapped and threaded since getting a bunch of nut down inside the rail and locating them might be a problem...unless there was a tapping strip/bar that was pre-drilled and spaced the same as the oversize holes in the rail and slipped in from one end...you think? bill

EDIT: 4 typos

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-04-2011 at 08:32 AM.
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post #28 of 48 Old 01-02-2011, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyB
My old Delta table saw has an old tube style fence. The fence rides on tubes on both sides of the table.
It works, but I don't trust this fence without checking it for square after each adjustment. This is just way too much of a PITA.
I have been toying with the idea of a different fence but didn't want to change the feel of the saw. I like the feel of using something that old. I have finally decided that the nostalgia of the old fence is not worth the hassle of measuring and squaring the fence each time. Unfortunately, even a 'cheap' fence seems to be cost prohibitive at around $180 in this financial climate.
I have been thinking about making my own fence using angle iron or aluminum and dressing it out with some wood. Has anyone else done this before? What did you do to provide adjustments for squaring? What else might I be missing on this? I already figured I would have to get some kind of tape to use as a rule. Still trying for figure out how I would clamp it in place but the idea is that it would be a T-square style fence.
Any ideas you guys have on this would be appreciated.



Scotty,
I have the exact same fence on my delta 34-307 i am currently going to smash and replace if i cant get this thing to work safely, and correctly.
Ranting aside, i am experiencing the same issue, and came up with a few repairs and ideas, some of which others have mentioned.....
1, i broke it down 100% yesterday to clean and reassembled after cleaning, that removed 70% of the misalignment. I can break the fence down again today and take pictures if you need. Oh, i also changed the direction of the lock handle to where i have to push down instead of up to lock it, and adjusted so that it takes 1/4" of movement to lock the fence, instead of full travel.
2. The main housing that rests on the front pipe, yup it does need a sleeve, there is just way to much slop in it. These old machines have 50/60 years of worn down cast metal, adding material is one of the only options. A brass sleeve, or other material in the front housing is needed. Period.
3. The rear "hook", there are replacements avaliable at sawcenter.com i believe, if replacement is not an option due to limited budget, a sleeve might do the trick to.
Though the process of reassembling this old saw and trying to make it work, both safely and reliably is a pain in my ***, one thing i was spending time on was that dumb fence.



Im attaching some pics, to show the slop in mine, also, I tried adding some 3/4" material to the fence, and beefing that up with the material helped a little as well.


The pics I took this morning are of the inside of the fence, I took it apart yesterday and wire-wheeled everything I could to clean up any rust, debris/etc. Though I stripped the fence 5 months ago and restored it, this weekend was the first time I used it, and that 5 months had seen more rust, and goop.


http://picasaweb.google.com/oldmacnut/DeltaAssembly#
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post #29 of 48 Old 01-02-2011, 09:11 PM
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Check this out. i might try it since i want to buy a welder anyway
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh....php?p=1588940
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post #30 of 48 Old 01-03-2011, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Where did you "pirate" them from or did you draw these up from scratch? Nice work! I only see one issue, and that's the bolt that holds the rail to the angle at the bottom. If I recall the rail need to be tapped and threaded since getting a bunch of nut down isdie the rail and locating them might be a problem...unless the was a tapping strip/bar that was pre-drilled and spaced the same as the oversize holes in the rail and slipped in from one end...you think? bill
I wish I could take credit for the plans. They were posted on one of the many threads on this topic.
I never made one myself.
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post #31 of 48 Old 01-04-2011, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydubya View Post
Check this out. i might try it since i want to buy a welder anyway
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh....php?p=1588940

That's the way all companies should make their fences. It wouldn't cost them that much more. Hell, angle iron is still cheap.

It's amazing how the woodworking world has been getting more into the metalworking world in the last few years.

Make it once, make it solid, make it out of steel.

But, if they did that; they wouldn't be able to sell replacement parts.

One of my old friends used to work for Rockwell International ; one day they brought him out some new blueprints. Some of the parts were going to be made out of nylon/plastic composites, instead of steel. This was back in the early 70s.

The equipment started wearing out faster, so the customer had to buy more tools and parts.

Seems like all companies are cheapening up their tools over the last 30 years+.

That's another thing I loved about Tool and Die work...we did not cheapen up anything.


They skimp on quality and accuracy...but the machine prices keep going up.

Harrison, at your service!
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post #32 of 48 Old 01-04-2011, 05:19 AM
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Scotty,
If you look at the sixth picture i posted you can see the end of the square tubing. When i attached the tubing to the angle i used self tapping screws 1/4". I think i used about twelve or fourteen of them to fasten the square tubing to the angle, it has stayed solid so far. If i had it to do again i would stitch weld the tube to the angle.
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post #33 of 48 Old 01-04-2011, 10:07 AM
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The Jet Lock fence is actually a very good fence but it may need adjusting and a part. It doesn't matter what fence you have, they all need to be checked for alignment frequently. Failure to do so can mean trouble for the operator and the lumber, never take fence alignment for granted.

There is a rubber bushing in the Jet Lock head next to the cam that engages when the handle is pushed down. These wear out and will knock the fence out when the lock is engaged, a pretty simple and inexpensive fix. You get to this bushing by removing the locking handle which is held by a pin, remove the cam and spring, the bushing is next to the cam.

Once the bushing is replaced, you can align the fence and make the necessary adjustments. First, make sure the fence rails are tight. The two hex head bolts on top of the fence are loosened to move the fence, then slowly tightened once the bar is aligned. Next you make adjustments to the locking sequence. This is the large straight slotted bolt head facing the locking handle. When adjusted correctly, there should be a double locking feel, first the cam on the front engages, then the back rail lock engages.

Personally, I prefer the Jet Lock to the newer T style fences. I replaced the Jet Lock on some older saws with both Unifences and Biesmeyer fences. Hate the Bies, cheap particle board, a pain to add auxiliary jigs and sacrificial fence boards to. I like the Unifence but it takes some holes and a locking nut in the fence channel to attach auxiliary items with. I don't like how easy it is to fail to engage the lock when the fence has been taken off and is replaced in the rail. It's just a small twist that engages the fence rail but you have to make sure you have it fully engaged.

I'm in the business and often run hundreds of multiples. Many times, I use a stock feeder. Having a fence that locks on both ends is important when using feeders. An unsecured fence end can be forced out of alignment by the pressure. You can spend a lot of money on a new fence if you want to but the Jet Lock can be adjusted to work correctly.
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post #34 of 48 Old 01-04-2011, 12:25 PM
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Hammer, the double locking feel makes perfect sense. I just got an old unisaw and am ready to install a new fence, but if this one can lock straight and true most of the time I will keep it. Is the bushing a delta part of something I can get from the hardware store?
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post #35 of 48 Old 01-04-2011, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garryswf View Post
Scotty,
If you look at the sixth picture i posted you can see the end of the square tubing. When i attached the tubing to the angle i used self tapping screws 1/4". I think i used about twelve or fourteen of them to fasten the square tubing to the angle, it has stayed solid so far. If i had it to do again i would stitch weld the tube to the angle.
I did take another look at it and it is looking more and more feasible to me. Did you buy that cam lock or did you grind that yourself out of an old hammer?

Of course power tools and alcohol don't mix. Everyone knows power tools aren't soluble in alcohol...
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post #36 of 48 Old 01-04-2011, 05:30 PM
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Scotty,
No hammer was harmed during the construction of this project . I used a piece of 1x2x10 bar stock, traced out what i thought it should look like then used a thin cutting wheel on my grinder to get it close to the shape i wanted then ground it to smooth the edges, for the final touch a good ole fashion file finished the job . WoodnThings guided me somewhat on the camlock.
OMT-if you decide to take this project on i reccomend drilling the off center hole before shaping the camlock handle.

Last edited by garryswf; 01-04-2011 at 05:34 PM.
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post #37 of 48 Old 01-04-2011, 10:32 PM
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post #38 of 48 Old 01-05-2011, 02:24 AM
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Thanks Steve, excellent information!

Harrison, at your service!
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post #39 of 48 Old 01-05-2011, 08:13 AM
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Just some early caffeine induced rambling........for those where enough is never enough.


Fence with quick connect air coupling.....one of those coiled hoses coming up from TS's cabmet area.This connects to underside of fence where it rides on rail.Shop air @ 125#

In use theres two air cylinders,fore & aft on fence.Their default position is closed so IOWs the fence is locked.Of course this is adj via mini regulator mounted to TS's cabmet.

Now I want to move fence...pushing button(convieneintly located so its in the perfect place)unlocks air cyl.....but now for the good part....when the cyls open theres also air jets built into bttm of fence that open.This cases an ever so slight lift to whole fence;an air ride of sorts.Making moving fence a breeze haha.

But above is just because of laziness.....to really propel this wonder fence into the next level we need a DRO(digital read out)up about sightline high.Simple addition really....they're so easy to hook up even I can do it.Back to regular programming,BW
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post #40 of 48 Old 01-05-2011, 10:30 AM
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The rubber bushing is stepped. I don't know if you will find anything similar at a hardware store but replacements are available through Delta repair shops. The bushing may be OK, take a look first. If it's cracked or missing, the locking cam will not function correctly.
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