Grizzly 14" Bandsaw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-28-2016, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Grizzly 14" Bandsaw

So for Christmas I got a beautiful anniversary edition grizzly bandsaw. The main problem thus far is that center cutout on the table where the blade goes. Are those things designed to be chipped? Does that hurt the blade? I was trying to do some curves last night in a 2x4 and there was a spark or two and then I noticed a couple jagged holes that my blade had cut into the table insert from slightly twisting. My bandsaw came with two inserts, and the narrow one was installed. There is a wider one, but I have yet to find a concrete answer about the use for a wider center insert hole. Should I keep using the same insert? Is that normal? I am relatively new to bandsaws and the Grizzly support has yet to respond to my questions.

Thanks guys

Chris
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post #2 of 13 Old 12-28-2016, 10:24 AM
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The blade should not contact the insert......

It shouldn't contact, but sometimes it does. AS a new bandsaw user, here's some tips. Get a radius chart for your blades. The chart will show how tight a raduis that width blade will make. The wider the blade, the larger the radius needs to be:



The next issue may be that your side guides are too far away from the blade allowing it to twist excessively. There should be just a small gap between the blade and the side guides, about a folded dollar bill for the gap. Check the undertable guides especially.

Finally, if your feed rate is too fast to allow the blade to "make it's own way" through the material, you will have issues and the blade will not cut correctly. Slow and easy is btter than too much, too fast.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 13 Old 12-28-2016, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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I was thinking about the side guides. They might be too far apart. Is that something that is typically adjustable? I didn't see anything that was labeled for changing that gap. I am pretty sure the blade was twisting more than it should.
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post #4 of 13 Old 12-28-2016, 01:19 PM
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and keep the upper blade guide elevated <1" from the wood.
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post #5 of 13 Old 12-28-2016, 03:04 PM
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First thing to do is take a break and watch this video, second thing is to tune it up as he suggests:


Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #6 of 13 Old 12-28-2016, 05:02 PM
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As far as your insert question goes, no they arent meant to be chipped, and whether or not youve damaged your blade depends on what the insert is made of. Brass, aluminium or zamak would all be relatively safe, all three of those are softer than steel so while cutting through them isnt a great idea, its not likely to hurt the blade. Unfortunately if you saw sparks than the inserts are probably steel, which you really dont want to hit with a c=wood cutting blade. Shouldnt be that bad i you only nicked a tooth or two, but not something you wanna get in the habit of

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post #7 of 13 Old 12-28-2016, 08:27 PM
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Obviously, the side guides are adjustable and should be for each blade, just part of the routine of changing a blade. Whether you damaged the blade or not if it was the one that came with the saw it should be thrown away anyway and a good blade bought to replace it.
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-28-2016, 09:41 PM
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Grizzly has How To Videos....


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-29-2016, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huxleywood View Post
Obviously, the side guides are adjustable and should be for each blade, just part of the routine of changing a blade. Whether you damaged the blade or not if it was the one that came with the saw it should be thrown away anyway and a good blade bought to replace it.
When you say a good blade, do you mean any brand in particular? Like, I went on Grizzly's website and found some of their blades for purchase, but since they provided the 3/8th " blade that came with my bandsaw, won't that be just the same quality as what I have now? I need a 93 1/2 length blade, I want to get one for straight cuts and one for smaller curves.
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post #10 of 13 Old 12-29-2016, 07:23 PM
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so many blade choices now....

Grizzly has 2 line of bandsaw blades, their own brand and the Timberwolf line. I use the Timberwolf blades and haven't triwe3d other brands except Craftsman. I do like the Timberwolf best. I weld my own blades that are under 3/4" wide with an electric resistance welder with good results from Starrett and Lenox roll stock because it is so much cheaper for me with 6 different bandsaws.

For resawing and other straight line ripping you want a blade with 3 TPI. like this:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/93-1...ce=grizzly.com

For other types of sawing avoid a blade with more than 6 TPI for wood.

Other 93.5" blades from Grizzly:
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2016/main/119?p=119

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #11 of 13 Old 12-29-2016, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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So Timberwolf would be good huh? I am curious, you said avoid TPI over 6, but I am working on shaping a stock for a crossbow and I want the cut to be smooth as possible, so wouldnt higher TPI be better? I also have to do both straight and curved cuts, and some of the cuts are really, REALLY tight. I was thinking that a 3/8th blade might be too big for smaller curves, but I don't really know how well it does because my guides were not set up right when I first tried using it for curves. I wanted to avoid having to throw out the cash for 2 different blades but from what I see, I need to at least have a thinner blade for curves, and I probably shouldn't try using the same smaller blade for straight cuts.
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post #12 of 13 Old 12-29-2016, 08:36 PM
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TPI depends somewhat on thickness

For the tightest radii you could use a 1/4" wide blade with 10 TPI for thicknesses under 2". The more teeth the greater chance of the blade clogging and overheating. I would get a spindle sander for your bow work without a doubt because there will always be tooth marks to sand out. My El Cheapo Menards OSS was under $100.00 and works great. Harbor Freight has the same one for around $100.00 on sale.

You will find that the different tools/machines are their purpose as you get into more specialized operations. I have had my OSS for about 3 years after 50 years of woodworking without one.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #13 of 13 Old 12-29-2016, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chughes10 View Post
So Timberwolf would be good huh? I am curious, you said avoid TPI over 6, but I am working on shaping a stock for a crossbow and I want the cut to be smooth as possible, so wouldnt higher TPI be better? I also have to do both straight and curved cuts, and some of the cuts are really, REALLY tight. I was thinking that a 3/8th blade might be too big for smaller curves, but I don't really know how well it does because my guides were not set up right when I first tried using it for curves. I wanted to avoid having to throw out the cash for 2 different blades but from what I see, I need to at least have a thinner blade for curves, and I probably shouldn't try using the same smaller blade for straight cuts.
Higher TPI doesnt mean cleaner cut, not always. Higher tooth counts mean that theres going to be more teeth engaged in the material at a given thickness, which results in each tooth taking a smaller bite. Higher tooth count blades are great for thin (1/8-1/2, maybe) materials, where a low tpi blade (3tpi say) runs the risk of blowing out the bottom of the cut because each tooth is taking too big a 'bite'.

On the other end of the equation, if you use a really fine tooth count blade on really thick materials, say 18tpi on 2 inch thick hardwood, you have too many teeth in contact with the material, the saw bogs down and the teeth cant evacuate the sawdust fast enough, so you get a crappy cut.

Best results come from matching the blade to the application. Timberwolf has a pretty solid blade selection chart here:
http://timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php

Stick fairly close to those recommendations and you should be good. You can certainly stretch them, ive used an 18tpi 1/8 blade on 2" material, and a 2tpi 1/2 blade on 1/8" material. Dont recommend either of those options though. If you want a jack-of-all-trades blade, a 1/4 wide blade with 4-6tpi will serve you well

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