Help Identify UNISAW 3hp - Photos Inisde - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-17-2016, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
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Help Identify UNISAW 3hp - Photos Inisde

A seller is offering this Unisaw Platinum Edition about 45 minutes away for $750. I'm not going to pay that, was thinking more $600.

The seller works odd hours so I was texting with the wife today and got the pictures texted to me below. They think it's a 36" model. I cannot find any Platinum Edition thats a 36" model. Also, looks like the extension piece to the right of the blade is missing. I asked and they likely dont have it.

It has the bessy fence. I don't have a definitive model #. They said 36-944 or 36-955. Either of those are 50" fences models.

What can you tell from the photos? Also, price was, is $600 a good deal? I'll have to add $100 and get a mobile base for my garage.

Oh and its 220 and the seller has that for the dryer however the plug is different soooooo I cannot power it on. Not helping in the sale for me.






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post #2 of 15 Old 08-17-2016, 02:39 AM
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I have one that is not that new, no way would I sell mine for $750. If you can get that one for $750, if it were me, I would jump on it. I am not you but that saw will be the last one you will ever need. You will for sure want to run it 220 though.

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post #3 of 15 Old 08-17-2016, 07:02 AM
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That is worth every penny of $750.

That has a great fence, two cast extension wings, and the overhead blade guard/dust collection.
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-17-2016, 07:59 AM
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$750.00 may be a good price however from what I can see the front rail for the Biesemeyer fence is missing. I would consider the cost in replacing that part in the value. Who knows, perhaps the seller still has it.

Personally I don't care for the overhead guard. It doesn't look easily removable and you couldn't cut any sheet stock wider than about 24".
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-17-2016, 09:45 AM
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Funny, as I was looking for the Excalibur guard, I found your post over on Lumberjocks...

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/175602
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-17-2016, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Had to take the girlfriend her work computer and drove another 20min to look at the saw. Glad I did.

The excalibur guard/dust collector does is not for this saw. Sure it can work for it BUT this Unisaw had the Delta/Besseimeyer overarm guard already on it.

No splitter/riving knife. It has the quick release pull knob for one but didnt see it in the garage.

No Front rail or front rail guide so the fence is just laying on top of the saw.

Raising and lower the blade made some noise. Sure some oil would help.

Not sure I want to source an extension cord adapter so I can test it. Adding a front rail/guide and mobile base is gonna be $300 + likely
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-17-2016, 03:38 PM
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It appears the seller just used the saw for ripping solid stock so perhaps didn't need the full width of the table. After a second look not only was the front rail missing the table extension is also missing. It's only wood though and a poor design anyway. I'm sure you could fabricate something better.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-17-2016, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Missing the splitter and front guide tube. Has the angle iron pieces and fence.

a 1/8" thick 4ft piece of 2x3" steel tubing is like $25. Wonder if making my own guide rail would be hard. The angle iron is already there so lining up the holes should be easy....I would think.

First order is figure out how to plug it in. It's a 3 prong with two of the prongs flat (horizontal) which wont plug into their dryer outlet which is 3 prong (2 angled and 1 L).
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-17-2016, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychbiker View Post
Missing the splitter and front guide tube. Has the angle iron pieces and fence.

a 1/8" thick 4ft piece of 2x3" steel tubing is like $25. Wonder if making my own guide rail would be hard. The angle iron is already there so lining up the holes should be easy....I would think.

First order is figure out how to plug it in. It's a 3 prong with two of the prongs flat (horizontal) which wont plug into their dryer outlet which is 3 prong (2 angled and 1 L).
Are you planning on using that plug in your shop, if so pick an outlet up among with a dryer cable, attach outlet to cable and try out the saw at the sellers place.

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post #10 of 15 Old 08-17-2016, 07:11 PM
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If you don't run the dryer at the same time as the saw you should be able to draw power off that plug and install an appropriate 240v receptacle for the saw.

The 2"x3" steel tubing is bolted from the inside out. I've never had mine apart, the bolts may be glued or welded to the tubing. Might be simpler to weld the tubing to the angle. The tubing also has a flat tape measure glued to the topside so you can set the dimension by the fence instead of measuring it. I'm sure a replacement tape would be easily obtained.
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-18-2016, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
If you don't run the dryer at the same time as the saw you should be able to draw power off that plug and install an appropriate 240v receptacle for the saw.

The 2"x3" steel tubing is bolted from the inside out. I've never had mine apart, the bolts may be glued or welded to the tubing. Might be simpler to weld the tubing to the angle. The tubing also has a flat tape measure glued to the topside so you can set the dimension by the fence instead of measuring it. I'm sure a replacement tape would be easily obtained.
Just drill the angle and thread the holes in the tubing for bolts, start with oversize holes at each end and center, so you can get tube lined up parallel to angle. Now drill holes through both at internvals and tap to lock it in place. Tube doesn't need to be exactly parallel, just straight.

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post #12 of 15 Old 08-18-2016, 01:56 PM
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Which angle is there?

Quote:
Originally Posted by psychbiker View Post
Missing the splitter and front guide tube. Has the angle iron pieces and fence.

a 1/8" thick 4ft piece of 2x3" steel tubing is like $25. Wonder if making my own guide rail would be hard. The angle iron is already there so lining up the holes should be easy....I would think.


This photo shows the rear angle, not the front. You need a 2" x 3" angle which mounts to the saw table and which holds the 2" X 3" hollow tube "rail" on which the fence locks and slides. The rail must be spaced about 1/2" away from the angle to allow for the fence to slide. The angle goes on first to allow for access to it's attachment bolts. The rail sits on the angle and fastens up from the bottom with bolts into threaded holes in the rail:

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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-18-2016 at 01:59 PM.
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post #13 of 15 Old 08-18-2016, 09:43 PM
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Just drill the angle and thread the holes in the tubing for bolts, start with oversize holes at each end and center, so you can get tube lined up parallel to angle. Now drill holes through both at internvals and tap to lock it in place. Tube doesn't need to be exactly parallel, just straight.
I thought about that but the sidewall on tubular is so thin you wouldn't get many threads in it. I was afraid the threads would strip out and the bolts would start falling out.
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-19-2016, 12:20 AM
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I thought about that but the sidewall on tubular is so thin you wouldn't get many threads in it. I was afraid the threads would strip out and the bolts would start falling out.
Looking at Bill's photo there are enough threads holding if the bolts aren't over torqued, drop of loctite would be good insurance.

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post #15 of 15 Old 08-19-2016, 04:23 AM Thread Starter
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Well I couldnt pass it up actually. My dad and I made a cord to power it on. The seller never turned it on. He got it from a cabinet maker. The cabinet maker installed a keyed switch on the front the seller thought was another outlet. Plugged it in and it wouldnt start. Seller didnt have the keyÖ...sooooo we just cut both sets of wires leading into the keyed switch and then twist locked the wires together.

Fired up and sounded great. Minimal vibration. Was asking $750. I offered $650 because I need to get a 2◊3 steel tube for the rail. He had guys calling to see it while I was there. We settled on $700 butÖ.. That includes an excalibur over arm guard/dust collector the seller didnt even know extends out. Also includes a Biesemeyer over arm T-square blade guard (the clear guard piece is cracked). Iíll likely sell one of them, not sure which.

No splitter though. It does have the Biesemeyer quick release white mount for one. Not sure what Iíll do splitter riving knife wise.

I did see a splitter like this laying around but it wouldnt mount and I figured it was for an older Delta 2hp unisaw that said Ďarbor pressí on the front. I think it could bolt but requires mounting it on the back and using a rod and bracket that around there.



Iím heading to Woodcraft tomorrow morning, an hour away, to get there Woodriver Mobile Base Kit. I want to unload this from my truck directly onto a mobile base. Iíd like to get my 2◊3 steel tubing but donít know how long I need. I plan making it a 36Ē model for space reasons, not sure what that means total length front tube.

He had a front rail on the side yard that was from the other saw I checked for hole alignment and it fit too.
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