So Timberwolf would be good huh? I am curious, you said avoid TPI over 6, but I am working on shaping a stock for a crossbow and I want the cut to be smooth as possible, so wouldnt higher TPI be better? I also have to do both straight and curved cuts, and some of the cuts are really, REALLY tight. I was thinking that a 3/8th blade might be too big for smaller curves, but I don't really know how well it does because my guides were not set up right when I first tried using it for curves. I wanted to avoid having to throw out the cash for 2 different blades but from what I see, I need to at least have a thinner blade for curves, and I probably shouldn't try using the same smaller blade for straight cuts.
Higher TPI doesnt mean cleaner cut, not always. Higher tooth counts mean that theres going to be more teeth engaged in the material at a given thickness, which results in each tooth taking a smaller bite. Higher tooth count blades are great for thin (1/8-1/2, maybe) materials, where a low tpi blade (3tpi say) runs the risk of blowing out the bottom of the cut because each tooth is taking too big a 'bite'.
On the other end of the equation, if you use a really fine tooth count blade on really thick materials, say 18tpi on 2 inch thick hardwood, you have too many teeth in contact with the material, the saw bogs down and the teeth cant evacuate the sawdust fast enough, so you get a crappy cut.
Best results come from matching the blade to the application. Timberwolf has a pretty solid blade selection chart here:
Stick fairly close to those recommendations and you should be good. You can certainly stretch them, ive used an 18tpi 1/8 blade on 2" material, and a 2tpi 1/2 blade on 1/8" material. Dont recommend either of those options though. If you want a jack-of-all-trades blade, a 1/4 wide blade with 4-6tpi will serve you well